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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 3:28 pm
by Dollywobbler
I certainly wouldn't have taken this on if it was a later BX. With one of those, there's the option of just waiting for a better one to come along. Not really an issue here.

I imagine using a Mk2 shell would be a horrific job. So much would have to change! I'll stick to my plan of getting it on the road (new rad, timing belt, maybe water pump and hopefully not any piping), then start tackling the bodywork bit by bit. I'm keen to save as much of the car as possible - though I've been working on that rear wing today, and it really is f*cked!

Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 4:38 pm
by Rich
Excellent find Ian :D

Can't wait to see it in the metal.... The 2CVGB National???? :shock: :lol: :wink:

Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 4:49 pm
by Dollywobbler
Sorry Rich, Elly the 2CV gets the nod for the National. Stratford on the other hand...

I've had the BX up in the air today, so I can see what's what. Generally, she seems very solid - with evidence of very strong patches in important places. Floors are perhaps a touch crunchy in places but I'm hoping its good enough for the MOT.

With the MOT in mind, I've been attending to trivial matters such as a blown numberplate bulb and non-working screenwash (empty bottle) as well as checking the condition of the brakes (a little rusty but fine and working) and other MOT essentials.

The front brakes seem to be dragging a little, but that might be gearbox drag, as my previous BX felt exactly the same to be honest. LHM level seems low - I've put nearly a litre in and I think it's still too low. Suspension is rising nicely though, and the PAS feels as it should.

Did discover that apparently you can turn the main beam on even when you're on sidelights! Confused me for many moments as I couldn't work out why switching to sidelights still left the headlamps on.

The RH front tyre went down over night. It looks very perished. Will drop the spare and see what that's like, though a pair of Hankooks is probably the answer - if not four. Unless anyone's got some 165s going cheap? Would prefer to avoid a big tyre bill until another pay day.

Another quirk - the hazard warning lights only seem to work with the ignition on. Surely that's not right? The indicators flash very slowly too, so perhaps the relay is U/S.

Soon after starting, there is what seems like steam coming from the LH rear corner of the engine. I'm guessing that's coolant pipes. Doesn't seem to have much aroma to it - the cooling system is mostly filled with plain water at the moment due to the leaky rad.

Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 6:26 pm
by Dollywobbler
Quick thanks to the previous owner, Shaun, who's just called me to let me know that most of the pipework has been replaced with cupro-nickel stuff. Seems he's a 'lurker' here. Glad you found us Shaun and thanks!

Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:05 pm
by Tim Leech
Ian you have the only RHD Mk1 estate in the UK that I know off, yes it will cost you a a bit get it right and take some time BUT its the only one left so good luck, I will let you have as many spare Mk1 bits that I dont need.

Give me a month or two to get sorted but I have a useable passenger door, and wing, set of seats, mirrors and a few other odds and sods.

Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:36 pm
by toddao
D'Wobbler wrote
most of the pipework has been replaced with cupro-nickel stuff.
=D>

yer winning already! Saved you a one-way ticket to hell and back!


Tim wrote
Ian you have the only RHD Mk1 estate in the UK

could be the only RHD Mk.1 estate in the universe?

Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:00 pm
by Tim Leech
toddao wrote:D'Wobbler wrote
most of the pipework has been replaced with cupro-nickel stuff.
=D>

yer winning already! Saved you a one-way ticket to hell and back!


Tim wrote
Ian you have the only RHD Mk1 estate in the UK

could be the only RHD Mk.1 estate in the universe?


Not sure! Im sure I saw one at an Irish farm not long ago on here!

Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:21 am
by toddao
Im sure I saw one at an Irish farm not long ago on here!
I think we can assume that that one will soon be part of the soil on which it sits! Though I reckon it could still give up a few parts for the cause..

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:40 am
by Dollywobbler
Found the RP number. It relates to a build date in October 1985. So, was that the date it left the Citroen factory as a saloon or the date that Heuliez completed the build? It wasn't registered until April 1986 - two months ahead of my 2CV.

Unfortunately, I have discovered that the Mk1 BX appears to share its horn with the 2CV. Meep!

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 1:13 pm
by Wooscary
Dollywobbler wrote:
Unfortunately, I have discovered that the Mk1 BX appears to share its horn with the 2CV. Meep!
Mine's like that though too, I struggle to hear it inside the car, let alone outside. It is kind of cute though.

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 1:51 pm
by Dollywobbler
Well, my last BX made a gentle parp, this one definitely goes meep.

Got the 185 tyres fitted today, which will hopefully hold air rather better than the tyre I removed. LHM level seems to be dropping though, but I haven't found a leak yet...

Have been discovering and treating some rot. This'll have to cope with a skim of filler until I can afford to get the 'screen out for proper repairs. I fear that'll be expensive!
Image

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:04 pm
by Philip Chidlow
Ian, Philippe at Medway posted on the CCC site.

Probably not much use to you? But he might have other Mk.1 bits - as Tim will attest. Pricey though!

mk1 switch gear for sale.


hello

I have some old mk 1 switch gear for sale for £5 a switch, plus I would guess £2 postage, or pick up from Chatham, Kent.

The switches are.

Heated rear screen (blue)
Hazard warning switch (blue)
Heated rear screen (grey)
Horn switch (blue)
Dim / dip switch (brown)
Hazard warning switch (brown)

I also have a box of switches that are broken but could be used for spares maybe, couple of pounds maybe?

lots of mk 2 switches (too many to list)

Thanks
Philippe

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:21 pm
by mat_fenwick
For a longer lasting medium term repair, I would be inclined to fill with an epoxy such as JB Weld, or even Araldite. Reason being, body filler is hygroscopic so unless you can seal it from behind, it will absorb moisture from the interior of the car and allow corrosion to continue between the filler and the roof. I've used epoxy before for similar holes and while it's a lot more difficult to get a smooth finish, the repair lasted about 5 years before signs of rust starting coming back through.

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:39 pm
by Dollywobbler
Thanks Phil. All switchgear is working (though the hazards still only work with the ignition on...).

Mat - someone has suggested just using aluminium tape for a short-term 'fix.' I'm keen to avoid using something that could make eventual repair problematic.

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 4:38 pm
by Philip Chidlow
Do you think you'll want to get behind the panel? If so, trimming the worse off, treating with rust convertor, mesh, aluminium tape and sealer on that side would be a good idea, before treating the rust on the outside and smoothing over some filler. ?

Temporary, but pretty watertight.