Battery Warning Light

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:07 pm

Hmmm, noticed that on occasion when starting the car the light is on, once driving a short distance it then goes out. Any ideas on what might be the problem? Today the light wasn't on when i started up the car, possible electrical glitch?

Linegeist · Post by **Linegeist** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:15 pm

The light is controlled by the small electrical connector that goes into the back of the alternator Matthew.

Nine times out of ten, cleaning that terminal/waggling it about a bit/anointing it with contact cleaner solves the disappearing ignition light thing ............

If that doesn't work, then it'll either be a loose connection in the ignition light circuit (or worn brushes) or a simple fault inside the alternator control pack.

This fault's rarely expensive IME.

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 6:26 pm

I'll try the cleaning waggling bit 1st, cheers

It didnt come on at all today, so will keep an eye out if it reappears before i do the above.

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:20 pm

or it could be as I recent found out be simply a faulty fuse!

Or could be the battery on its way to the great recyling plant

smiffy1071 · Post by **smiffy1071** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:53 am

Remember, it was a VERY cheap alternator!!
If it's starting to let go, then you have had your money's worth out of it....
(3 for £10 at Gaydon)
Do your lights sometimes appear to get brighter for a split second when driving at night?

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:15 pm

kiwi wrote:or it could be as I recent found out be simply a faulty fuse!

Or could be the battery on its way to the great recyling plant

I'd say connector too. It's nothing to do with the battery, it's all the alternator.

If in doubt, chop the connector off and crimp a new one on.

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 7:35 pm

Yes, it was very cheap.

The problem seems to have dissapeared

Still keeping an eye out for the light & will post up if it re-appears again, perhaps it was just a dirty contact which when i removed it & re-connected it, gently cleaned it better.

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:42 am

Kitch wrote:
If in doubt, chop the connector off and crimp a new one on.

But don't use those shitty pre-insulated spade terminals with the blue, red or yellow insulation - you'll be swapping one possible bad connection for another one...

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 9:57 am

KevR wrote:
Kitch wrote:
If in doubt, chop the connector off and crimp a new one on.
But don't use those shitty pre-insulated spade terminals with the blue, red or yellow insulation - you'll be swapping one possible bad connection for another one...

What's wrong with those then? We use hundreds at work each month and never have a problem.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 10:43 am

If they're crimped well (ideally with a ratchet crimper rather than the 99p pressed steel crimper) then they work well - if done correctly then wire should give before the crimp. If in exposed places they can (like all crimps) suffer from oxidisation but would be fine for a reasonable length of time.
In some ways a soldered crimp is ideal, but unless covered with a good length of heatshrink the wire can fracture internally where the solder ends. And sometimes life is too short for all that, especially if you're trying to eliminate the cause of a fault.

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 1:16 pm

I used to use the pre-insulated ones, and yes, I've got the correct ratchet pliers. But they're still pants compared to a proper crimp terminal which crimps the insulation and the wire separately (but at the same time), again using ratchet pliers but with different jaws. Then you slip a waterproof clear plastic cover over the top (so long as you remembered to put it on the wire before crimping the terminal...) Job done and will last forever. Have never seen or had a problem with these terminals, but I've seen and had innumerable problems with the pre-insulated type. Non-insulated terminals themselves cost pennies (Vehicle Wiring Products is probably the best place to get them). And with the crimp pliers for these you can also make up proper connector blocks that are as good as anything that the factories use, including superb AMP Superseal connectors which are used for marine and motorsport use.

Pic shows three terminals: pre-insulated, non-insulated and non-insulated with a blob of solder. I know which I'd back to not leave me stranded on the hard shoulder somewhere...

Post by **Defender110** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 1:40 pm

^

Totally agree 100%, the quick crimps are pants and althought I do have to use them occasionaly on vehicles at work I won't ever use them on my own vehicles.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:02 pm

Almost agree with all of that

But of the 3 you've pictured, the two better crimps will corrode faster as they are not tinned. Mind you, so will the wires!

For what it's worth, I use the blue/red/yellow crimps for interior wiring, or temporary underbonnet stuff, although I've not run into problems even when temporary has stretched to years!

Last time I was after connectors, I found Simtek slightly cheaper than VWP, so maybe worth a look.

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 3:11 pm

KevR wrote:I used to use the pre-insulated ones, and yes, I've got the correct ratchet pliers. But they're still pants compared to a proper crimp terminal which crimps the insulation and the wire separately (but at the same time), again using ratchet pliers but with different jaws. Then you slip a waterproof clear plastic cover over the top (so long as you remembered to put it on the wire before crimping the terminal...) Job done and will last forever. Have never seen or had a problem with these terminals, but I've seen and had innumerable problems with the pre-insulated type. Non-insulated terminals themselves cost pennies (Vehicle Wiring Products is probably the best place to get them). And with the crimp pliers for these you can also make up proper connector blocks that are as good as anything that the factories use, including superb AMP Superseal connectors which are used for marine and motorsport use.

Pic shows three terminals: pre-insulated, non-insulated and non-insulated with a blob of solder. I know which I'd back to not leave me stranded on the hard shoulder somewhere...

Well it doesn't help that the one on the right looks like it's been crimped by a monkey! It's been squeezed in the wrong place and the wire is poking out the end.
I've found the pre-insulated ones fine aslong as you remove the right amount of sleeving and use the right size connector. And obviously the right crimping tool.

Obviously the gold ones are better, but you need a different tool to fit them properly and heat shrink to insulate them. Then theres cost to factor in....fine if you're doing three, but not so great if you're doing lots.

I've got pre-insulated ones all over my car, including the exciter wire. Never had an issue....it's the original crispy 1990's French wiring that gives me jip!

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 3:57 pm

Kitch wrote: Well it doesn't help that the one on the right looks like it's been crimped by a monkey!

It was - me! But then so were the others.

Kitch wrote: It's been squeezed in the wrong place and the wire is poking out the end. I've found the pre-insulated ones fine aslong as you remove the right amount of sleeving and use the right size connector. And obviously the right crimping tool.

Wire's poking out the end, true, but that won't affect the strength/conductivity of the joint. Not squeezed in the wrong place, squeezed with proper ratchet double-crimp tool in the only place it CAN be squeezed. Looks odd because it's a poxy little ring connector and out of proportion, but that's all I had in the box.

Kitch wrote:Obviously the gold ones are better, but you need a different tool to fit them properly and heat shrink to insulate them. Then theres cost to factor in....fine if you're doing three, but not so great if you're doing lots.

Same tool, different jaws. Don't need heat shrink - as I said earlier, separate flexible plastic cover fits over. Price from VWP for 50 pre-insulated 6.3mm female terminals with insulation on crimp only: £2.76. Price for 50 pre-insulated with full covers: £3.42. Price for 50 non-insulated 6.3mm female terminals plus full covers: £2.69.

Kitch wrote:I've got pre-insulated ones all over my car, including the exciter wire. Never had an issue...

So long as you're happy.... But if it's no more difficult or expensive to do the job properly, I'd rather do it properly...