Slagtrooper's BX 19 GTi 1993

[citsncycles]

I tend to find mine rise at whatever end's got the least weight on (so usually front first the way I tend to load them up!) If it's stayed up all night then the system's pretty good. As for the height lever, you probably need to lubricate the linkages under the car.

[Slagtrooper]

Sometimes are good news and, sometimes are bad ones...

Yesterday i noticed some LHM leaks below the front sub frame, driver side. I think it's the octopus in its end of the line [hope]. Yea, car from 1993, i think is time for that kind of problems. Found a tutorial to make DIY the octopus in a cheap, reliable way. Noticed too that the breather rubber hoses from front suspension are torn apart too. Easy, but important things to fix.

I'm having issues for jacking the ride. The hardpoints described in the manual aren't so "hard". Maybe with an elevator, weight of the entire car divided in 4 points at the same time. But with one small point of a bottle jack is more easier to screw up below the floor or even the structure. Jacking the rear was nothing special, but the front part is that i'm worried, like damaging the front subframe.

And still with idling and combustion problems. it's extremely rich, eyes burn, strong smell...

[MULLEY]

Put some wood between the jack & the front subframe to spread the load, it should be fine.

[Slagtrooper]

Yesterday was trying to engage the reverse gear, but nothing happened.

I'm without the autobox oil stick and the engine one is broken at the top, no plastic cover, only the stick. I can't verify the real oil level at the autobox, but with the engine stick i tried and could see that obviously it need a complete change.
Luck is on my side (maybe), the color is dark red, not that black, frightening color. At first i will try to change the oil and maybe cleaning the filter [the right way IS cleaning the filter and verify the sump pan for fragments, but i will need a new gasket and don't have one at this time]
I hope the problem is only with the oil, because it have only about 64.000 Km. Forward [the A gear] is engaging fine. When it moved, i thought: "I WILL LEARN TO DEAL WITH THIS, how i could all this time use manual cars????"
As i'm trying to bring back the autobox to work, i postponed the hydraulics.

Cooling: I think some GENIUS removed the thermostatic valve, because the mixture is rich and the car stays at 60º C. Rad and top hose becames warm fast and the fans doesn't engage. Noticed a bypass at the wires too, i will try to understand what they had done to it. Men, i strongly hate that kind of "fixes". Today i will confirm this.

With that, i will try to do a plan for changing all the cooling hoses, but i feel that will encounter some hard time trying to find equivalent parts. I found that Pug 405 with this engine are rare here and the 205 GTi's didn't came.

[citsncycles]

Don't know much about auto boxes, but a mate's ZX clocked up getting on for 3 times that mileage with the same type box, including some heavy towing!

Dunno about where you are, but you may be able to get some silicone bends, straight hoses and joiners from a motorsport shop in order to make up your own hoses. There have been silocone hose kits made for the valvers, but not sure about the 8v cars. Hose supply is running out here for certain models.

[Way2go]

Yesterday was trying to engage the reverse gear, but nothing happened.

I'm without the autobox oil stick and the engine one is broken at the top, no plastic cover, only the stick. I can't verify the real oil level at the autobox, but with the engine stick i tried and could see that obviously it need a complete change.
Luck is on my side (maybe), the color is dark red, not that black, frightening color.

I don't want to worry you but red IS a frightening colour for the autobox.

The box is designed to work on Dexron 2 which is clear in colour. Even Dexron 3 is not advised (it's not an improved replacement) due to the damage which can be caused (and if you do a search in technical there are a number of existing posts on this).

Now it may be that D2 is dyed red in your country and therefore there is not a problem but I'd check that if I was you. Also changing the autobox oil is not as straightforward as the engine so I do recommend you read through past technical posts using the forum search function.

[Thread Bear]

Exciting reading but cannot add anything intelligent.

[mds141]

Yesterday was trying to engage the reverse gear, but nothing happened.

I'm without the autobox oil stick and the engine one is broken at the top, no plastic cover, only the stick. I can't verify the real oil level at the autobox, but with the engine stick i tried and could see that obviously it need a complete change.
Luck is on my side (maybe), the color is dark red, not that black, frightening color.

I don't want to worry you but red IS a frightening colour for the autobox.

The box is designed to work on Dexron 2 which is clear in colour. Even Dexron 3 is not advised (it's not an improved replacement) due to the damage which can be caused (and if you do a search in technical there are a number of existing posts on this).

Now it may be that D2 is dyed red in your country and therefore there is not a problem but I'd check that if I was you. Also changing the autobox oil is not as straightforward as the engine so I do recommend you read through past technical posts using the forum search function.

