clutch lever bolt

pitman · Post by **pitman** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:12 pm

Hi all,

I was wondering which BXs would have a clutch lever with a threaded rod/screw instead of the plain rod.

Initially, I got on my BX Diesel MKI with gearbox BE1 a plain rod. That one that falls easily out of place.

After a gearbox/clutch problem, my garage changed it for a lever with a screw (8mm diameter).
This screw broke after a month because the axis of the screw doesn't point directly into the hollow of the clutch fork.

I replaced this with a screw from a DIY shop about half a year ago. Now, I saw that this screw is slightly bent. So about 10 to 15 degrees. And now, the end of the screw points into the hollow.
Looks fine, but I don't know how dodgy this is. Depends much on the elasticity of the screw which I don't know.

Should I revert to an old lever with the plain rod?

I saw, that AEP DIRECT on ebay sells levers and bolts with a thread. So, I am wondering if those bolts point into the hollow of the fork, too, or not.
Could I use such a lever and bolt on my MKI, too?

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:30 pm

All BX n/a19d's use the same clutch arm and bolts. I've seen many DIY bolt and rod arangements.

They did a later style clutch arm with a strengthening bar in place, but you should still be able to use the same bolt.

If you don't have one, give me a shout.

Ken

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:21 am

I have replaced the lever on my 19RD with the re-inforced version as mentioned by Ken above ( as the old one was bending), but the little metal rod with the tapered ends remains in place. I think it would only fall out if the clutch cable snapped. It's been there for twenty two years as far as I know, and works well enough.

pitman · Post by **pitman** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 11:51 am

Well, one part of my question was who is using the version with a screw at all as the simple blank standard bolt can move freely around its axis and the version with the rigid screw cannot follow the movement of the hollow in the fork.

AEP DIRECT sells it for the BX but maybe it's a senseless and ill-fated construction as the one I got already.

Ken said he has seen many DIY solutions. Probably, the AEP DIRECT falls into the same category.

pitman · Post by **pitman** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 2:13 pm

Just an update on this.

As last Sunday afternoon broke this "ill-faited construction" (yes, the clutch lever broke ...

), just 100 yards away from the garage who fitted this once and one day after Ms. BX's 23th birthday, I ordered one from AEP on ebay and one from the local Citroen dealer.

Just to have one fitted and one in reserve as you can swap this easily on the road within 5 minutes ...

And surprise surprise: this "ill-faited construction" is now the official spare-part from Citroen ...

With parts number 96134964, you get exactly the same strange thing from a Citroen dealer as from AEP.

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 6:17 pm

if your going through them that fast (sounds like something is knackered) then you could just change the whole selector arm for a pull type could you not? ie the one without said bolt, bracket, doodle?

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:09 pm

the corect fitting should be a threaded adjuster boult with a cupped head, this is screwed into the end of the actuater arm, then a staight rod with two domed ends which just lays between the actuater arm and the fork,

if someone has exchanged the rod for a length of threaded rod, i would have thought this would lay in the same place as the original rod,

then if this or the original pushrod is at an acute angle, it usuale means the clutch is on its last legs, or something is breaking

regards malcolm

ps.
can you stick a picy of what you have off and on the car

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:37 pm

citronut wrote:the corect fitting should be a threaded adjuster boult with a cupped head

Given the reason for the domed head (i assume it is domed and not cupped), then presumably if someone has just whacked a length of bar stock, or regular bolt in, then the end is going to bind against the clutch lever arm. I reckon that would happily bend the bolt/threaded bar over time.

pitman · Post by **pitman** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:05 pm

Vanny wrote:if your going through them that fast (sounds like something is knackered) then you could just change the whole selector arm for a pull type could you not? ie the one without said bolt, bracket, doodle?

Over 21 years I had a massive L-shaped clutch lever arm and a rod without thread.
Then, I got this strangely welded thin lever thing that lasts about a year.

I'll see how to get an old-style lever. I still have the original pushrod.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:35 pm

yes Vanny
the push rod is domed at both ends, one end sits in the dished/cupped fork end, the other sits in the cupped/dished head of the adjuster bolt

regards malcolm

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 12:49 pm

I'm well aware that the standard blind bar is domed at both ends, i was talking about the threaded bolt. If some one has done a retro fit of the threaded bolt, and the end isn't domed, then that would well cause binding and the eventual failure that is being experienced.

I have a number of spare push rods, just incase i should ever have a BE1 style clutch linkage again, but i'm hoping not!

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 2:15 pm

ok sorry Vanny translated your post

regards malcolm