1988 1.9RD Estate

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robt
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Post by robt »

Had the day off work today so spent all day in the garage :) Being a novice with Citroen hydraulics I took my time and changed the accumulator, front spheres and removed the filters and reservoir and gave them a clean with petrol, as well as replacing with new LHM.

The easiest part was removing the spheres (I bought the proper tool off ebay) but they weren't seized on so took no time to do. The hardest bit I found was trying to remove the filters from the reservoir without breaking them, and also removing the reservoir itself from the engine bay without getting LHM everywhere! I tried bailing out into a smaller container but lost patience and just pulled it out, so spent a good half an hour mopping up the engine bay :roll:

It took quite a while building up pressure in the system as the whole car just wouldn't move, but eventually the front end went up and the rear followed. The rear still looks a bit low but atleast the clacking sound has gone now.

I still need to bleed the brakes as the pedal is solid and couldn't find the bleed nipple until after coming indoors I realised they are under a cover, I'll sort that out after work tomorrow (hopefully) and report back on how it drives. Reading Haynes it says you have to bleed the front different to the rear, is that true or yet more tales from the book of lies?!

Comedy moment of the day was getting the trolley jack stuck under the car when I first started it up after doing the work, and the hydraulics just woulnd't rise up. I wanted to throw in the towel at that point but instead jacked it up again, put a brick under the front wheel, removed the jack and pushed the car off the brick. Basic but effective!

Sorry there's no pics. I meant to take some but you know what it's like when you get stuck in to a job...
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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold »

I usually siphon off most of the LHM then unclip all the pipes from their mounting brackets before removing the filters and reservoir.

Yes, the rear brakes are different to bleed than the fronts. The fronts are bled in the normal way, but for the rears you need to put the suspension of high setting or at least get the rear suspension under a load situation. Then, with the engine running have someone press the brake pedal and the system will do the rest, pumping the the LHM though, you'll see the LHM change colour as you get some new "blood" flowing though.

Simples :D
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Post by robt »

Cheers Ken, I'll get the missus to be the pedal pusher tomorrow then.

Yes I made the reservoir job harder for myself by not disconnecting all the pipes first. Taking a photo would have been a good idea of course but I was too lazy to go back indoors and get my camera!
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Post by robt »

Just been for a run round the block with the new spheres on and, blimey, I've got a lovely floaty ride now :) And the added bonus is the struts aren't creaking so much now so it's a quieter drive, although the struts are next on my list to sort. And one noise is replaced by another - the clutch pedal is groaning so a bit of lubrication is called for there.

I managed to bleed the front brakes fine, but when I tried the back the nipples were siezed solid and one of them had been rounded off by someone else. The brakes are working fine though so I'll tackle the nips properly when I've got more time, rather than make them worse.

So a productive few days means I've got the car ready in time for a trip up to the NEC classic on Saturday!
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Post by MULLEY »

Try putting some lube where the thread part of the bleed nipples are on the rear brakes, then use some mole grips & gently try easing them to get them moving. Once you get a bit of movement, pop some more lube on them & go backwards & forwards & start to ease them off more & more with some lube & then you should hopefully be able to bleed them.

When i did Paul296's this weekend, i also gave the calipers a good wack with a hammer to shock them, which can also help. Make sure you don't shear them off, otherwise you'll be buxxered, take it slowly & gently & hopefully they'll move. Don't worry if the mole grips damage them, as long as you don't damage the thread you can do them up tightly again :D
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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

MULLEY wrote:Don't worry if the mole grips damage them, as you will of course be replacing them with undamaged nipples to help avoid the same problem next time.
Is that what you meant to say? :wink:
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2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
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Post by MULLEY »

I wouldn't bother as chances are that it'll be years before you need to bleed them again, so they'll be welded in like before?

Can the threads be copperslipped or will that get into the lhm & ruin it?
2002 C5 2.0 HDI Estate - Jasmine - Now SORN
2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD
2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement
1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - My daily
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired.
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN

I'm not just a username, i'm also called Matthew.
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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

Ah, but this time they'll be welded in AND pre rounded! :lol: You're probably right, but it makes me feel better, OK?

I'd wondered the same about copper grease, and figure that the nipple seal should keep any potential contamination from the fluid. I always give the nipples a wipe and a fresh smear whenever I take a wheel off, just to be on the safe side.
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Post by robt »

Thanks for the advice chaps, these trials are all part of old car ownership aren't they. I've put penetrant spray on for now and will tackle them when I get a spare moment.

My next job is to try and undo the front wheel studs. No doubt the previous owner had a kwik fit do the tyres and they didn't torque them properly :roll:
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Post by Kitch »

Welcome along mate. Nice estate there! It\'s probably been mentioned but the trims don\'t do it any favours! But the interior\'s spot on isn\'t it? They\'re good old buses, these.
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robt
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Post by robt »

Kitch wrote:Welcome along mate. Nice estate there! It's probably been mentioned but the trims don't do it any favours! But the interior's spot on isn't it? They're good old buses, these.
Cheers. I've got one proper trim but missed out on another 3 on ebay as I fell asleep before the bidding ended :lol: The interior was filthy when i got it so took a lot of cleaning, but it's proving comfortable and frugal transport.
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Post by robt »

It's been a while since I've been on here, but just a quick report to say the BX has been doing sterling, almost-daily service. A couple of weeks ago I did the grumbling strut trick by taking those pipes off and immersing in fluid whilst moving the suspension lever - it helped a bit but they are still grumbly, I'm just learning to live with it!

So far, the best aspects of BX ownership for me include the economy of the diesel, the smoothness of the engine (not sure if they're all like that or if I've just got a good 'un), the superb ride over speed humps of which there are many around here, and it's general quirkiness - the way you have to wait a few seconds for the car to rise in the morning still amuses me :) And it's quite chuckable too which I wasn't expecting, but this makes me drive it quite hard as I'm enjoying it so much!

I'm well and truly a ^^bx> convert now. Trouble is it was only meant as a winter hack but I might have to keep it a bit longer than that....
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

You will find these cars addictive. Enjoy :)
• 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo Hurricane
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Post by Dollywobbler »

They rattle a bit on tickover, but they do smooth out once you're on the way. They are very sharp in the handling department too! One of the best kept secrets of the 1980s I reckon.

The start up-lift off sensation still makes me grin and I bought my first BX in 1999! I really must get my Mk1 properly sorted as it's just not as good as it should be yet. Still a lot to do. Glad you're enjoying yours though!
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Post by robt »

Yeah the handling is superb I really do throw mine about, and considering how old it is now it's still pretty sharp. The PAS is weighted just right too.
I've just bought some new tyres for the front so once I've got them on it should handle and ride even better. I noticed the other day one of the rear ones only has the legal min of tread, and it's a winter tyre whereas all the others are normal!
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