Need to change my cambelt on my TZD

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:12 am

you mean it is possible if/when the lower plastic cover is missing,

i would think it is very very tight to get the belt passed the pulley,

regards malcolm

JayW · Post by **JayW** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 9:37 am

It would go with a significant amount of twisting/chaffing... NOT what i'd like to do with such a critical component

Besides, with all the crap that goes down there you'll not be wanting to run with the cover missing!

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 3:50 pm

Furry nuff! However, pulley removal has been dealt a blow as I can't find my 22mm socket. Pretty sure I do own one. Found the 21mm and the 23mm...

Also, I've been sent the wrong water pump. Given up for the day!

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:51 am

With the correct water pump now sent, I got back on this job. I also found my 22mm socket. The best technique to undo it turned out to be using a long scaffold tube on a knuckle-bar wedged against the floor of the garage. A friend used a long stick to hold the socket square on the nut and I used a burst of starter to get it undone. Scary but it worked! Was getting dark last night though and I was really struggling to get the three M8 bolt holes lined up, so waiting for the next burst of enthusiasm.

Post by **Defender110** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:19 am

They all only line up once for every 2 turns of the engine, if they are not all lined up turn the crank another full turn to line up the crank and cam holes. If after the crank and cam are lined the pump is slightly out of line then it could be a pump timing issue or the belt has jumped a tooth which would also be the problem if you can't get both the crank and cam holes lined up. But the car wouldn't be running or would be running very rough if it had jumped a tooth.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 11:47 am

Thanks Kevan. While stumped by the 22mm bolt yesterday, I did screw in the three bolts, so I know it's possible. I'm full of cold today, so job is on hold.

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 1:14 pm

Tip, if you don't have the correct size socket, or you are not able to remove the crank pulley bolt, then:

Just remove the bottom plastic cover from the engine block (2 small bolts (II RC), then the belt will come off.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 7:12 pm

Brian wrote:Tip, if you don't have the correct size socket, or you are not able to remove the crank pulley bolt, then:

Just remove the bottom plastic cover from the engine block (2 small bolts (II RC), then the belt will come off.

not a good idea as firstly you dont want to be forceing the belt into place between the crank pully and crank case, pluss you dont want to get a load of gritty gundge into the teeth of the belt, from around the crank pully/case,

regards malcolm

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:14 pm

Fairly easy to do, rubbish on the old belt when removing.

Then it gives a chance to give the area a good clean before fitting the new belt.
Have done it several times, no problems so far.

RxBX · Post by **RxBX** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 11:52 pm

Brian wrote:Tip, if you don't have the correct size socket, or you are not able to remove the crank pulley bolt, then:

Just remove the bottom plastic cover from the engine block (2 small bolts (II RC), then the belt will come off.

Brian wrote:Fairly easy to do, rubbish on the old belt when removing.

Then it gives a chance to give the area a good clean before fitting the new belt.
Have done it several times, no problems so far.

That's the method I use to Brian (Why waste-time/effort removing the crankshaft bolt/pulley) never had problems with access in refitting a new belt or picking up any crap (Prior to giving a good clean down local to bottom pulley crankshaft area) note that I'm referring this experience to the XUD7/9 engines (As the O/P title refers to a TZD Diesel unit) it may be different for the petrol engines !

.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 7:48 am

each to there own i spoz

regards malcolm

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 1:16 pm

Belt is off, though I really struggled to loosen the tensioner. Now seem to have another problem though - water pump is off but while it looks pretty similar to the new one, the old impeller is a good 1cm larger than the new one. Have I got the wrong pump?

Gasket was a right state, which helps explain where the leak was coming from.

I can't say I've been enjoying this job. Everything is a pain in the arse to get at. My knuckles are a right state.

Post by **Defender110** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 1:27 pm

Dollywobbler wrote: I can't say I've been enjoying this job. Everything is a pain in the arse to get at. My knuckles are a right state.

Yes the first time doing the belt on a transverse engine is always a steep learning curve, hopefully the job satisfaction when done will help heal the scars

The only difference in the impellar on the last one I did was the new genuine Citroen water pump had a plastic impellar instead of brass type alloy.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 1:43 pm

It's not unknown for the impeller to corrode or erode away - does the old one look like it was manufactured smaller? If the new one fits without fouling the block then I wouldn't be concerned.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 1:49 pm

mat_fenwick wrote:It's not unknown for the impeller to corrode or erode away - does the old one look like it was manufactured smaller? If the new one fits without fouling the block then I wouldn't be concerned.

No, the OLD pump is larger. I s'pose it should still work? Just a bit wary as it's a lot of faff and potentially a popped head gasket to find out it doesn't...