Sorry to contradict, but Dexron 2 is most certainly red in colour. It's like pouring cherryade into your gearbox.

[Slagtrooper]

Yeah, i saw the DII vs DIII debate. It makes sense, but even in ZF manuals said Dex III are ok to use...That's something strange. Even in the user manual said about using Dex III. Mineral, of course.
Pure Dex II is almost impossible to find here, only could find the Dex II D at the oil shop. Don't know the difference about Dexron II E and D [The E type is on the Citroën manual too]

About the hoses, it seems that is other DIY time...

I didn't ran after the LHM leaks. Results? Lost almost ALL the LHM bought

So: I have to check the cooling, then hydraulics and finally the autobox.

Tonight tested again the valve and it's wrong. Is for Fords Endura E. [AGAIN, first the fuel sender, now the thermostatic valve...]
Encountered MTE Thomson VT 218.92 @ 92 ºC and std part is VT 248.82 @ 82ºC as the catalogue says. .
So the valve isn't the problem, as today i let the ride at idle for more time and it became warmer [But i found accidentaly a problem, of course i will use the right valve ASAP].
Warmer, but didn't engaged the fans. Then i think it's safer that i start from inside the car and review all the wirings, system by system, searching for problems.

Yeah, back to the drawing board, i think the first thing it really need is a complete wash - Outside and below the car. It will become easier to find where the leaks are. I suspect they are from the steering box.

[Slagtrooper]

Exciting reading but cannot add anything intelligent.

Thank you very much, i have the habit of write and speak in that way, even in my "out of luck" moments.

I think it's better everyone laugh together at my misavendtures than me staying angry, hot headed and do the "i'm tired with this car, i will trade in a silver VW POLO 03'" thing when facing the first hard problem. Quitting this project isn't on my plans...





And of course, i want a BXClub.co.uk sticker to display here in Brazil, how can i buy one of these?

[mat_fenwick]

http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic ... &start=120" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Defender110]

I don't want to worry you but red IS a frightening colour for the autobox.

The box is designed to work on Dexron 2 which is clear in colour. Even Dexron 3 is not advised (it's not an improved replacement) due to the damage which can be caused (and if you do a search in technical there are a number of existing posts on this).

Now it may be that D2 is dyed red in your country and therefore there is not a problem but I'd check that if I was you. Also changing the autobox oil is not as straightforward as the engine so I do recommend you read through past technical posts using the forum search function.

Sorry to contradict, but Dexron 2 is most certainly red in colour. It's like pouring cherryade into your gearbox.

Yes Dexron II is most definitely Red in colour (very red) and usually turns brown if there is a problem with it, the nearest equivalent that is "clear" in colour would be a H32 Pure hydraulic oil.

[Slagtrooper]

I stopped doing things on the ride this week, because i choose to do the rest of repairs at a car wash in front of my house. Talked to the owner and he lend me his elevator at sundays, free of charge. And he have a free place for letting the BX rest, because my garage only fits one car and my aunt's car is resting outside. The price is a monthly bargain...
All of this will for sure, boost all my attempts for repairing it.

Washing below car, front subframe and octopus region - Finally it will become easier to find all the leaks.

I found a garage that i will work half-time at saturdays and it's owner is an autobox specialist. I think i will negotiate the fees as parts for the car, tools and specailly the knowledge to open and do a full repair to the box.

Yea, some more good news for this Brazilian BX

[Slagtrooper]

Can't resist. One more day tring to find problems and solutions.

Looking for the leaks i said earlier, found LHM at the floor in the security valve direction, passenger side [for UK drivers]. Now i'm focusing at the posts about that valve. The exit tube for that "T" above the LHM reservoir cover is intact, i (hope) that i isolated the area that needs some work. That will be acessible only with the car suspended at the elevator.
Found a cropped wire near the exhaust manifold (like it was cut by the exhaust heat) and i still don't know from where it was, the speedo cable is loose, nothing that i wasn't expecting...

About the autobox: Before trying some hard intervention, i will bet at the cable and stick adjustment, because not only the reverse gear isn't engaging, but the rear light too. I have to move the stick slowly to light it...

I think my blog is becoming a diary...

[RobC]

I expect the cropped wire near the exhaust manifold will either be for the oil temperature sensor (located in the sump, one wire goes to it) or the oil level sensor (located on the back of the engine block, two wires go to it).

Outside chance it could be related to your O2 (Lambda) sensor, if you have a cat?