I have an intermittant fault on the ABS - the light stays on more often than not. However, the last time this happened, a couple of months ago, I checked the (electrical) connections on the ABS block next to the n/s wing - after a bit of wiggling and cleaning the light stayed out and all was well. Until yesterday when the light stayed on. Now, again I did a bit of cleaning and fiddling and it stayed out for half a mile or so, but another pothole jolt caused the ABS light to come back on again.
I am considering removing the air box to get better acces to the wires, but I am having some difficulty in identifying the wires. I have two big connectors with a feed from the battery and another brown connector block burried deeper down. There is also a wire with an inline fuse. Main connection to the ABS block comes from the former, (and getting that connector off the ABS block looks like it could be tricky as I don't want to damage anything). There is another connection to the ABS block next to that at an angle which likewise I don't want to disturb unless I know it's safe to do so. The earth seems fine but I'll clean that up too.
Am I wasting my time and is it just a coincidence and actually the fault lies at the wheel(s) I wonder. At least if I can clean it all up it might work. But again, I want to know what it is I'm taking apart and reconnecting!
As you can tell I know very little about car mechanicals/electricals but I reckong if I make sure everything's connected as it should be, clean with good contacts that's a start!
ABS wiring
- Philip Chidlow
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ABS wiring
• 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo Hurricane
• 2006 Xsara Picasso 1.6 16v
• 2006 Xsara Picasso 1.6 16v
I can't see you will do any harm taking the connectors off the control block, carefully cleaning them and replacing them - after all they are meant to come apart and from what I remember can't be got on in the wrong place as the connectors are different sizes.
Intermittent sensor faults are very difficult to trace - I did mine with an audio amplifier - connected the sensor to a jack plug and drove round listening to the hum, till I heard crackles.
You could do the same with a cassette recorder - just have to remember which sensor you were listening to when you played the tape back.
jeremy
Intermittent sensor faults are very difficult to trace - I did mine with an audio amplifier - connected the sensor to a jack plug and drove round listening to the hum, till I heard crackles.
You could do the same with a cassette recorder - just have to remember which sensor you were listening to when you played the tape back.
jeremy
- ken newbold
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Chances are it's one of your wheel sensors, uusually a front one, or at least the wire lead.
Try following the wires back from the wheels and you'll find a plug located just within the engine compartment, I 've known these be the source of the problem.
Once unpluged, if you have a multimeter you can test the resistance of the sensor from here. You should get a resistance of between 800 - 1400 ohms.
If either sensors is outside these readings, it's no good. You may be lucky and it's just a dry connection.
Try following the wires back from the wheels and you'll find a plug located just within the engine compartment, I 've known these be the source of the problem.
Once unpluged, if you have a multimeter you can test the resistance of the sensor from here. You should get a resistance of between 800 - 1400 ohms.
If either sensors is outside these readings, it's no good. You may be lucky and it's just a dry connection.
- Jaba
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It is almost always a wheel sensor fault that causes this. Check the front sensors for security then look for an o/c in any of the four coax leads.
Just connect a meter and look for around 1Kohms and then any resistance changes when you wiggle the cable and connectors.
If that fails then check out this very thorough diagnostic procedure ...
http://www.woollard.com.btinternet.co.u ... ad.htm#ABS
Good hunting.
Just connect a meter and look for around 1Kohms and then any resistance changes when you wiggle the cable and connectors.
If that fails then check out this very thorough diagnostic procedure ...
http://www.woollard.com.btinternet.co.u ... ad.htm#ABS
Good hunting.
The Joy of BX with just one Citroën BX to my name now. Will I sing Bye Bye to my GTI or will it be Till death us do part.
- Philip Chidlow
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Common one I've found is the bracket that holds the sensor lead as well as the brake line and is held onto the strut with 4 cheeseheaded allen screws. It also has a wire loop on it to hold the handbrake cable off the tyre.
It snaps through stress and allows the coax to vibrate merrily until it creates an internal break.
I had one that drove me insane and I had it sorted (I thought) several times after I had been working on wires and plugs under the bonnet. I eventually discovered an internal break that would operate sometimes if the cable was in the right place, but all it took was for me to turn on one lock and on would come the light.
New sensor and new holding bracket solved it.
I've also noticed that for some reason, the front passengers side sensor seems to be the one most likely to fail.
I also keep my serratted wheels clear of rust and grit as these will also make some strange things happen.
Alan S
It snaps through stress and allows the coax to vibrate merrily until it creates an internal break.
I had one that drove me insane and I had it sorted (I thought) several times after I had been working on wires and plugs under the bonnet. I eventually discovered an internal break that would operate sometimes if the cable was in the right place, but all it took was for me to turn on one lock and on would come the light.
New sensor and new holding bracket solved it.
I've also noticed that for some reason, the front passengers side sensor seems to be the one most likely to fail.
I also keep my serratted wheels clear of rust and grit as these will also make some strange things happen.
Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.
- Philip Chidlow
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