BX Club Forum

Thats very interesting Phil,

and actually i am very pleased to know that holes there aint a problem, None of my BXs as yet have holes apearing there yet but ime treating them in case they do. I would personally be a bit worried if i was driving about in a vehicle with such holes there or in the boot areas as the rustworm creeps as we know.

Andy

Holes are generally bad and frowned upon, but I guess if you treat and seal and weatherproof it'll stop problems developing elsewhere? Dunno Most of the BXs I've owned have exhibited bubbling in that area to some extent - but I've never had one (of my maybe 9 BXs I've actually had tested) fail an MOT on it.

Well,
if it looks good and cant be seen, will the tester know? If its keeps an old motor going i guess it will keep being done.

Andy

Kitch wrote:Fog lamps look pretty swish, are they the Renault ones?

With that C-pillar, sorry in advance etc, but isn't filling over rust holes a bodge? Surely you want to at least spot weld some plating in there first? What's the filler supported with, mesh or fibreglass?

The filler’s supported by mesh. When the car was MOT’ed at the end of June/early July this year the rust was pretty much as it appears before I completed the repair. The car passed its’ MOT without any advisories so I assumed that as far as the test was concerned the rust didn’t compromise the structural integrity of the car in anyway. I took some advice at a few of the CCC rallies I attended over the Summer as to what would be the best way to go about the repair – it was generally agreed that it didn’t present a structural problem, which was my main concern. Ideally I’d like to have undone the spot welds between the rear wing and the wheel arch, peeled back the seam and removed any rust that that revealed. I think it’s unlikely as it stood that the welding in of a new piece of metal would have been required.

As I had neither the practical resources to complete the work myself or the finances to get someone else to do it, the second (and perhaps less comprehensive option) was to remove all the rust that was visible, rust treat it and remove any rust in the rear wheel arch (it was clean as a whistle in there and made me optimistic that the repair would be stable). To leave it any longer – particularly over another winter – would have meant that major surgery would definitely have been required by next year. I certainly didn’t repair over any visible rust only fresh metal. I’m not sure if that makes it a ‘bodge’ – I prefer to see it as damage limitation or at least the most sensible option I had in light of the resources available to me. So far the repair seems very stable and I still have the option of a more comprehensive repair should that be required at a later stage, but without any deterioration in the meantime

Doesnt the hole give access to the inner sill? I seem to recall someone here saying if you're doing this job then its worth making sure you waxoil or otherwise rust treat the inner sill - via the hole?

Paul296 wrote:

Kitch wrote:Fog lamps look pretty swish, are they the Renault ones?

With that C-pillar, sorry in advance etc, but isn\'t filling over rust holes a bodge? Surely you want to at least spot weld some plating in there first? What\'s the filler supported with, mesh or fibreglass?

The filler’s supported by mesh. When the car was MOT’ed at the end of June/early July this year the rust was pretty much as it appears before I completed the repair. The car passed its’ MOT without any advisories so I assumed that as far as the test was concerned the rust didn’t compromise the structural integrity of the car in anyway. I took some advice at a few of the CCC rallies I attended over the Summer as to what would be the best way to go about the repair – it was generally agreed that it didn’t present a structural problem, which was my main concern. Ideally I’d like to have undone the spot welds between the rear wing and the wheel arch, peeled back the seam and removed any rust that that revealed. I think it’s unlikely as it stood that the welding in of a new piece of metal would have been required.

As I had neither the practical resources to complete the work myself or the finances to get someone else to do it, the second (and perhaps less comprehensive option) was to remove all the rust that was visible, rust treat it and remove any rust in the rear wheel arch (it was clean as a whistle in there and made me optimistic that the repair would be stable). To leave it any longer – particularly over another winter – would have meant that major surgery would definitely have been required by next year. I certainly didn’t repair over any visible rust only fresh metal. I’m not sure if that makes it a ‘bodge’ – I prefer to see it as damage limitation or at least the most sensible option I had in light of the resources available to me. So far the repair seems very stable and I still have the option of a more comprehensive repair should that be required at a later stage, but without any deterioration in the meantime

Oh if it\'s a stop-gap type affair then I don\'t think you could do much more, though I\'d have added some fibreglass in there aswell to keep some strength. Finished article came out well too didn\'t it?

