Rear End Lift

Post by **Tim Leech** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 4:58 pm

Defender110 wrote:
Roverman wrote: How easy is to bleed the brakes? I confess I havent ever changed the LHM on it.
Depends if your bleed nipples undo easily, mine did but they hadn't been tampered with or overtightened in the past. Use a six pont spanner or socket to initially free them off to prevent rounding them off. You need to take your rear wheels off to get to the nipples and put the hubs on blocks to simulate the wheels being on the ground. Once you've cracked the nipple put a little rubber tube on the nipple and bleed it into a bottle.

Ok Kevan thanks for that, think I may get someone to do it for me, I have a tendency to snap most bleed nipples off!

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 5:09 pm

You'd be doing whoever does the job for you a favour if you spray a little penetrating oil on the nipples a day or two before the job occurs.

Mickey taker · Post by **Mickey taker** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 5:12 pm

Dollywobbler wrote: spray a little penetrating oil on the nipples a day or two before the job occurs.

Tom, leave it !!!!!

Post by **Tim Leech** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 5:18 pm

Mickey taker wrote:
Dollywobbler wrote: spray a little penetrating oil on the nipples a day or two before the job occurs.
Tom, leave it !!!!!

Mick, behave, good advice Ian, will do, will probably change the whole LHM while I am at it.

saintjamesy89 · Post by **saintjamesy89** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:04 pm

Nipples? Bleeding? Penetration? Oil? Aagh, aaaah, eugh, oooh, urgh. Phew, moment passed, and successfully resisted - we're safe and still on topic.

Conclusion? Change LHM and perhaps bleed the system, kerching! I also hate bleeding brake systems, did it with my astra when my dad and I overhauled it's brake system, i'm sure ingesting brake fluid can't be good for you!

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:48 pm

Roverman wrote:Could be, yes it is Auto, also it seems like the brakes have a tiny bit of travel before they bite, and then they bite hard.

Cheers.

air in the brake system,

do you have to have rear end lift to release traped gas out from you kniples

regards malcolm

regards malcolm

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:42 pm

The rears can be a pain to shift, i had to use mole grips on Paul's & it was touch a go as to whether they were going to shear off or not, a well placed hammer blows to try & shock them & some wd40 to penetrate the threads & some wiggling eventually teased them to move. I'd managed to move them only a few months before & was expecting them to be easy to re-do, but no chance. The mole grips well & trully ate into the bleed nipples, so some replacements need fitting. Crap design tbh, i presume the fronts are easier as there is always heat going into the caliper which i can only presume stops them from seizing into the alloy?

BX Meteor · Post by **BX Meteor** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:16 pm

I think they used soft cheeses for both the caliper and the nipple, Camembert for the caliper and Vignotte for the nipple

electrokid · Post by **electrokid** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:37 pm

is there not a brake bias valve on bx's that balances out front/rear braking ?

When you put your foot on the brake pedal, the doseur sends and regulates main hydraulic pressure to the front brakes and also sends pressure from the rear suspension through to the rear brakes.

So the rear brakes are driven at the pressure in the rear suspension - if you put something heavy in the car - for me last year that was 350Kg of walling bricks - then the auto levelling effectively raises the pressure in the rear suspension in order to get the rear end to the normal height - but that means when you brake there's more pressure in the rear brakes which automatically compensates for the additional load.

Very clever

saintjamesy89 · Post by **saintjamesy89** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 11:53 pm

electrokid wrote:
is there not a brake bias valve on bx's that balances out front/rear braking ?
When you put your foot on the brake pedal, the doseur sends and regulates main hydraulic pressure to the front brakes and also sends pressure from the rear suspension through to the rear brakes.

So the rear brakes are driven at the pressure in the rear suspension - if you put something heavy in the car - for me last year that was 350Kg of walling bricks - then the auto levelling effectively raises the pressure in the rear suspension in order to get the rear end to the normal height - but that means when you brake there's more pressure in the rear brakes which automatically compensates for the additional load.

Very clever

So, taking the interior volume onto account, it would be difficult to overload a BX (with sensible load stuff, not boulders etc)?

I'm sure that the suspension components would be limiting as would the floor, but in principal at least.

Post by **Defender110** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 12:35 am

Roverman wrote: Ok Kevan thanks for that, think I may get someone to do it for me, I have a tendency to snap most bleed nipples off!

If you can make time on a Sunday or late Saturday afternoon we can do it in my workshop (15 minutes from my TGD parts car)

Post by **Tim Leech** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:33 am

Thanks mate, I may well take you up on that offer.

Cheers

electrokid · Post by **electrokid** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:13 am

So, taking the interior volume onto account, it would be difficult to overload a BX (with sensible load stuff, not boulders etc)?

I'm sure that the suspension components would be limiting as would the floor, but in principal at least.

Fairly difficult yes. From memory total max is 1500Kg - estate is something like 1050Kg and driver say 50Kg so there's 400Kg to play with which is a fair amount. I did the math roughly when picking up the walling bricks and figured it could be a bit over or a bit under so not an issue. They only formed 3 layers across the rear floor with the seats folded down though so someone with more 'enthusiasm' and even less math ability than me could easily have overdone it.

Overloading will risk bending something - and in the estate which has larger bore suspension rams, but same OD and therefore effectively a thinner tube you'd risk bursting the supension leg.

The beauty of the system though is that the rear brake force automatically adjusts to the load you're carrying.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 12:22 am

I've carried a known 380kg of steel in the back of the BX with no real effect on the handling. I don't know how much the firewood below weighs...

...but that did! Although it still levelled fine, the rear tyres felt distinctly 'squirmy' round corners, so I took it very steadily.

Mothman · Post by **Mothman** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 9:10 am

Great pics of your BX being used as a true versatile work motor Mat.

However, this is why i have a pickup, got the entire tree on the back.

Andy[img][img]http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd12 ... re1424.jpg[/img][/img]