awful burning smell

[Kitch]

The brakes are easy to sort, even for a novice.

Pull the pin out, slide the rail outwards (may need persuading with heavy tool) and lever the pads out. Remeber to release the handbrake first

When the pads are out, DON'T push the brake pedal. Try pushing and pulling the caliper....it should slide freely and easily with little effort on its sliders. If it doesn't, you'll need to remove the bolts which act as the pins and clean them up with wet & dry and some WD40. Then apply copper grease and refit.

Ensure you've got the locking rail in the right way up...did mine half asleep once and put it in upside down. Pads fell out when I got to work next day...not good.

Remember the pistons don't just push back in, they wind aswell. There are tools to make this easier, or just use a big screwdriver on its side and lever it while swearing a bit.

MAy also be worth cleaning up the area the pads sit and making sure it's all smooth and grit-free to allow them to move.

Only thing I struggle with is anti-rattle clips, which I can never get back in. I've left them out for 5 years now....all that happens is that it clunks when I hit the brakes while reversing I'll sort it one day, but the pads are perfectly secure on my own car.

[DavidRutherford]

Tools to remove caliper bolts, wet & dry, WD40, copper grease, big screwdriver

I suspect, from what Boxwolf has said about his mechanical skills and equipment, that he has none of the above....

[Kitch]

Tools to remove caliper bolts, wet & dry, WD40, copper grease, big screwdriver

I suspect, from what Boxwolf has said about his mechanical skills and equipment, that he has none of the above....

Couple of quid and 15mins in Halfrauds though? If you wanted to fix your car, that's not too much to ask.

Is it?

[Boxwolf]

The brakes are easy to sort, even for a novice.
Pull the pin out, slide the rail outwards (may need persuading with heavy tool) and lever the pads out. Remeber to release the handbrake first

I have successfully removed and unstuck the caliper previously, and I'm able to get to the sliders in about an hour. I might be able to do the same again but I want to ensure they don't stick again if I do.

Try pushing and pulling the caliper....it should slide freely and easily with little effort on its sliders. If it doesn't...

What if it does?

wet & dry and some WD40. Then apply copper grease and refit.

I think I have WD40, but not sure about the others.

Ensure you've got the locking rail in the right way up...did mine half asleep once and put it in upside down. Pads fell out when I got to work next day...not good.

Yep I did this once too, and both pads ejected over a bump so I had to refit them.

Remember the pistons don't just push back in, they wind aswell. There are tools to make this easier, or just use a big screwdriver on its side and lever it while swearing a bit.

I can verify the swearing bit, without the right size screwdriver its a real pain.

Only thing I struggle with is anti-rattle clips, which I can never get back in. I've left them out for 5 years now....all that happens is that it clunks when I hit the brakes while reversing I'll sort it one day, but the pads are perfectly secure on my own car.

I'm okay with these, it is tricky at first but I can usually get them back on fine.

[mat_fenwick]

Remember the pistons don't just push back in, they wind aswell. There are tools to make this easier, or just use a big screwdriver on its side and lever it while swearing a bit.

I made my own tool to do this from an old screwdriver shaft, a penny washer and a nut. Makes it very easy to turn with a ratchet spanner. The only downside is if the pads are very worn, it won't fit between the piston and the disc. I think I'll have to make a Mark 2 (slimmer) version someday...

[DavidRutherford]

The only downside is if the pads are very worn, it won't fit between the piston and the disc.

That never happens though, does it?



0.05mm in case you're wondering.....

[docchevron]

Plenty of life left in that!
Good ofr a family holiday to Cornwall at least...er hang on...

My mate had a xanty activa, ran the brakes so low the piston went through the disc and it exploded in truely spectacular fashion.
I had told him several months previous the brakes were shot, but he carried on regardless.

In his quest to save a few bob, it cost him, discs, pads and calipers, and could have cost him his life.

[mat_fenwick]

I came across a situation, not as bad as that though, where the piston was just about to break through to the centre of the (vented) disc. The car had started making a grinding sound about 6 months previously, shortly after it had been driven onto a beach. The owner's husband had told her "it's sand in the brakes" and not to worry about it. I was shocked when I took the wheel off to investigate, even more shocked that someone had (clearly) cut the leads to the wear indicators.

[Boxwolf]

wear indicators on my car had been disconected some point before I bought it, may have to solder them back together at some stage.

So does everyone reckon I should pull the caliper off and use WD40 and copperslip on the sliders? I know theres an opinion that shouldn't touch it so I'm not sure. Also, considering the gaiters on the sliders are split will that not cause them to sieze up again due to dirt getting in?

[mat_fenwick]

Every set of (front) brake pads I've bought for the BX has had wear indicators supplied in the box…
The split bellows won't help the long term situation, but cleaning and copper grease should improve things for the moment. I can't see what you could get wrong by doing the job yourself, but only you can really judge that!

[Way2go]

wear indicators on my car had been disconected some point before I bought it, may have to solder them back together at some stage.

Why would they need soldering? The connections are made by push connectors into a joining block.

[MULLEY]

I presume that the wires need soldering as they have been cut, just like on some of my cars

[Boxwolf]

I presume that the wires need soldering as they have been cut, just like on some of my cars

Correct, the wires to the joining block have been cut.

remove the bolts which act as the pins

How would I do this, should I screw the big screws into them and pull? and how should I get the gaiters off to allow this without them tearing even more?

[Way2go]

I presume that the wires need soldering as they have been cut, just like on some of my cars

Correct, the wires to the joining block have been cut.

Strange! Must have been real bodgers working on the cars before as they only need pulling out of the connector which is nearby.

Anyway, you get new leads with the new pads so you still shouldn't need to solder - just pull the old leads out and push the new ends in!

[MULLEY]

Mine were cut above the plug part, so the pad wires were connected upto the plug, just not higher up