RobC wrote: ↑Mon Jul 19, 2021 10:13 am
It does seem a bit strange- but I do find that it’s easy enough to do one pass of the screen without any washer fluid appearing, since it takes so long to pump from the front to back of the car.
Would obviously prefer a normal latched intermittent though.
Out of interest… How does the wash work on the estate- do you have to keep it held in? (Sorry to derail thread).
Yeah, I always found it a bit strange that the wiper can't be made to stay on too. Every other old car that I've been in has always had a way of making the wiper stay on, even if it's constant. (The old Fiat Uno springs to mind, where it was just constant on or off & it had a separate switch just for the washer pump).
Yes, in the estate, you have to hold the switch down to make it wash the window, so the same as the hatchback in that respect, but if you just press it & let go, then it clicks & turns the intermittent wipe on; similar to the neighbouring switches really.
Back OT, Another way to stop the washer pump every time that you press the switch would be to cut it's wire, & then put a momentary switch between the cut wire & live, so you'd have separate switches for the wiper & washer.
1992 Citroën BX 1.9 Diesel Meteor 4x4 - The Project.
1992 Citroën BX 1.9 TXD (with GTI engine; Mulleys old car) - Parts car.
2004 Citroën Xsara Desire. (Now gone).
2016 Ford Focus Zetec - Daily Driver. (Absolute bone shaker).
RobC wrote: ↑Mon Jul 19, 2021 10:13 am
It does seem a bit strange- but I do find that it’s easy enough to do one pass of the screen without any washer fluid appearing, since it takes so long to pump from the front to back of the car.
Would obviously prefer a normal latched intermittent though.
Out of interest… How does the wash work on the estate- do you have to keep it held in? (Sorry to derail thread).
Yeah, I always found it a bit strange that the wiper can't be made to stay on too. Every other old car that I've been in has always had a way of making the wiper stay on, even if it's constant. (The old Fiat Uno springs to mind, where it was just constant on or off & it had a separate switch just for the washer pump).
Yes, in the estate, you have to hold the switch down to make it wash the window, so the same as the hatchback in that respect, but if you just press it & let go, then it clicks & turns the intermittent wipe on; similar to the neighbouring switches really.
Back OT, Another way to stop the washer pump every time that you press the switch would be to cut it's wire, & then put a momentary switch between the cut wire & live, so you'd have separate switches for the wiper & washer.
Indeed I could, but I just want the wiper to be toggled on and off, for parking and manual intermittent wiping.
The offside steering rack gaiter has decided to not be one this week. I have a spare but I'm wondering how involved getting to it will be. It'll need doing ASAP so I don't condemn the whole rack.
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If its non pa's it's a piece of cake, just unscrew the track rod end from the rack, make a note of locknut position.
You can use cable ties to secure new boot access a little easier from underneath unless you have fingers of wizard I have a couple of new boots here if u want for the price of postage
90 BX Tzd turbo 294k SORN undergoing major surgery
90 BX Tzd turbo estate 46k awaiting surgery
65 Peugeot Boxer Van the new workhorse
52 Toyota Rav4 180k Bulletproof Jap reliability
rutter123 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 04, 2021 8:07 pm
If its non pa's it's a piece of cake, just unscrew the track rod end from the rack, make a note of locknut position.
You can use cable ties to secure new boot access a little easier from underneath unless you have fingers of wizard I have a couple of new boots here if u want for the price of postage
Cheers for that, I have a spare carried over from then the nearside was done. It's non-PAS which is a great help. What I've done for the moment is use a blob of superglue to hold it together and then place gaffa tape over the split. The roads on my commuite to work have just been resurfaced and I travel along the seafront for a small part of the journey so I'd like to keep as much material out as possible.
What might this be? It's a German thing and is mounted to the front slam bar. Someone has said to me it's a dim-dip resistor but I thought dim-dip was abandoned a few years before the car was built.
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Oh, and another thing. I'll need to jack the car up so that I can replace the gaiter. I've read around and it looks as if I'll want to jack the car up on the rear mounts for the front subframe. I want to look behind both front wheels so both will come off at the same time. However I'm concerned that if I jack up one corner and then the next, I'll bend the subframe out of shape. Would it be a good idea to jack the car up at the centre of the subframe, using a large heavy piece of wood as a spreader? The last thing I want to happen is cause damage which will immobilise the car, so I want to do it right first time if at all possible.
EDIT: Ideally I'd also like to remove the rear wheels so that I can remove the trims for refurbishment. What's a good way to centrally jack up the rear?
