Fitting GTi gauges to a diesel (inc. Peugeot 205 gauges)

[MULLEY]

The wingnut probably got dropped the last time someone took the pod off, so you may be able to find it?

[saintjamesy89]

No evidence of it Matt, I looked! I'm sure a different wingnut will work just the same. Haynes sais early BX's had a 11mm nut instead, so I guess a regular 11m wingnut would do.

I need to buy some new bulbs for the dash, the disturbance has blown all of them apart from the stop light/lights on/handbrake lights! Driving to work in the morning recently has been interesting!

RE the gauge not reading anything, could I just attach the wire in position 6 directly to the back of the gauge? As in wrap the wire around the tiny stud, then tighten the nut over the top of the top left stud in the picture below (traced position 6 to this one). Would this work? The I don't have to faff about getting the correct connector in the plug.

[BX Bandit]

I'm sure I can find a plastic wing nut off my scrapper for you....
I dd my water temp guage just recently but I can't remember what I did. I'll read through this post again to see if I can jog my memory, but I did what I think Matt did.
I.e. I used the amber warning light switch and cable to power the red overheat lamp and used the red overheat cable to power the gauge. But you have to swap the position of the red overheat cable to another within the dash connector block.

[mat_fenwick]

could I just attach the wire in position 6 directly to the back of the gauge?

Yes, but it would be a bodge...crimp a ring connector on the end and do a proper job

[BX Bandit]

Why not use the plug on the top but exchange one of the wires? Or is this a mk one and so different?

[saintjamesy89]

Mat - I like your thinking, I shall do just that (even have a few in the shed!)

Niel - I don't have one of the connectors that is used in that plug, tried using the original connector that the temp wire has to no avail. This is in my TXD turbo. I'd love a temp dial in my GT, but wouldn't know where to put one. Need to get it fixed first anyway...

[BX Bandit]

But you can use the wire that feeds the red warning temp light to feed the temp guage. You'd have to find which position the connector is in the block, remove it and then insert it back in the same connector block but different position. If I knew the position numbers I'd tell you but u can't remember them.

[Willy]

Schoolboy question, but how do you get the cluster out fundamentally? I've so far managed to release the two screws immediately above the steering wheel, but this just allows the pod to tilt backwards. Can't find anything else to undo - how do I get the whole thing off?

My backlighter bulbs are dropping like flies!

Cheers.

NB which replacement bulbs are recommended? I just remember (iirc) TL here once say he tried some LEDs that proved daftly bright...

[BX Bandit]

Look at the ninth photo on oage one of this thread. You'll see the dash with the instrument panel off. There are two holes near the top of the 'relief'. The instrument panel is attached through these holes with two studs. So, you have to remove your trinket tray in the middle of he dash and stick your arm through and find the two plastic wing nuts behind those holes.

[TizzyD]

This maybe deemed off topic but I have a spare pod which I'm going to rob for bits but I was going to swap the trip from my current for the one in the spare, is this possible ? While I have my dash pod out I was going to change the bulbs (might go led) but on the spare pod I found this odd bulb under the oil pressure gauge, anyone know why this one is different to the rest of the dash bulbs ?

[mat_fenwick]

It'll be easier to swap the whole speedo rather than just the trip meter (or do you want to keep the odometer?)

I think the bulb difference is just down to maybe a different manufacturer, as AFAIK they are all 1.2 watt wedge types. There are a number of different holder designs, some where the leads from the bulb itself are crimped in place so not designed for replacement of the bulb alone.

[TizzyD]

I did want to keep the current odometer yes I guess I could just run my car to the same mileage as as the spare pod and swap the whole lot. When I changed the clock bulb I had to lift the bulb out using the metal tabs on either side that connect it to the circuit so I'm guessing that's one where they expect people to just buy a bulb in a holder than change just the bulb.

[MULLEY]

Its easy to remove the mileage drum & swap into another head, just remember to put some sellotape across the mileage drum when removing & re-insterting into the new head, once fitted just pull the tape off & your mileage will then be straight & correct .

[citsncycles]

Look at the ninth photo on oage one of this thread. You'll see the dash with the instrument panel off. There are two holes near the top of the 'relief'. The instrument panel is attached through these holes with two studs. So, you have to remove your trinket tray in the middle of he dash and stick your arm through and find the two plastic wing nuts behind those holes.
Look at the ninth photo on oage one of this thread. You'll see the dash with the instrument panel off. There are two holes near the top of the 'relief'. The instrument panel is attached through these holes with two studs. So, you have to remove your trinket tray in the middle of he dash and stick your arm through and find the two plastic wing nuts behind those holes.

I also find it useful to remove the small panel on the RH if dash which on better models has the mirror controls and on 14's the choke knob - it's a bit of a reach up, but once you get the hang of it you can get the dash out in a few minutes.

[mat_fenwick]

stick your arm through and find the two plastic wing nuts behind those holes.

Earlier models have plastic (11 mm?) hex nuts...can't remember when they changed over.