I have actually got some fibreglass but didn't think to use it! Oh well, you live and learn. I'm hoping it won't have to be a stop gap, but if it is I'll accept my fate with equanimity (then kick something! )

IMO (and experience) filled repairs will not last as long as welded in new metal, but can last a few years if there is no rust left behind and the filler is protected from moisture. Many fillers are hydroscopic so the last stage is important!

It is a good looking job you've done there, and reminds me I must sort out mine! I have a little bit of corrosion in the seam, so my plan is to drill out the spot welds, remove the overlap and butt weld them back together. But my welder has failed and I can't find the fault

mat_fenwick wrote: I have a little bit of corrosion in the seam, so my plan is to drill out the spot welds, remove the overlap and butt weld them back together.

I think that's the best way to go about it - but I don't have the facilities or the know-how really. I'm hoping that it will last a couple of years at least and in the meantime keep my beady eye on it. My main concern (besides making it look nice!) was to stop it getting any worse as it was definitely on the move!

mat_fenwick wrote:But my welder has failed and I can't find the fault

Have you put a shilling in the meter?

Tried that, also the old 'bang on the side of the case' trick but no success. The usual problem with these is the relay on the PCB for the wire feed motor, but that's OK on mine. Getting a 12V supply to the board as I should be, but that drops to nothing as soon as you pull the trigger.

Dear Paul.
Nice car Paul, the fog lights are exactly the sort I would have fitted, I
love the yellow fog lamps look, it suits your car perfectly.
Very nice repair to the door shut too Paul, I think it is a fantastic job
well done, I found with rust it is a case of sooner rather than later.
I know what you mean about people thinking, he,s out there polishing
his car again, I have a 2 car drive. and I rent a council garage 1/4 of a
mile away, but there is usually 4 cars I polish and valet continously like
painting the 4th road bridge, it is a never ending job. I am very very
good at polishing cars and I thoroughly enjoy it and have done since I was
18.
Today I have been totally soaked pressure washing the underneath of
the car and washing the wheel arches to reveal white paint.
I will get some photo,s for you Paul but I am just making the most of
having the car on 4 axle stand, now that I have finished repairing the
LHM leak and cleaning the LHM filters and renewing the LHM fluid.
Best Wishes Paul.
Vince.

bx petrol auto saloon wrote: Today I have been totally soaked pressure washing the underneath of
the car and washing the wheel arches to reveal white paint.

Does that mean that you have blasted off the underseal with the ferocity of the pressure washer?

Thanks Vince. My next job is to replace the LHM as it's not as green as it should be! I have to say, like you, I'm an inveterate polisher. I find it very relaxing and it sort of compensates for my lack of proficiency with a spanner ( but it does mean I have to tolerate my Mum's neighbour saying; 'you'll mek it rain agen' with monotonous regularity - it was funny the first time) Also, I like making what is generally thought of as a banger - look absolutely lovely - its my way of giving the finger to consumerism and 'new car' culture (bit of politics there)

As 'way2go' mentioned I'd be careful with the pressure washer in the wheel arches and that you don't remove the underseal? Anyway, hope you've made some progress with working out how to post pics - it would be great to see some pics of this car of yours?

Paul

Way2go wrote:

bx petrol auto saloon wrote: Today I have been totally soaked pressure washing the underneath of
the car and washing the wheel arches to reveal white paint.

Does that mean that you have blasted off the underseal with the ferocity of the pressure washer?

erm no, they should indeed be be white (see my TZi), albeit stone chip paint.