Why don’t you just jack it up how the manual advises?
Ie use the Citroen jack on the middle of the sill jacking point and place axle stand at front sill axle stand point, and then repeat for the other side? That’s what I always do.
Alternatively yes you can potentially spread the load using long piece of wood and trolley jack on front subframe, but even with wood spreading load I’ve slightly bent subframes that way (just aesthetic damage mind you, but still not ideal).
RobC wrote: ↑Fri Aug 06, 2021 5:22 pm
Why don’t you just jack it up how the manual advises?
Ie use the Citroen jack on the middle of the sill jacking point and place axle stand at front sill axle stand point, and then repeat for the other side? That’s what I always do.
Alternatively yes you can potentially spread the load using long piece of wood and trolley jack on front subframe, but even with wood spreading load I’ve slightly bent subframes that way (just aesthetic damage mind you, but still not ideal).
For safety I don't much fancy using the fossilised jack that came with the car and I'm not a fan of jacking vehicles up by the sills in general. This'll probably be anexeption as there's not many other places. What I do have, however, is a pair of axle stands I can lower the car onto. I'll need to make an adaptor out of wood so it doesn't split the sills' seams. I really should get 4 so I can support all 4 corners with the car off the ground, but I'd be concerned with all the weight on those 4 points of the sill. Should I really be that concerned?
Sills (and the official jacking points) can be bent/damaged unless care is taken to cushion the jack amd spread load. Personally, I avoid jacking there, and prefer to use rear (the flat bolt points) of the front subframe, and at the rear under the rectangular frame that surrounds the hydraulic rams. In both cases, a slab/block of thick timber to add grip, prevent damage, and spread the load.
Using the same points, the car can be supported in all four positions to get it totally off the ground, either with substantial blocks, or good quality axle stands.
I always use at least two separate means of support, and often a third, when working underneath. Even a removed wheel can be placed underneath somewhere as an insurance policy.
The BX is pretty lightweight as cars go, so lifting one end and both sides with a single beam is quite feasible, given a decent trolley jack. You're unlikely to bend a subframe that's properly bolted to the body, but don't lift the car with the front subframe front crossmember - it's not designed to support weight, just hold things in shape; use the rear of the subframe instead.
I don't like having to do a roadside wheel changes with original or scissor jacks, so now carry a compact trolley jack in the boot. The ones I have are "low profile" and have a collapsed height of just 80mm, so will get under somewhere useful even with a flat tyre.
white exec wrote: ↑Fri Aug 06, 2021 5:40 pm
Sills (and the official jacking points) can be bent/damaged unless care is taken to cushion the jack amd spread load. Personally, I avoid jacking there, and prefer to use rear (the flat bolt points) of the front subframe, and at the rear under the rectangular frame that surrounds the hydraulic rams. In both cases, a slab/block of thick timber to add grip, prevent damage, and spread the load.
Using the same points, the car can be supported in all four positions to get it totally off the ground, either with substantial blocks, or good quality axle stands.
I always use at least two separate means of support, and often a third, when working underneath. Even a removed wheel can be placed underneath somewhere as an insurance policy.
The BX is pretty lightweight as cars go, so lifting one end and both sides with a single beam is quite feasible, given a decent trolley jack. You're unlikely to bend a subframe that's properly bolted to the body, but don't lift the car with the front subframe front crossmember - it's not designed to support weight, just hold things in shape; use the rear of the subframe instead.
I don't like having to do a roadside wheel changes with original or scissor jacks, so now carry a compact trolley jack in the boot. The ones I have are "low profile" and have a collapsed height of just 80mm, so will get under somewhere useful even with a flat tyre.
Cheers for that. I'ver looked at an underbody view and I'm wondering where I place the beam and jack. Do I put it across on the main part or put it across where the rear bolt mounts are? I'm struggling to identify the rectangular frame you talk about on the rear. Having all 4 wheels off the ground will allow me to remove all of them so I can remove the trims and repaint them. At least, that's my hope.
I really think you’re overthinking this. In 21 years of BX ownership I’ve always used the official method and all has been absolutely fine.( If your sills aren’t rotten)
RobC wrote: ↑Fri Aug 06, 2021 6:56 pm
I really think you’re overthinking this. In 21 years of BX ownership I’ve always used the official method and all has been absolutely fine.( If your sills aren’t rotten)
I'm only making sure I've got the right idea before doing anything. That's all.
