Wanted for Diesel

[MULLEY]

New preferred but 2nd hand ok if no one wants to part with their new bits:

1) Rubber Hydraulic pipe that goes from lhm reservoir to hydraulic pump - to fit diesel model. If 2nd hand, please ensure that the pump end isn't split or is cracked.

2) Rear brake Bleed Nipples - ideally 6 or as many as you have.

Golden Beer tokens available

Thanks

[saintjamesy89]

I managed to get caliper bleed nipples from my local motor factor, they aren't identical but should fit fine. I did end up having to take on in to see which matched though.

[Mothman]

Hi bud,

i have the rubber pipe [in fact i have 3] that goes from the reservoir to the hydraulic pump. 2nd hand ime afraid but they are all in pretty good nick with no splits at either end if you are interested.

andy

[MULLEY]

Andy, i've pm'd you

[Vanny]

I got 4 bleed nipples from the dealer last Tuesday to the tune of £12!!! 1210 06 is the part number from memory.

[MULLEY]

Damn site cheaper than my local stealer, that would have worked out at £15, which tbh seems a rip off price for some tiny pieces of metal that cost pence to manufacture. Does anyone know of a suitable cheaper alternative?

[Vanny]

they are a standard size thread (M8 x1.25 i think) and the same as normal hydraulic unions, so i suspect you should be able to buy them 'off the shelf' at a decent factors.

What i would say is the Cit ones are not just 'any old metal' they have been surface treated in some way, presumably to delay the inevitable super corrosion. Someone suggested to me wrapping a little bit of PTFE around the threads which might have some merit (blocking the gaps in between the threads).

[MULLEY]

I was going to use coppaslip, or do you think that might contaminate the lhm?

Cheers for the info on the thread size, i'll have a hunt around for some.

[Vanny]

given that the LHM in the brake lines doesn't flow, i suspect if it is contaminated it will do little or no harm.

[mat_fenwick]

I've been thinking about coppaslip recently, and whether it is the best thing on new, zinc plated steel components. Reason being that I've used it to protect new fittings when I put them on, and they've actually gone rusty faster than I suspect they would have done otherwise. I've also removed fittings that have been on the car over 15 years which haven't gone rusty (i.e. the bonnet catch screws), reassembled with coppaslip and they've gone rusty within 6 months. Coincidence?

I've never come across a situation where things have been more difficult to remove than I'd expect had they not been coated, so I think the copper particles still remain after the base grease has been washed away, giving a lower friction layer to prevent seizing. But I think what is happening is that the presence of copper is causing galvanic corrosion of the zinc plating, which then exposes the steel underneath.

[MULLEY]

What about using a normal type of grease instead? Interesting point about copper particles which i'd never considered.

[mat_fenwick]

I'm not sure TBH - the thing with coppaslip is that even when the base grease has dried out, there should still be that layer of copper which (should) prevent seizing. On balance (especially as it's just a theory of mine I've noticed recently) I'll still continue to use it on threads likely to seize, but use a conventional grease on those less exposed threads, which also happen to be the visible ones.

With nipples I reckon the important thing is keeping the hex from rusting, so I tend to give that a squirt of oil or a wipe with grease every time I'm near it. Assuming some monkey hasn't overtightened them in the past, and you use a proper 6 sided spanner/socket, all should be well.

[Defender110]

Assuming some monkey hasn't overtightened them in the past, and you use a proper 6 sided spanner/socket, all should be well.

/\ IMHO this is the biggest problem with brake bleed nipples; factory tightened oneswill come undone without fuss 20 years after fitment but try undoing one 2 years after they have been overtightened. They only need a nip after mating.