BX excess, can it be a success?
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
That's be a good one to try with the ladies...obviously nobody would be shallow enough to be interested just because of your car?
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
I have had a Sulky. It was very fridge like in construction and I passed it on. I think there will be only 3 to 5 here so the one over your way will be quite an unusual beastie. Of no great commercial value and less so if unregistered.
Bit of rain stopped play here. I managed to get the four suspension spheres done along with the rear wheels on new 165s. Slight hiatus on one rear as the new sphere refused to seat itself and pissed LHM each time. Eventually I used the old rubber in sort of desperation and it fitted perfectly. No evidence of a rubber defect on the new rubber. Must be operator error somewhere along the line. Might be I nipped the new rubber first time. Even that incompleted task was a worth the effort as the evening jaunt down to Tormarton to gas microcars at The Majors Retreat proved . The ecstasy of the ride, I really did not want to stop driving . When it decides to be Clement I can do the accumulator and front wheels. Then off to get tracking checked as I can feel its out. Might be some worn components - MOT was gained straight out of long storage so now things have loosened up they might be too loose!
Cleaned up Gary's nose. Not all concours or anything. Just so its white not black. Refitted the spoiler with its attendant rubber top-nots. One of the back mounts is intact, but clearly has worn, so need to collect a good one at some point to pull the shut line in straight. Not a biggy and at least it is not broken. I will see if I have the fitting knack right when in conversation, but it seems to work best with the rear mount fitted to the car but loose from the spoiler. This means you can pull the spoiler beyond the plastic baffles inside the wing that help locate the thing. It is then a case of blindly lining up where the mount should be and pushing the spoiler to engage the clips. Not easy to explain as opposed to seeing a dummy assembly pantomime. Anyway the whole front of the car looks better and should be more aerodynamic even down to lining the headlights up to the indicators so airflow is optimized.
Headlight adjusted by guesswork on the school wall next door. No one flashed me driving so I think they might be over cautiously low. With luck I can get the alignment done where there is is a headlamp alignment tool. Having said that I need to gain advice on my ride hight as I think the rear is to far in the air and so that will alter the headlight aim if dropped. Not an easy job for me. Fat of figure and short of arm is not made for tweaking the control rod . By choice I wish the BX had a low ride hight for motorways etc. It might save more fuel. Does on the CX according to Mike. I guess you can make an extra setting if you wanted, but some testing would be needed to avoid bottoming out .
Rain meant I could build up several Messerschmitt engines to be parted with at some point. Part of the move as one large lump of Sachs is easier and less prone to loss of bits in moving than tubs of tiny bits. But nearly all done now so it can stop raining.
Bit of rain stopped play here. I managed to get the four suspension spheres done along with the rear wheels on new 165s. Slight hiatus on one rear as the new sphere refused to seat itself and pissed LHM each time. Eventually I used the old rubber in sort of desperation and it fitted perfectly. No evidence of a rubber defect on the new rubber. Must be operator error somewhere along the line. Might be I nipped the new rubber first time. Even that incompleted task was a worth the effort as the evening jaunt down to Tormarton to gas microcars at The Majors Retreat proved . The ecstasy of the ride, I really did not want to stop driving . When it decides to be Clement I can do the accumulator and front wheels. Then off to get tracking checked as I can feel its out. Might be some worn components - MOT was gained straight out of long storage so now things have loosened up they might be too loose!
Cleaned up Gary's nose. Not all concours or anything. Just so its white not black. Refitted the spoiler with its attendant rubber top-nots. One of the back mounts is intact, but clearly has worn, so need to collect a good one at some point to pull the shut line in straight. Not a biggy and at least it is not broken. I will see if I have the fitting knack right when in conversation, but it seems to work best with the rear mount fitted to the car but loose from the spoiler. This means you can pull the spoiler beyond the plastic baffles inside the wing that help locate the thing. It is then a case of blindly lining up where the mount should be and pushing the spoiler to engage the clips. Not easy to explain as opposed to seeing a dummy assembly pantomime. Anyway the whole front of the car looks better and should be more aerodynamic even down to lining the headlights up to the indicators so airflow is optimized.
Headlight adjusted by guesswork on the school wall next door. No one flashed me driving so I think they might be over cautiously low. With luck I can get the alignment done where there is is a headlamp alignment tool. Having said that I need to gain advice on my ride hight as I think the rear is to far in the air and so that will alter the headlight aim if dropped. Not an easy job for me. Fat of figure and short of arm is not made for tweaking the control rod . By choice I wish the BX had a low ride hight for motorways etc. It might save more fuel. Does on the CX according to Mike. I guess you can make an extra setting if you wanted, but some testing would be needed to avoid bottoming out .
Rain meant I could build up several Messerschmitt engines to be parted with at some point. Part of the move as one large lump of Sachs is easier and less prone to loss of bits in moving than tubs of tiny bits. But nearly all done now so it can stop raining.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
If you want a slightly lower ride height, just get the height control lever & move it gently down until you're at a height that you are happy with, it should slip further down as they are usually quite firm to move, hope that made sense? To get the correct height generally speaking though, you'll need a 4 post ramp. I let my citroen indy do this for me as only a slight tweek to the underside would make a big difference in the actual height, so they messed on for approx 30 odd minutes .
