Brake pipes and clutch noise
Brake pipes and clutch noise
Hello all...........After many bx less years I have finally given in and bought a 92 BX estate1900 TGD. I cant believe how they get under your skin..is there a cure|??. However after having it checked at my local citroen specialist he gives me good and bad news
Good: The rear arms are in great shape and the suspension is relativly good apart from a quick rear end sag after parking which as I rember is'nt too much of a problem. The engine is a corker and pulls like a train and all round its clean
Bad: The brake pipes are rusty on the passenger rear (theres a suprise!!) the front struts are a bit spongy (1.5 times bounce on testing) and theres a very slight leak on the valve that sits in thre front middle of the car under the sphere. Now the nasty one...even though the prev owner assures me (I,ve seen the bills) the clutch was replaced a year ago it judders a bit on takeoff and theres a high pitched whistle that can only be cured if you slightly depress the pedal or lift the pedal back with your foot...Thrust bearing???
The question is whats the best way to repair without too much expense. I bought it mostly as a car to use for fishing as the missus objects to the smell in our family car!! What I dont want and cant afford is huge bills that make the very reasonable cost of buying it a nonsense. Can anyone help/advise. I would be most appreciative if you could suggest a path and cost estimate
Thanks (by the way it looks a great and friendly site )
Good: The rear arms are in great shape and the suspension is relativly good apart from a quick rear end sag after parking which as I rember is'nt too much of a problem. The engine is a corker and pulls like a train and all round its clean
Bad: The brake pipes are rusty on the passenger rear (theres a suprise!!) the front struts are a bit spongy (1.5 times bounce on testing) and theres a very slight leak on the valve that sits in thre front middle of the car under the sphere. Now the nasty one...even though the prev owner assures me (I,ve seen the bills) the clutch was replaced a year ago it judders a bit on takeoff and theres a high pitched whistle that can only be cured if you slightly depress the pedal or lift the pedal back with your foot...Thrust bearing???
The question is whats the best way to repair without too much expense. I bought it mostly as a car to use for fishing as the missus objects to the smell in our family car!! What I dont want and cant afford is huge bills that make the very reasonable cost of buying it a nonsense. Can anyone help/advise. I would be most appreciative if you could suggest a path and cost estimate
Thanks (by the way it looks a great and friendly site )
- sleepy0905
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The bottom (and other) engine/gearbox mounts can influence the clutch behaviour. If you look a the bottom one from besides the drivers door with the engine running you will get a good idea if it has disintegrated. It can be replaced in situ - I have done it.
I'd reserve judgement on the bearing noise for a little while. The clutch is quite exposed and it may have got damp and rusted a bit.
Genuine Citroen pipes are nicely made - being very accurately bent - and are not that expensive. Probably easier than making your own - if you can get the appropriate tool!
I'd clean off the regulator (accumulator is mounted on it) and make sure the pipes are properly secured and coming out of the thing nice and straight. The nuts should NOT be very tight - a pull on an ordinary (short) spanner is about right.
jeremy
I'd reserve judgement on the bearing noise for a little while. The clutch is quite exposed and it may have got damp and rusted a bit.
Genuine Citroen pipes are nicely made - being very accurately bent - and are not that expensive. Probably easier than making your own - if you can get the appropriate tool!
I'd clean off the regulator (accumulator is mounted on it) and make sure the pipes are properly secured and coming out of the thing nice and straight. The nuts should NOT be very tight - a pull on an ordinary (short) spanner is about right.
jeremy
Thanks for that....its appreciated
some supplementories if I may
Rough cost of brake pipes and a source??
rough price of fdv and source(i,m 6 miles from Plaedes!!!)
If sourcing from scrapyard (for FDV) are there any clues to geting a good one
Likewise for the struts
Do the front struts actually go us or are they servicable
I must be a a sucker for pain as I actually am looking forward to doing it up. I remember some hairy moments from the past (10 miles bottomed out without power steering brakes or suspension!!, slipping on a new puddle of LHM on the drive and getting concussion, yehhhh maybe thats the reasson...brain damage!!
some supplementories if I may
Rough cost of brake pipes and a source??
rough price of fdv and source(i,m 6 miles from Plaedes!!!)
If sourcing from scrapyard (for FDV) are there any clues to geting a good one
Likewise for the struts
Do the front struts actually go us or are they servicable
I must be a a sucker for pain as I actually am looking forward to doing it up. I remember some hairy moments from the past (10 miles bottomed out without power steering brakes or suspension!!, slipping on a new puddle of LHM on the drive and getting concussion, yehhhh maybe thats the reasson...brain damage!!
Welcome to the forum daneinter. Pleiades sell the pipes made-up for the BX. I think they charge about £10 per pipe for the long pipes. They also sell the bare pipe by the meter for about £1.40 per meter but the flaring tool seems to be quite expensive. Why not give Martin Dunn a ring on 01487 831239 or drop in and see him since you are so close.
David
BX19TRS 118K E Reg 1992-2008
BX19TRS auto abs 96k F Reg
BX19TXD 150k K Reg
BX19TRS 118K E Reg 1992-2008
BX19TRS auto abs 96k F Reg
BX19TXD 150k K Reg
Phoned Pleiades as suggested and quite a pleasant suprise.£11 quid for the long sections and terrific service as well. Got quite a shock to hear they have shut down the garage though. I suppose the general population dont share our feelings for these French fancies! Hes keeping the mailorder bit going though.
In anyones experience does it harm to just replace the bad bit.
I,m still a bit bemused by the strut business though..Local garage says they are shot and I do remember having serious probs in the past by the return pipes blowing off...made the mistake of cable tying them on once and then blew out in the depths of the engine.
My understanding is that a semi hard ride is nearly always spheres and struts produce wallow, its nothing too bad, just a little harsh on rough roads, can anyone comment?
In anyones experience does it harm to just replace the bad bit.
I,m still a bit bemused by the strut business though..Local garage says they are shot and I do remember having serious probs in the past by the return pipes blowing off...made the mistake of cable tying them on once and then blew out in the depths of the engine.
My understanding is that a semi hard ride is nearly always spheres and struts produce wallow, its nothing too bad, just a little harsh on rough roads, can anyone comment?
- ken newbold
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If the short pipes to the rear brakes and suspension cylinders look OK, examine them thoroughly and if OK leave them alone.
The brake pipes are easy enough to change and you will need to bleed the brakes afterwards in any case.
But the rear suspension pipes can be a problem, easy to fit but getting the old pipe nut out of the cylinder isn't always easy. Steel nuts in to alloy cylinders.
Same problem bleeding the rear brakes.
As for your struts, pull off the return pipes and see how much fluid they are passing. Yours sound more like spheres.
The brake pipes are easy enough to change and you will need to bleed the brakes afterwards in any case.
But the rear suspension pipes can be a problem, easy to fit but getting the old pipe nut out of the cylinder isn't always easy. Steel nuts in to alloy cylinders.
Same problem bleeding the rear brakes.
As for your struts, pull off the return pipes and see how much fluid they are passing. Yours sound more like spheres.
They think it's all over, it is now!