Sudden LHM leak from rear

[ken newbold]

I'm sure the last ones I bought came complete with the boot and clip already fitted.
However, I recommend removing the boot and examine the piston inside the cylinder for signs of rust or anything else that may damage the seals. I have an almost new cylinder here taken off a BX that was passing loads of fluid back through the returns, on examination, it must have been stood on a shelf somewhere for a couple of years and a rust spot built up on the piston, first time the piston goes in rips a groove in the seals

Also get some WD40 or diesel on the R Clip that goes through the arm at the bottom. These can be a bugger to get out.

[DLM]

I stand corrected. Apart from Ken's advice above, I checked today with someone who's got a couple of new estate rear struts, and they most certainly do come with both boot and clip. This makes most of my comments redundant.

[Rob_e (UK)]

Well the cylinder turned up from Eurocarparts, it was in a citroen box so looks like it's a genuine Citroen one and did turn up with boot and clip all in place; I removed the boot and had a look as suggested and it all looked clean and shiny, the piston was pushed in pretty much as far as I think it is supposed to go already.

Trying to remove the old one from the car is proving to be a little difficult though, first I had the problem of getting the rear on axle stands when I couldn't raise the suspension higher than normal height; I managed to get round this by reversing it part way up some drive up ramps and then lowering the suspension from normal to low to transfer the weight on to the axle stands.

The clip at the bottom of the suspension rod came out quite easily, although it had been left over night covered in WD40, which makes a nice change.

My problem though is the hydraulic union going into the cylinder which does not seem to want to move at all. I couldn't find a pipe spanner in 8mm so got one meant for bleed nipples etc, a ring spanner that grips on the flats of the nut, and used a grinder to put an opening in the end big enough to let the pipe fit through; but this still didn't seem to grip the union properly and it just slips rather than turning the union.
I also tried pointed nose mole grips but they just slip as well. Any ideas how I can shift it. I am assuming that I am probably going to have to find a replacement pipe as the union is going to be far to mangled to reuse. But even if I cut the pipe off it doesn't look like the cylinder will come free of the sub frame with the union still screwed into the cylinder. Is this the case?

Also what is the springy thing in the rear subframe above the cylinder, circled in red below? Haynes doesn't mention it in the instructions for removing the cylinder; does it hold the cylinder in place? Once I finally get the pipe union removed do I just push the cylinder down through the subframe to get it out (the rod clip is already removed).



Thanks in advance,
Rob

[ken newbold]

The spring clip hold the odd shaped plate in place. If you put your fingers along the top of the cylinder housing, you should be able to feel the tip of it sticking upwards. press it down to release and withdraw it back through the plate.

With the plate loose, you may be able to get a better grip on the union, I use a very good pair of vice grips. If all else fails, cut the pipe off and grind/chisel/cut off the union anyway possible.

Always better and quicker to fit a new pipe when changing these. The new pipes are available ready made and cheap enough. Or I'm sure someone on here can make you one up.

[DLM]

I've done exactly what you describe with a "closed" 8/10mm brake-bleeding spanner, Rob - though it never hurts to have a couple of alternatives. The union sounds a goner to me, so the pipe will pobably have to be sacrificed. Citroen should be able to supply a replacement, even if non-one else can. I stashed a couple of spare pipes from scrappers but where they are at the moment is anyone's guess. I'd recommend you do invest in at least one decent open-ended 8mm spanner for the unions that do want to play ball in future.

Surprisingly enough, I found one in the Halfords professional range which is long enough for useful leverage. Laser do a set of super-thin open-ended spanners which I'd recommend to anyone, and the 8/9mm is a goodie. I ended up buying a couple of sets, and cutting the "spare" 8/9mm and 12/13mm in half to use in a very confined space when removing a very leaky flowdis. I then discovered it's all much more straightforward if you bite the bullet and remove the radiator first...
However, the cut-down spanners have proved their worth several times since in other confined spaces.

[AndersDK]

95.595.684 HYDRAULIC TUBE 89.45 DKK (equals approx £8.00) exvat at your friendly dealer.
The pipe connects from the 4way "K" union to the RHS rear suspension cylinder.

Also available :
5272.07 CYLINDER STOP (The retaining plate on the photo) approx £10exvat
5272.10 CYLINDER PIN (the weirdo dual spring on photo) approx £1.50exvat
5272.09 CYLINDER PIN (cylinder rod retaining clip) approx £1.00exvat

morale : SOME genuine parts are indeed cheap enough to just "CUT and play"

NOTE : there is a bend piece of steelsheet acting as a spacer behind the retaining plate. This is no longer available as sparepart. But very simple to DIY as homework.

[citronut]

it is tight but possible to ease the plate past the union once you have cut the pipe off as close to the nut as you can, and as the susp unit is scrap you will not need to remove the union at all appart from maybe salvageing the pipe seal


ps.
Anders i have never seen any spacer behind the retaining plate, have you any picys
regards malcolm

[Rob_e (UK)]

I finally managed to get the car back on the road at the weekend. Pleiades make up the pipe to order so I got one from there, £11 but they said it was cupuro nickel instead of steel so would not rust.
I cut the pipe off and managed to get the plate past the union, but in the end had to try and cut the union as well to get the cylinder out of the subframe. Not easy to cut though with the subframe shielding it.
Just to really make things worse when I finally got the new one in, I went to start the car to check for leaks only to find I had a flat battery
Still in the end I got it started and all seems to be well for the moment. Below is a picture of the old strut, quite a small hole considering the mess it made



I did notice while I was under the car that the area around the rear height corrector was not completely dry. Does this mean that is likely to go suddenly? I thought hieght correctors tended to become sticky when they failed rather than leak
Are there seals or anything that can be replaced in a height corrector?

Thanks everyone for all the help.
Rob

[citronut]

first thing to check when a H/C is wet/ damp is the short rubber pipe with ther plastic trickle return comming from it, when this pipe splits you can usualy cut a bit off
regards malcolm