2002 C5 2.0 HDI Estate - Jasmine - Now SORN
2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD
2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement
1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - My daily
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired.
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN
I'm not just a username, i'm also called Matthew.
2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD
2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement
1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - My daily
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired.
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN
I'm not just a username, i'm also called Matthew.
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
Bud, Mike, is tall enough and can do it from the side of the car - all clean and easy to tweak on Gary, of course. I am so big I struggle to get under an eiderdown!
Note to self, stop eating and typing at the same time. Due to a bit of lost chocolate from a magnum already lost the N on its side key, well the Welsh don't use it and the Americans cannot pronounce it. Crunchy with a hint of formaldehyde, reminiscent of the best of a 10 year old Albanian table wine, the cork. Hmmm.
Seriously need to get fitter to work on these cars. Bobbin up and down like a Cricket on a bungee. Doing me the world of good.
No real work done today other than pulling Homer's exhaust off to see if any of it is re usable. I think he is destined to be saved from the scrappy as there is not much wrong with him really. Just very scruffy. Annoying to see the 1.9 uses a different system to the 1.7 Turbo. Got a spare 1.7 system and the clamps/joints are much better for re use. I wonder if the I.6 would fit as that will want a new system when its restored.
Note to self, stop eating and typing at the same time. Due to a bit of lost chocolate from a magnum already lost the N on its side key, well the Welsh don't use it and the Americans cannot pronounce it. Crunchy with a hint of formaldehyde, reminiscent of the best of a 10 year old Albanian table wine, the cork. Hmmm.
Seriously need to get fitter to work on these cars. Bobbin up and down like a Cricket on a bungee. Doing me the world of good.
No real work done today other than pulling Homer's exhaust off to see if any of it is re usable. I think he is destined to be saved from the scrappy as there is not much wrong with him really. Just very scruffy. Annoying to see the 1.9 uses a different system to the 1.7 Turbo. Got a spare 1.7 system and the clamps/joints are much better for re use. I wonder if the I.6 would fit as that will want a new system when its restored.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
I think the silencers at least from the 1.6 should fit, not sure about the downpipe though.
The Sulky I know is UK registered, just not been used for years.
The Sulky I know is UK registered, just not been used for years.
Mike Sims
BX 19RD Estate Mk1 - Timex!
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BX 19RD Estate Mk1 - Timex!
BX 4X4 Estate - Oh god, I've done it again!
BX 17RD MK1 - it called to me!
BX14 TGE, - SOLD
XM Turbo SD,GS Club Estate,Visa 17D Leader,HY Pickup,Dyane Nomad,Dyane 6,2CV AZL,Falcon S,Trabant P50,3x Land Rovers (88" series 1,109" series 2a FFR,series 2a Marshall ambulance),DKW F7, Lambretta LD150 x 1.5,Mobylette SP93,Ural Cossack,Ural M63,CZ 250 Sport,Honda Varadero 125,lots of bicycles & tricycles including (but not only) Sunbeams,Higgins & Bates!
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
Are you not tempted to add it to your eclectic mix of vehicles? Not many P50 in the country. I think I only bought one in which went through Frome 2CV Centre back in the day. Deek, nice. I ended up going with Saab though.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
Up to a bright day and ideal to do those last few easy jobs to Gary. So the two front wheels, remove and replace the failed and leaking short accumulator return rubber pipe that takes the plastic return. Then got the chain wrench on the accumulator sphere as it was all de-pressurised. No movement. I pulled so hard that a chain link snapped and the wrench went through my glasses into my eyeball. Like rugby days of old. Washed it out and then had to get my other glasses to find the bits of the ones I was wearing. Fortunately only a dislodged lense. Might have a black eye.
So on resumption of work I gave up doing the sphere as I had nothing better in my tool box than the before never failed chain wrench. No point in hitting with a hammer etc. However the car was not finished yet. On starting up and clearing the stands away a new LHM leak appeared. I thought it was my old fav the three way joint on top of the front nearside crossmember. But no. Jack the car up, wheel off, no leak. Drop it, wheel on, leak. Up, no leak. Down, where cannot see, leak. and so on. Shoved some blocks under the wheel so it was loaded. Under ordinary load it was leaking. But from up the back and along the suspension return pipes which were in good order. Confused. Consult the oracles
Homer is now in the air so I can get at the back underneath. The exhaust is blowing at the front so only the rear box has need to be changed as yet. The spheres look like the originals. You would hardly know they were green. So need to be changed and noted on the MOT fail slip. As was a iffy rear wheel bearing, with which I agree.
I fitted the botch repaired front air pipe to the filter box. All else is plastic tubing but this one is made out of reprocessed Trabbi or something. Not up to 20 years plus work both ends have failed. I bet getting a good replacement is difficult. Already done the glow plugs but on fitting the filter to inlet tract pipe it is a very poor fit on the engine end. Several pictures show differing arrangements so maybe this is the wrong pipe. The headlights are sealed up and the front of the car can be reassembled later leaving the centre out for headlamp adjustment in the already serviced headlight adjusters nicely greased up. So Homer is under work.
