TD spewing water all over

[TB2]

Hi everyone,

got my replacement stop solenoid, installed it and alas, the engine stops when asked to.

However, I went for a short drive (10 minutes) and when I checked the engine bay, there was quite a bit of coolant spelt all over the battery/LH sphere area.

The water clearly came from the small hole at the top of the water reservoir tank. The reservoir cap doesn't show any visible signs of wear.

Why does this happen and what can I do to fix it?



Two things I also noticed since I replaced the head gasket:
- engine output seems fine, it packs quite a punch just as it used to
- When inside the car, sometimes a noise can be heard coming from somewhere behind/below the dash. It's a sort of squishy noise as if there were air bubbles rushing through a pipe. I'm not sure if this is indeed the case, it might as well be a belt slipping but I don't think that's it.

Also, when refilling the cooling system after the gasket change, I followed haynes procedure to the letter, having removed the bleed screw from the thermostat housing and filling the system until water came out of it. Is spillage from the reservoir even a possible symptom of an improperly bled system?

Thanks guys.



PS: Are these the right glow plugs for my car? Well it does say XUD7TE which is pretty clear but all the plugs sold here are BERU or VEMO but BOSCH should be at least as good, no?

[BX Meteor]

I could be wrong, but all of what you describe sounds like cylinder pressure is getting into the water system, this is almost certainly one or more cylinders pushing gasses past the gasket into the water system.

You might have a slightly warped head, or block, and you may need to take the head off again and get the surfaces checked for flatness.

[ken newbold]

or cracked.

[citronut]

or maybe you just have air traped in the system from when you did the head gasket,

on refilling the cooling system i always start off by making sure the rad is full, till it comes out of the bung on the top right hand end when looking under the bonnet,
if you dont do this first you will get traped air in the rad,

regards malcolm

[JayW]

Also worth checking you haven't collapsed a hose during your tinkering. A lot of these hoses are at the age of delaminating when you start bending them about during maintenance.

It's also possible you've kinked a pipe, particularly the long one from the header tank along the back of the head & down by the turbo.

Oh, and there's always the suspect water pump possibility...

[TB2]

Lame.


So I guess I'll have to remove the head again. It's been skimmed by a professional so I don't think it's warped. I think it sits right as well. The pipes look fine to me and the waterpump is new. I guess I'll just triple check that the system is properly bled and if it is, I'll just have to fiddle around for another day, removing the head again and all that.

I'm just an amateur

[citronut]

after re/bleeding the system make sure all the hose's are fully hot and the rad is evenly hot all over (top to bottom)

then wait for the rad fan/s to cut in and back out, now gently open the rad/header tank cap to see if its calm,

sometimes on the first oppening it might chuck up, then run it up a second time after topping back up, and re/open the cap,

if it still chucks up there is something elss wrong

did you have the head presure tested whilst it was off,

regards malcolm

[Dollywobbler]

I'll agree with Citronut here. I've done a fair bit of draining and refilling on mine and it can take a while to settle down, with pressure shoving water out initially in rather an alarming manner. I've found squeezing the heater hoses helps 'burp' air out of the system, as well as the top hose.

Is your heater working properly? Until properly bled, mine had no heat.

[Defender110]

I sometimes take the temp sender units out too to make sure the thermostat housing is full of water and not trapped air.

[bx petrol auto saloon]

Dear Carl.
I would always take the top radiator hose off near to the thermostat
housing and also have the heater control set onto the hot position while
you are slowly filling the cooling system. Then it is imperative that you
leave the radiator cap off when you start the car and leave it off until
the thermostat has opened. Then you can put it back on and run it up
to check the cooling fan is working correctly.
Hope this helps Carl
Vince.

[Mothman]

Thanks to guys on this forum, i have always used a 2 ltr coke/ lemonade plastic bottle taped to the top of the rad filler with gaffer tape filled with water once the rad was topped up. Then whilst the engine was running gone through all the usual bleed screws[not sure if there is one on a TD] untill water flowed. Also squeased all the pipes as well and then looked at the rad with the cap off to see if there are any bubbles.

When the motor is cold, is there any pressure in the system when you take the cap off the rad or expansion container? If so, gasket possibly blown. Bubbles in rad then it probbably is.

Andy

[Sportsman]

The Reason for checking even heat on the radiator ensures the thermostat is open which can produce those symptons (dont remove the head yet!)

[citronut]

if the rad and all the pipes/hose's are evenly hot the system will be full of coolant,

retgards malcolm

[Defender110]

if the rad and all the pipes/hose's are evenly hot the system will be full of coolant,

retgards malcolm

What about the rad / bottom hoses being cool at the bottom and hot at the top the way the cooling system is designed ?

[Sportsman]

Radiator should be hot all over as the water is beeing pumped around the system when the stat is open it does not work like the old no pump vehicles.