Rapid LHM Loss

[jeremy]

As you've found out BX struts are prone to failure - and if you look on this board - semi-siezure is a very common problem. This is a shame as it looks a well made component and in fact you can overhaul the things if you can get the bits - and if yours is not too worn.

Your problem with second hand ones is that the one you get may be little better than the one you have. I can vouch as to the enormous improvement in the ride given by new struts!

All BX struts are interchangeable and Xantia ones (which are constructed more like a conventional shockabsorber - and are much more reliable but can't be overhauled) may fit. The person who knows all about this is AndersDK who occasionally visits this board and can be found on the Frenchcarforum board. I think there is a post somewhere dealing with this point.

The Pleiades strut is probably overhauled as is most of their gear. They have a good reputation for knowledge and workmanship.

[ken newbold]

I agree, new or recon struts are a better propersition, but it depends on the value of your car. You can soon spend more than the car is worth buying new parts.
I find struts very easy to change and if you can get hold of any, I would prefer to try this route rather than paying out for new. Most yards will accept returns if they are no good.

[Way2go]

As you've found out BX struts are prone to failure - and if you look on this board - semi-siezure is a very common problem. This is a shame as it looks a well made component .

The shame of this failure is that the struts operated nicely with no sticking or groaning and had a smooth operation. This is why I was surprised at such a sudden and disastrous failure. I had always carried LHM in the boot "just in case" and mistakenly believed this would be sufficient to enable me to limp home if I got an LHM leak. When I had a leak in the front to back high pressure lhm line I lost nothing like this quantity of fluid and I could have managed that leak and got the car home.
I have a suspicion that the strut may have sunk a little due to stiffness of the height corrector linkage, maybe this contributed, I must try and find a remedy for this as oil and grease alone along with a shaking do not seem to have sorted this problem and the car had needed a boost to intermediate to clear the convex pavement between driveway and road when starting away.

[jeremy]

Way2go has sent me a message on this subject and for completeness I post most of my rely (with minor editing)

A couple of points have occurred to me:

Are you certain the LHM is leaking from the return pipes/manifold on the side of the strut and not coming above? A post on the Citroen Z site reminded me that the top of the strut is sealed by 2 'O' rings and if these fail LHM will either go upwards or downwards. New rings do NOT come supplied with a genuine Citroen strut and while I have a good supply of 'O' rings for emergencies mine seemed thicker than those used by Citroen and so I re-used the old ones against my better judgment. They have held.

The strut top nut is quite tight and doesn't give way easily. The problem is that it twists against the rubber strut top mount and I don't know how strong this is. The strut is provided with a hexagonal socket for holding it but of course you can't use this with a socket. Eventually I put a block of wood between the sphere and the bodywork and hoped for the best - and got away with it.

I can't remember if a ring spanner will fit. I do remember looking for something and finding an open ended spanner for £20 and giving up then. I recall my friendly accessory shop lent me a new stock 36mm socket and remember cleaning it with thinners before returning it!

I don't possess a copper hammer and don't recall using any substantial force to remove the strut from the hub carrier. What you do need to do is to remove the clamp bolt and expand the socket by levering the 2 sides of the clamp apart. This (and perhaps a gentle tap or two but no real force) should free the strut which lifts out. I can't see how you would use a copper hammer as you can't get at the bottom of the strut as the lower wishbone and the driveshaft are in the way.

[ken newbold]

Tell me if I am wrong, but I've never taken the top nut off the strut, I just undo the 3 13mm nuts, remove the sphere and drop the whole lot through the inner wing. Replace in reverse order and the whole job done in 15 mins

I know other people take the top off, but why I 've seen them in the yards this way.

Someone please tell me why

[jeremy]

In my case - the new strut from GSF came without the rubber mount - so it had to come apart.

[Way2go]

Jeremy,

Yes the leak is coming from the return pipe because even though I popped the ends back the fixed pipes, one of the pipes has two punctures since flapping around and fluid was peeing out of these punctures and did not stop even when the strut raised to intermediate height. I must have lost half of the 1 litre I put in the reservoir inside 3-5 mins. I could not see a leak from above apart from drips where the return pipe had sprayed upwards as the punctures are near the top bend.

Copper faced hammer was recommended by a Citroen Independent that I have used and who is a really helpful guy but unfortunately too far away from me. This is to tap the hub carrier from above while holding the strut in your hand to separate it after loosening the clamp.

Ken,

The replacement strut from all the after market places does not seem to include the sphere carrier and gaiter but does include new return pipes. I don’t know whether the genuine Citroen Dealer part does but it costs a staggering £245-00 +vat.

Haynes does not seem to offer the needed procedure for this job.
For info this is the procedure the Citroen trained mechanic advised me:

1) Loosen the 36mm nut on top but do not remove it. A breaker bar is almost certain to be needed as they are tight.

2) Disconnect the two return pipes from the fixed pipes.

3) Undo the clamp nut at the base of the strut.

4) With suspension on low, compress the strut.

5) Remove the loosened top nut while holding the strut below in your hand.

6) Give the hub carrier a sharp tap or two from above with the copper faced hammer to separate the strut from the carrier (while holding the strut).

7) The strut should now be able to be eased out of the gaiter which will remain on the car.

(8)) Refit new strut into gaiter align and secure top nut and bottom clamp and reconnect return pipes.

I am told an hour to an hour and a half for the job but as a novice and nervously proceeding I expect it may take me a little longer. However if I am then able to drive the car home .


Regards,
Way2go

[Way2go]

Well, the strut has arrived from pleides and with transport/assistance kindly being provided by brother-in-law I am off to do the roadside removal and refitting of this unit this afternoon. Will use the procedure given above. Any last tips or wrinkles anyone would like to offer?