Maybe Homer will save the day as I am beginning to run out of time to gain reliable transport from Gary, who seems to spring a new leak a week. I have heavy building commitments next month on a Bungalow I bought. It needs redecorating and floor insulation put down under a completely new floor. It might then be let as I need to go up to Cumbria and sort out the old garage into let-able units while processing the cars stored there into parts, scrap, banger racing ammo or keepers. While that is on going I can attempt to resolve several planning applications and work that requires put in motion in response to the answers. None of this allows for a BX that is going to continue to have its knappies changed so Gary needs to buck up or he will be put back into storage and an alternative and reliable vehicle found to replace him till I have time to bin half the suspension system for one of my own design that will work. Maybe Homer is the answer, despite being as rough as urchin! The problem is all the time Gary takes up means no action on the supporting caste of BX. That spells trouble for them as they will get moved on unimproved and risk scrap.
This situation is in part due to the blow up of the van. I had indented to do the BX in the new workshop. It does not exist yet so I have not the idle facility to which I had indented to do the job. Meaning a ramp and pit. Life is never that simple
So on resumption of work I gave up doing the sphere as I had nothing better in my tool box than the before never failed chain wrench. No point in hitting with a hammer etc. However the car was not finished yet. On starting up and clearing the stands away a new LHM leak appeared. I thought it was my old fav the three way joint on top of the front nearside crossmember. But no. Jack the car up, wheel off, no leak. Drop it, wheel on, leak. Up, no leak. Down, where cannot see, leak. and so on. Shoved some blocks under the wheel so it was loaded. Under ordinary load it was leaking. But from up the back and along the suspension return pipes which were in good order. Confused. Consult the oracles
Homer is now in the air so I can get at the back underneath. The exhaust is blowing at the front so only the rear box has need to be changed as yet. The spheres look like the originals. You would hardly know they were green. So need to be changed and noted on the MOT fail slip. As was a iffy rear wheel bearing, with which I agree.
I fitted the botch repaired front air pipe to the filter box. All else is plastic tubing but this one is made out of reprocessed Trabbi or something. Not up to 20 years plus work both ends have failed. I bet getting a good replacement is difficult. Already done the glow plugs but on fitting the filter to inlet tract pipe it is a very poor fit on the engine end. Several pictures show differing arrangements so maybe this is the wrong pipe. The headlights are sealed up and the front of the car can be reassembled later leaving the centre out for headlamp adjustment in the already serviced headlight adjusters nicely greased up. So Homer is under work.
Maybe Homer will save the day as I am beginning to run out of time to gain reliable transport from Gary, who seems to spring a new leak a week. I have heavy building commitments next month on a Bungalow I bought. It needs redecorating and floor insulation put down under a completely new floor. It might then be let as I need to go up to Cumbria and sort out the old garage into let-able units while processing the cars stored there into parts, scrap, banger racing ammo or keepers. While that is on going I can attempt to resolve several planning applications and work that requires put in motion in response to the answers. None of this allows for a BX that is going to continue to have its knappies changed so Gary needs to buck up or he will be put back into storage and an alternative and reliable vehicle found to replace him till I have time to bin half the suspension system for one of my own design that will work. Maybe Homer is the answer, despite being as rough as urchin! The problem is all the time Gary takes up means no action on the supporting caste of BX. That spells trouble for them as they will get moved on unimproved and risk scrap.
This situation is in part due to the blow up of the van. I had indented to do the BX in the new workshop. It does not exist yet so I have not the idle facility to which I had indented to do the job. Meaning a ramp and pit. Life is never that simple
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
All the work being done to get the cars sorted, and the move started, plus sorting out the messy end of the Estate I am not in charge of, finally saw me fall ill from overwork. My leg, which has no lymph system, reacted to the constant need to get under cars and I got a mild infection. Being run down that flared on the leg which is swollen to double size and I am now back on anti biotic treatment after over a year of being clear with doctors telling me I should not work on cars, lift things, do anything yap yap . Serious bummer.
As if to taunt me the 'phone had died last week, I continually kill micro electronic devices like calculators, watches and 'phones in my presence without touching them. So I had no car, no 'phone and felt myself going ill on Friday evening . Its always Friday evening as its the most inconvenient time. Fortunately I had stuff to self medicate by cheating the system last time . So today I was well enough to get much needed shopping. I still had to remount the spoiler and put the wheel back on Gary. That made me sweat so I am still slightly running a temperature . I was prepared to loose some LHM to get dog food, phone sorted, my food etc. So off to Standford in the Vale (cannot afford Faringdon prices!) Co op and chum for 'phone. On exiting some 20 minutes later I rolled the car back to look at several alarming leaks under the car. It was a hot day so kids were loitering and wanted to know what I was doing and offered to get what ever had fallen under the car for me . So I told them, never seen a Citroen, as such. So showed them it going up and down and self leveling. They were quite interested so we looked at the leaks. Water, water everywhere but none that make a Citroen sink . Where I had the car go up and down was a dribble of LHM. Weird .
Got home and parked on a none BX plopped area of drive. Had lunch and stuck my foot up for two hours reading (my foot is far cleverer than I am). Out and moved Gary back. No leak. So he has done a Lazarus and is healed without my doing anything to the strut . What is going on?
So light duties next week to get my leg better but it looks like Gary will be going to Stratford after all. I might be slightly immobile myself, will have to see how the infection goes .
