Cause for bubbles in the filler tank and overheating?

[TB2]

Oh dear maybe I should've listened to you and insisted on the head being pressure tested. I picked it up today and I asked the guy if everything was all right and he seemed sure that the head was in good condition. They had removed the camshaft and the swirl chambers and fitted new rings upon refitting the camshaft. Here are a few pictures;


They cleaned it well I guess...






Did I spot a crack here? It's so small I'm not sure...


Do I need to do something about these valve seals? One of them seems kinda rough:


And one of the inserts is more cracked than I thought, it has a little bulge inside


In the end, I'm asking myself if I've been scammed by the engine people or if they just didn't look close enough...

A question about the bolts. I received the parts from Oscar today and the bolts are different than my old ones. Are they okay? One of the old bolts was really rusty but I'm very sure that the water came in through one of the bolts on the inlet manifold, and not the head although I cannot be sure, really.




By the way, what's the point of this? (cam belt side, on the front of the head)


I'm feeling kinda queasy, the work they did wasn't exactly cheap.

[mat_fenwick]

A question about the bolts. I received the parts from Oscar today and the bolts are different than my old ones. Are they okay? One of the old bolts was really rusty but I'm very sure that the water came in through one of the bolts on the inlet manifold, and not the head although I cannot be sure, really.

If memory serves me correctly the hex headed bolts are the earlier, non-stretch type whereas the new ones are stretch bolts. Different (simpler) torquing up procedure with them - you don't have to re-torque after you've run the engine up to temperature for a start. What is the length of the new bolts?

By the way, what's the point of this? (cam belt side, on the front of the head)

On some installations of this engine (or variants of it) the plain blanking plate is substituted for one with a hose outlet - I believe that was to help with coolant bleeding.

[Way2go]

A question about the bolts. I received the parts from Oscar today and the bolts are different than my old ones. Are they okay? One of the old bolts was really rusty but I'm very sure that the water came in through one of the bolts on the inlet manifold, and not the head although I cannot be sure, really.

Are these bolts interchangeable between old & new types?

The thread on that Torx bolt looks much finer than the old hex bolts if the camera is not misleading

[toddao]

Carl, that place you went in Singen came highly recommended, they do lots of high-end stuff and they've been there 70 years. I'm sure they wouldn't have scammed you.
The opinion seems to be that the head gasket was blowing and there was definate water ingress. I'm sure once you re-assemble and bleed - carefully - everything will be fine.

[mat_fenwick]

Sorry, the bolt head does NOT dictate what type of bolt (stretch or non) it is - rather the spiral grooving (is this what you mean by a coarser thread Way2go?) on the shank according to the Haynes manual. From the photos it appears as though stretch bolts were originally fitted (introduced in 1986 so makes sense) and the replacements non stretch. I'm sure I've seen aftermarket bolts, marked as stretch bolts which don't have the spirals though, just to confuse matters!
The changeover to Torx heads was apparently in 1989. Stretch and non stretch are interchangeable (as a full set) but obviously must be torqued correctly depending on the type.