A liitle stiff in the morning...

[Philip Chidlow]

Now, now....

Both my BXs are showing their age... One of them's auto box is a little sluggish until it warms up a bit - takes about 300 yards and then its fine. I think I should leave that alone. (Unless it gets worse). It creaks a bit when rising from cold (don't we all) but again, I don't think I need do anything yet (or does it?)

The other one though has developed a similar 'waking up in the morning' problem. The PAS is intermittent for the first half mile or so - and again once it's warmed up it's fine. Is there something I can easily do to rectify this or indeed stop it getting worse?

Finally the ride is a bit harsher on this BX and although I believe the spheres are all OK - it had them all specialist checked in December and I had a new accumulator sphere fitted too - I wondered if it's something I can improve.

I assume this is all nothing serious, but just because both cars are 15 yrs old... however, as I intend to keep them (well at least one)...

[ken newbold]

You could try changing the LHM, that may help with the steering problem. Failing that, fit a new pump. Sounds like yours is getting tired. This wouldn't help with the quality of ride though, that may be down to your struts or spheres.

If in doubt, fit new ones.

[jeremy]

What fluid have you got in the autobox? AlanS has gone into the differences between Dexron 11 and Dexron 111 - and form what you say it could be you have 111 in your box when you should have 11. I recommend you search for the topic on here and the Frenchcarforum and if necessary change the fluid ASAP.

I agree that a weak pump will affect the steering on startup - steering requires a very high volume of fluid which a tired pump may not be able to provide. New LHm may help - but you must expect it to last 2 years.

The poor ride might be a sticky height corrector - they seem very sensitive to minor differences. Does it feel better if you raise it forst then drop it?

jeremy

[Philip Chidlow]

I'll have a check, Jeremy. I think there is a growing list of things to do and the transmission fluid is one of them. But how do I tell what's in there? I will check previous posts...

[AlanS]

I'll have a check, Jeremy. I think there is a growing list of things to do and the transmission fluid is one of them. But how do I tell what's in there? I will check previous posts...

Usually pretty easy to see if it's wrong stuff as DEx3 goes black really quickly.
The oil spec is Dexron "D-2" or if you can get Castrol, Transmax M (definitely not Z)
We find that it pays to drain and refill with the D2 a couple of times within say 50 miles or so to get rid of the Dex111 if it's been contaminated. Out here they were all of the opinion that 11 & 111 were upgraded versions of the original Dexron fluid but they are totally different and with the habit of doing it out here, they do transmissions at the rate of about one every 90 - 150K klms when used constantly.
It takes around 2.5 litres to do a change and after say 3 changes, then I finally added some G60 Nulon auto transmission additive which smoothed things right off.
If it's done biggish miles, I'd suggest removing the base plate (you need to move the P/R across to get proper access and you'll find a magnet sitting on the bottom that will be covered in metal dust and is washable by just pulling off the bottom.
Remove the cover for the filter but be sure you make up something (an old shoe box worked well for us) and be certain to push the screws into holes punched in it so they go back where they come from as they are different lengths and can stuff things if not relocated back in their original spots. Wash the filter in petrol, it looks like an LHM tank filter - same material, and refit.
Also check the adjustment on the kickdown cable. Don't ask me why, but that adjustment is highly critical to the overall performance of the transmission and it has to have free play between the end of the outer cable and the nipple on the cable. This needs to be around .5mm (thumbnail thickness almost.)
If you find it has the correct fluid in it, then I'd suggest another change might be due anyway, so do a dump and refill with Transmax M and on the second fill ad the Nulon additive and I'd reckon you'll be surprised at just how smooth it will be. The hanging on when cold sounds very fluid related one way or the other.
As you are no doubt aware, they take about 6 litres for a full fill up but only around 2.5 litres come out on a drain so only 2.5 approx needs to go in.
Level is also critical and I expect you know how to check for correct level (warm, engine running, car in neutral or park and immediately aftrer it's been changed several times) and loss of drive in forward gears is usually too little fluid and thumping changes a sign of too much.


Alan S

[Philip Chidlow]

What a comrehensive reply. Cheers. I will print it out and thrust it under the nose of my 'man'... A job like this might be a bit too much for me to tackle...

[AlanS]

What a comrehensive reply. Cheers. I will print it out and thrust it under the nose of my 'man'... A job like this might be a bit too much for me to tackle...

That was the short version!!


Alan S

[Philip Chidlow]