I had started on Homer. He sits with his rear in the air stripped of wheels and exhaust. Needs only a wheel bearing change, a replacement of exhaust and the fuel tank strap has rusted through. Otherwise I have a possible front bottom ball joint to do. Ideally the rear spheres want changing. All other issues had been resolved having stopped work on Gary. Homer proved far more co operative . Nothing greatly difficult for an MOT and then back up to car to the slightly worrying Gary the Gimp, but I dare not inflame my leg. Very frustrating .
As if to taunt me the 'phone had died last week, I continually kill micro electronic devices like calculators, watches and 'phones in my presence without touching them. So I had no car, no 'phone and felt myself going ill on Friday evening . Its always Friday evening as its the most inconvenient time. Fortunately I had stuff to self medicate by cheating the system last time . So today I was well enough to get much needed shopping. I still had to remount the spoiler and put the wheel back on Gary. That made me sweat so I am still slightly running a temperature . I was prepared to loose some LHM to get dog food, phone sorted, my food etc. So off to Standford in the Vale (cannot afford Faringdon prices!) Co op and chum for 'phone. On exiting some 20 minutes later I rolled the car back to look at several alarming leaks under the car. It was a hot day so kids were loitering and wanted to know what I was doing and offered to get what ever had fallen under the car for me . So I told them, never seen a Citroen, as such. So showed them it going up and down and self leveling. They were quite interested so we looked at the leaks. Water, water everywhere but none that make a Citroen sink . Where I had the car go up and down was a dribble of LHM. Weird .
Got home and parked on a none BX plopped area of drive. Had lunch and stuck my foot up for two hours reading (my foot is far cleverer than I am). Out and moved Gary back. No leak. So he has done a Lazarus and is healed without my doing anything to the strut . What is going on?
So light duties next week to get my leg better but it looks like Gary will be going to Stratford after all. I might be slightly immobile myself, will have to see how the infection goes .
I had started on Homer. He sits with his rear in the air stripped of wheels and exhaust. Needs only a wheel bearing change, a replacement of exhaust and the fuel tank strap has rusted through. Otherwise I have a possible front bottom ball joint to do. Ideally the rear spheres want changing. All other issues had been resolved having stopped work on Gary. Homer proved far more co operative . Nothing greatly difficult for an MOT and then back up to car to the slightly worrying Gary the Gimp, but I dare not inflame my leg. Very frustrating .
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
The Lazarus effect has continued. So Gay X has slotted into regular service as number one car with proviso's of tasks needing doing in that the strut cannot really be trusted having once leaked. In addition as soon as a passenger is added to the load the clutch is slipping. So a new clutch it is . If both those jobs are tackled together, replacement struts purchased at Stratty, thank you, then the N/S front return pipes can be got at with greater ease and fully reassembled and hopefully that will end nonsense from that area for a while. Rob did the same for the Octopus side after the timing belt etc was serviced, although the octopus is of unknown age and can have ends fail, of course. After discussion at Stratty I think the ride heights need to be set up on the ramp too.
So given the above I think the only other mechanical task is to service the oil in case there is further muck to be got out of the engine and a set of pre heater plugs before winter. The engine has settled down well and is good and smooth, quiet inside the car, which passengers comment on. Indeed there is more noise from the drive train and at some point perhaps a look at this might be in order just to check if all is lubed as it should be. Another job when its on the ramp. Also playing with tyre sets I am confirmed in my opinion that while the 185 offer greater ultimate handling they do not offer a better driving solution to the 165 tyres save when pressing on round hard corners or small roundabout when the narrower tyres start to audibly complain. MPG seems to be better on the narrower tyres, and though my latest test gave an unlikely 62 mpg, I think a longer period to equal out errors will see it at 54/55 mpg, which is where the old green car came in when not loaded. Certainly having a set of matching tyres does make the car more predictable over the mix and match sets I started with.
So Gary is possibly now a known quantity. He took to going up to Stratford like a willing car should. The grockles and petherers drove me off the main roads as soon as I got near Burford and I slid round it via the lanes, avoiding Stowe on the Wold to hit Moreton and the Fosse Way. Even then progress was not fast. On arrival I got glared at by the campervan lot going round twice trying to find where to go. Confirming this was the place after seeing the CCC banner. Well there is nothing campervan man hates more than someone not in campervan enjoying themselves . Probably because most of them have already had an argument with the partner and they cannot afford to go to the bar to get piece and quiet for five minutes having spent £X0,000 on a van with two kitchen units and an uncomfortable sofa in it to keep said partner happy . Bad plan and it did not work on several levels, not least because there is always a more expensive option that must be better . Poor sod used to have a hobby or pastime, can't afford it any longer, yet 'shopping' still seems to be on the agenda ! The only answer is to buy several stationary engines .
Fortunately I found the BX mob much more to my taste with no straight neat row of tents and cars since having a beer was more important. Partners seemed in total collusion to this plan so all was happy . As if by magic an MFI wood armchair appeared with beer for me and the sun shone while I tried to catch up with who was what, where and why with added banter . (Why does someone drive round with a girt wood chair in their car? No. I need no answer, I was grateful they did is all).
The clock wound round beyond when I should have left as I was enjoying myself. Then a great run back to chum's near Oxford for late tiffen and chunda. It was only then I realised it was MotaGP at Silverstone. Well that would account for traffic oddities and attendance at events being the really motivated individuals.
Sunday was on to the Bubblecar Rally and direct contact with more Campervan Man, with stationary engines, but fitted to unused Microcars. Fortunately not many of them had turned out leaving the guys who have been doing Microcars for 30 years, and from the time no one was interested or wanted them, to dominate proceedings. A seven hour straight non-stop chat on things Micro in perfect weather. I have now been to Malvern and not got wet! Glad I went as very enjoyable to network with people not seen for a very long time.
Mean while Homer had minor progress with the exhaust centre box removal partly achieved due to it being holed as well. A cheapo set of exhaust bits that do not fit together and so despite removing the clamping collar the second section of front pipe seems to go inside the silencer some distance now being jammed. Later on this week I have to resolve that issue and get the two rear replacements sorted out. At the same time I need the correct socket out of storage to do the rear wheel bearing. Needless to say the corroded fuel tank strap had its retaining bolt shear off despite being really light handed with it. Those tasks resolved I think its MOT time and a possible front ball joint. A weeks running to check out faults and hopefully Homer well take the pressure of Gary so the remaining jobs can be done. The TZD can be tidied up ready to be sold as well.
So given the above I think the only other mechanical task is to service the oil in case there is further muck to be got out of the engine and a set of pre heater plugs before winter. The engine has settled down well and is good and smooth, quiet inside the car, which passengers comment on. Indeed there is more noise from the drive train and at some point perhaps a look at this might be in order just to check if all is lubed as it should be. Another job when its on the ramp. Also playing with tyre sets I am confirmed in my opinion that while the 185 offer greater ultimate handling they do not offer a better driving solution to the 165 tyres save when pressing on round hard corners or small roundabout when the narrower tyres start to audibly complain. MPG seems to be better on the narrower tyres, and though my latest test gave an unlikely 62 mpg, I think a longer period to equal out errors will see it at 54/55 mpg, which is where the old green car came in when not loaded. Certainly having a set of matching tyres does make the car more predictable over the mix and match sets I started with.
So Gary is possibly now a known quantity. He took to going up to Stratford like a willing car should. The grockles and petherers drove me off the main roads as soon as I got near Burford and I slid round it via the lanes, avoiding Stowe on the Wold to hit Moreton and the Fosse Way. Even then progress was not fast. On arrival I got glared at by the campervan lot going round twice trying to find where to go. Confirming this was the place after seeing the CCC banner. Well there is nothing campervan man hates more than someone not in campervan enjoying themselves . Probably because most of them have already had an argument with the partner and they cannot afford to go to the bar to get piece and quiet for five minutes having spent £X0,000 on a van with two kitchen units and an uncomfortable sofa in it to keep said partner happy . Bad plan and it did not work on several levels, not least because there is always a more expensive option that must be better . Poor sod used to have a hobby or pastime, can't afford it any longer, yet 'shopping' still seems to be on the agenda ! The only answer is to buy several stationary engines .
Fortunately I found the BX mob much more to my taste with no straight neat row of tents and cars since having a beer was more important. Partners seemed in total collusion to this plan so all was happy . As if by magic an MFI wood armchair appeared with beer for me and the sun shone while I tried to catch up with who was what, where and why with added banter . (Why does someone drive round with a girt wood chair in their car? No. I need no answer, I was grateful they did is all).
The clock wound round beyond when I should have left as I was enjoying myself. Then a great run back to chum's near Oxford for late tiffen and chunda. It was only then I realised it was MotaGP at Silverstone. Well that would account for traffic oddities and attendance at events being the really motivated individuals.
Sunday was on to the Bubblecar Rally and direct contact with more Campervan Man, with stationary engines, but fitted to unused Microcars. Fortunately not many of them had turned out leaving the guys who have been doing Microcars for 30 years, and from the time no one was interested or wanted them, to dominate proceedings. A seven hour straight non-stop chat on things Micro in perfect weather. I have now been to Malvern and not got wet! Glad I went as very enjoyable to network with people not seen for a very long time.
Mean while Homer had minor progress with the exhaust centre box removal partly achieved due to it being holed as well. A cheapo set of exhaust bits that do not fit together and so despite removing the clamping collar the second section of front pipe seems to go inside the silencer some distance now being jammed. Later on this week I have to resolve that issue and get the two rear replacements sorted out. At the same time I need the correct socket out of storage to do the rear wheel bearing. Needless to say the corroded fuel tank strap had its retaining bolt shear off despite being really light handed with it. Those tasks resolved I think its MOT time and a possible front ball joint. A weeks running to check out faults and hopefully Homer well take the pressure of Gary so the remaining jobs can be done. The TZD can be tidied up ready to be sold as well.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
Hi TB, heres how I approached removing the front subframe. Luckily this was from an engine out car so I could see a bit better.
1. Detach wheels, detach drop links, detach wishbone from steering lower ball joints.
2. There are 2 short bolts retaining the 'curly' bits of piping to the front of the frame in approx the middle, and they need removing.
3. The FDV is held to nearside rear of frame by one bolt, remove.
4. Remove the rod retainer to the ride height adjuster, its a piece of steel on the forward part of the control rod linked to internal height lever. It has a sloped internal profile and needs rotating and gently easing off the downwards and transverse rod from the ride height unit.
5. Remove retaining clip from sideways (along anti roll bar) part of ride height adjuster as this holds the turned back loop in a bronze bush. This one might be tricky with the engine in.
6. Remove hard brake pipes from joint to flexys in wheel arches. Also release the clips on top of frame. Also there are 2 nuts on studs retaining what feels like lead wrapping which guide the octopus run to reservoir on o/s and something else n/s. Remove the two nuts and watch you don't lose the wrapping.
7. After supporting frame vertically remove 2 central steering rack retaining bolts, there are thick (10mm approx) spacers on top of the frame.
8. Remove both anti roll bar retaining bolts each side. Note the rear ones have a nut at the top, the forward ones feed into a captive nut in box section.
9. Open drivers door and unscrew lower trim along sill as far as the seat. Then roll back the carpet from up above the pedals until you reveal the taped over hole giving access to the rear mounting bolt. Ditto nearside. Put socket with 18mm (plug panner socket) on inside and undo from underneath. Frame MUST be supported at this point.
10. Brake pipes run to a Y type joint near the FDV held in a white clip which is keyhole fastened (I think) to rear of subframe. You should be able to undo the 2 necessary unions. These are the nearside one and the upper one towards the centre of the car. Personally I unclipped the plastic bit to get purchase on the brass Y junction with large adjustable so I could undo the pipe joints.
11. Undo the ride height corrector - 2 bolts angled down and towards centre, then drop the frame slightly. Then try and slide the actuating looped rod from its bush on the anti roll bar.
12 Unclip carefully the pipework from the 2 'fixed' clips on the rear of the subframe. Keep the other floating clips intact as they retain the pipe runs for you.
13. Unclip the offside brake pipe from the top of the offside floating clip. Then pull out both the brake pipes. Remove them through the side hole in subframe. Pity it wasn't U slotted as it would have saved a lot of aggro!
14. Almost there, unclip offside soft pipe return along inside offside rear of frame (if you haven't it will snag)
and after tying up the anti roll bar to hold it up, gently lower the frame easing it forward so that the ride height linkage rod slides out the rear of subframe. The vertical strut by the ride height corrector gets in the way a bit and does require a bit of jiggling with the height unit to get it to clear.
Hopefully you now have a subframe with wishbones! BTW I doubt I could have got my wishbones out with the frame in the car. One side was well rusted on the pin and the other slipped out but the 'wrong' way!
On reassembly I will be greasing these buggers so they will come out from their designated place if required. I suspect you will be doing the bushes - about a tenner. Fun to get out, but a hacksaw might be your best friend there, at least I don't have a puller, and it worked for me.
Hope you may find this helpful when you come to attack the beastie with damaged sub frame. Note you can leave almost all the pipework in place floating in the two free clips. Only one pipe (o/s brake one) actually needs re-clipping afterwards. The rest should go back as they came out into the retained clips on rear of subframe.
1. Detach wheels, detach drop links, detach wishbone from steering lower ball joints.
2. There are 2 short bolts retaining the 'curly' bits of piping to the front of the frame in approx the middle, and they need removing.
3. The FDV is held to nearside rear of frame by one bolt, remove.
4. Remove the rod retainer to the ride height adjuster, its a piece of steel on the forward part of the control rod linked to internal height lever. It has a sloped internal profile and needs rotating and gently easing off the downwards and transverse rod from the ride height unit.
5. Remove retaining clip from sideways (along anti roll bar) part of ride height adjuster as this holds the turned back loop in a bronze bush. This one might be tricky with the engine in.
6. Remove hard brake pipes from joint to flexys in wheel arches. Also release the clips on top of frame. Also there are 2 nuts on studs retaining what feels like lead wrapping which guide the octopus run to reservoir on o/s and something else n/s. Remove the two nuts and watch you don't lose the wrapping.
7. After supporting frame vertically remove 2 central steering rack retaining bolts, there are thick (10mm approx) spacers on top of the frame.
8. Remove both anti roll bar retaining bolts each side. Note the rear ones have a nut at the top, the forward ones feed into a captive nut in box section.
9. Open drivers door and unscrew lower trim along sill as far as the seat. Then roll back the carpet from up above the pedals until you reveal the taped over hole giving access to the rear mounting bolt. Ditto nearside. Put socket with 18mm (plug panner socket) on inside and undo from underneath. Frame MUST be supported at this point.
10. Brake pipes run to a Y type joint near the FDV held in a white clip which is keyhole fastened (I think) to rear of subframe. You should be able to undo the 2 necessary unions. These are the nearside one and the upper one towards the centre of the car. Personally I unclipped the plastic bit to get purchase on the brass Y junction with large adjustable so I could undo the pipe joints.
11. Undo the ride height corrector - 2 bolts angled down and towards centre, then drop the frame slightly. Then try and slide the actuating looped rod from its bush on the anti roll bar.
12 Unclip carefully the pipework from the 2 'fixed' clips on the rear of the subframe. Keep the other floating clips intact as they retain the pipe runs for you.
13. Unclip the offside brake pipe from the top of the offside floating clip. Then pull out both the brake pipes. Remove them through the side hole in subframe. Pity it wasn't U slotted as it would have saved a lot of aggro!
14. Almost there, unclip offside soft pipe return along inside offside rear of frame (if you haven't it will snag)
and after tying up the anti roll bar to hold it up, gently lower the frame easing it forward so that the ride height linkage rod slides out the rear of subframe. The vertical strut by the ride height corrector gets in the way a bit and does require a bit of jiggling with the height unit to get it to clear.
Hopefully you now have a subframe with wishbones! BTW I doubt I could have got my wishbones out with the frame in the car. One side was well rusted on the pin and the other slipped out but the 'wrong' way!
On reassembly I will be greasing these buggers so they will come out from their designated place if required. I suspect you will be doing the bushes - about a tenner. Fun to get out, but a hacksaw might be your best friend there, at least I don't have a puller, and it worked for me.
Hope you may find this helpful when you come to attack the beastie with damaged sub frame. Note you can leave almost all the pipework in place floating in the two free clips. Only one pipe (o/s brake one) actually needs re-clipping afterwards. The rest should go back as they came out into the retained clips on rear of subframe.
Last edited by Tinkley on Sun Sep 08, 2013 7:08 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
Thats great!
I always thought it ought to be possible to do this task from underneath.
I was going to restore the subframe assembly before the job so it can go on and not be touched, hopefully, for ages. I was going to ask about the bushings as I did wonder if there were some around that were not as good quality. The price seems to vary a lot. I think I even saw some poly versions. I think that might transfer road roughness into the chassis, the reason I got a Citroen was ride, so I will go for rubber and some movement.
My subframe needs some minor edge straightening, naughty jack action, but is in very good condition otherwise. So the question is has the shell moved at all or has the subframe sacrificed itself totally on the low speed impact. The issue will be the main lower mounting area which is hard to see but looks OK. So its not a total forgone conclusion this car will go again, 95%, be a shame as its good otherwise. All the parts likely to have been damaged on that corner will be replaced if its a go. Then I have no need of Homer as Gary becomes transport and Walt comes out for best - unless the smaller petrols are more fun!
I want to do this job with the car on the new ramp. It should make it a deal simpler.
Indeed it did cross my mind it might be a good candidate for a workshop day if I had everything ready. Only thing is it will hog the ramp which prevents putting other cars up that might benefit from the visit. That would be the draw really, to make it worth the fuel for folk to come, with a task in mind, with added banter and a few shandys with like minded nutters, and hopefully someone who knows what he is talking about. Still that is in the future, got to build it all first and try to buy the paddock next door, great for free camping etc.. Failing that there is an official camp site, with kids entertainment, 1/2 mile down the road and 1/4 mile by foot. So the potential is there for eventing.
I always thought it ought to be possible to do this task from underneath.
I was going to restore the subframe assembly before the job so it can go on and not be touched, hopefully, for ages. I was going to ask about the bushings as I did wonder if there were some around that were not as good quality. The price seems to vary a lot. I think I even saw some poly versions. I think that might transfer road roughness into the chassis, the reason I got a Citroen was ride, so I will go for rubber and some movement.
My subframe needs some minor edge straightening, naughty jack action, but is in very good condition otherwise. So the question is has the shell moved at all or has the subframe sacrificed itself totally on the low speed impact. The issue will be the main lower mounting area which is hard to see but looks OK. So its not a total forgone conclusion this car will go again, 95%, be a shame as its good otherwise. All the parts likely to have been damaged on that corner will be replaced if its a go. Then I have no need of Homer as Gary becomes transport and Walt comes out for best - unless the smaller petrols are more fun!
I want to do this job with the car on the new ramp. It should make it a deal simpler.
Indeed it did cross my mind it might be a good candidate for a workshop day if I had everything ready. Only thing is it will hog the ramp which prevents putting other cars up that might benefit from the visit. That would be the draw really, to make it worth the fuel for folk to come, with a task in mind, with added banter and a few shandys with like minded nutters, and hopefully someone who knows what he is talking about. Still that is in the future, got to build it all first and try to buy the paddock next door, great for free camping etc.. Failing that there is an official camp site, with kids entertainment, 1/2 mile down the road and 1/4 mile by foot. So the potential is there for eventing.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
Cheers TB, I think if I had any damage to the flange I would get the thing seam welded. Fairly sure it is just heavy spot welded as std along the flanges. Its rust getting inside the box that is the problem as the damaged one has definitely let go and subsequently creased. Unfortunately I don't have a welder but could easily find someone to do it.
The one I've removed is in very good nick and I have checked with torch and mirror inside - no visible rust, thank goodness.
The rear frame mount is v stiff on the chassis, the 18mm bolt has a thick washer inside as well and must be 2.5mm + of steel and then washer. You really would have to go some to do that in. The subframe will bend/buckle before the mount points, I am convinced, and it is deliberately designed to do so. If you actually try and find safety stuff data (yes I have looked), the BX is safer than a mid 90's Honda Civic! as well as a raft of later cars. Thats despite not good enough for 94 crash regs, but unless someone from PSA tells us where it failed/would fail we are still in the dark. Otherwise the Xantia differences would give the best clue.
Assuming you have all MK2s' the 2 pairs of bushings can be bought from NEAT in W Drayton.
I FORGOT in the removal list to undo the engine retaining bolt from the engine or the vertical one!. Without that the subframe won't go far forgive me, the engine was not in the donor.
The one I've removed is in very good nick and I have checked with torch and mirror inside - no visible rust, thank goodness.
The rear frame mount is v stiff on the chassis, the 18mm bolt has a thick washer inside as well and must be 2.5mm + of steel and then washer. You really would have to go some to do that in. The subframe will bend/buckle before the mount points, I am convinced, and it is deliberately designed to do so. If you actually try and find safety stuff data (yes I have looked), the BX is safer than a mid 90's Honda Civic! as well as a raft of later cars. Thats despite not good enough for 94 crash regs, but unless someone from PSA tells us where it failed/would fail we are still in the dark. Otherwise the Xantia differences would give the best clue.
Assuming you have all MK2s' the 2 pairs of bushings can be bought from NEAT in W Drayton.
I FORGOT in the removal list to undo the engine retaining bolt from the engine or the vertical one!. Without that the subframe won't go far forgive me, the engine was not in the donor.
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
The sun shone on Saturday. I should have been out fixing Homer and getting ahead on a list of things to be done that seems to grow ever longer. So I choose to go up to the CXM do a Little Horwood and participate in the trip out instead. This proved interesting, though I had the only BX there at the time. Autojumble was a little rushed but some handy bits, leap in the car and follow the guy in front. Only one wrong slot, which I felt, but being only driver could not immediately respond to my written instruction sheet. I fear it was a sat nav issue 4 cars ahead, but once round a factory and we were right again.
You either like Railway preservation societies, or you do not, I think. Very dedicated folk and for me I can always find interest in machine, architecture, industrial archaeology or in flora and fauna. I find it difficult to be bored. For some, I think, there might have been a bit to much hanging around. Still we went up the line in a powered carriage, in effect. Called the Bubble by the Rail folk but not the sort I am used to. It is a rail-car powered by twin AEC diesel truck engines. Trip round the sidings, starting a V12 diesel English Electric loco.
From there I had to head straight back home to change before I went off to further meetings with rich people down south. Gary X during these adventures had a further LHM leak, the speedo cable has broken and two bulbs now fail to function at the rear. So much for reliability of low mileage cars. So having enjoyed a half day out before it started raining my list of things to do has got longer. In the words of Inspector Clouseau 'Swine car'.
You either like Railway preservation societies, or you do not, I think. Very dedicated folk and for me I can always find interest in machine, architecture, industrial archaeology or in flora and fauna. I find it difficult to be bored. For some, I think, there might have been a bit to much hanging around. Still we went up the line in a powered carriage, in effect. Called the Bubble by the Rail folk but not the sort I am used to. It is a rail-car powered by twin AEC diesel truck engines. Trip round the sidings, starting a V12 diesel English Electric loco.
From there I had to head straight back home to change before I went off to further meetings with rich people down south. Gary X during these adventures had a further LHM leak, the speedo cable has broken and two bulbs now fail to function at the rear. So much for reliability of low mileage cars. So having enjoyed a half day out before it started raining my list of things to do has got longer. In the words of Inspector Clouseau 'Swine car'.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
Never sure about low mileage cars. Sometimes its better to find a high mile that's been cared for, but maybe that is just my experience. When you do the front subframe you will find access to the pipework around the ride height corrector much easier. I'm going to change the other 2 pipes in the system as the Octopus is 2 years old but I have a weep in that area and jiggling the pipes dropping the subframe will only open it up badly.
Glad you had a good day At least I've managed to get the new bushes in the wishbone. Bit of a swine but not too bad. Even used the toolmakers clamp I made at college to help me get purchase pulling the bush into place. Tip, you press the bush in with vice to about 2/3rds in, then remove and use the 16mm mounting bolt with fat washers and a steel jaw (toolmakers clamp) to pull it into place, similar to the Haynes illustrated method. No need for a special 14mm length of studding.
Glad you had a good day At least I've managed to get the new bushes in the wishbone. Bit of a swine but not too bad. Even used the toolmakers clamp I made at college to help me get purchase pulling the bush into place. Tip, you press the bush in with vice to about 2/3rds in, then remove and use the 16mm mounting bolt with fat washers and a steel jaw (toolmakers clamp) to pull it into place, similar to the Haynes illustrated method. No need for a special 14mm length of studding.
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Re: BX excess, can it be a success?
I have plans to overhaul the pipes as suits, replace flexi/rubber bits and change to rebuilt struts on Gary. Clean the system out and hopefully it should be fault free for sometime. That all requires preparation and I am a long way from doing these jobs. Walt is unknown territory but I guess it makes sense to do what is exposed at least.
Had a few friends round to bung ideas about on the 'new' bungalow I have bought and can now get in at last. While it was realised the roof space cannot make a set of legal rooms it can, with a gable end window, make an excellent spares stash for larger light parts plus an office/den area for doing electrical repairs and the like under a couple of velux. We can hide the stairs. So that is a large shed that need not be built so less to attract clip board man. I am at that distance from constructive work on cars!
Had a few friends round to bung ideas about on the 'new' bungalow I have bought and can now get in at last. While it was realised the roof space cannot make a set of legal rooms it can, with a gable end window, make an excellent spares stash for larger light parts plus an office/den area for doing electrical repairs and the like under a couple of velux. We can hide the stairs. So that is a large shed that need not be built so less to attract clip board man. I am at that distance from constructive work on cars!
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars