TX Models

Anything about BXs
Dollywobbler
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Re: TX Models

Post by Dollywobbler »

Rusty back box isn't an issue really (apart from for the MOT). Reducing back pressure really helps on a diesel. Grey smoke sounds a bit worrying though. Not using coolant is it?
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Re: TX Models

Post by Mothman »

Feed it something in the fuel, Millers will help the injectors, a lot of people swear by the stuff, always sells out at my local motor factors. I always dose mine every fillup..
And then dont forget to thrash the bugger for a bit to get rid of the cobwebs. Great fun but as Ian says, check out your cooling system, if there are bubbles and throthing in the expansion tank or pressure when cold its going to get very expensive to fix.
Other than that, have fun.

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saintjamesy89
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Re: TX Models

Post by saintjamesy89 »

Well, it appeared grey on a dim, rainy day with slightly fogged up mirrors etc. I noticed that the expansion tank was low - but the car was still hot and I forgot to check before I went home. So will check tomorrow, also got a definite speedo whine/groan and what feels like slightly sticking rear brakes, when you pull away, the back end dips as if you had the handbrake on and pulling away feels like hard work.
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smiffy1071
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Re: TX Models

Post by smiffy1071 »

So, a new air filter will certainly help your smoke problem, and removing the rear calipers, and cleaning the pistons should sort out the rear brakes.
This will be a good excuse to check the bleed nipples haven't seized solid! When the halves of the caliper are separated, a light rub around the piston with emery cloth, then push the piston all the way into the caliper half.
Then either re-use the same pads (be sure to put the pad on the same side as it came from, so it will match the disc face), or fit new, then bleed in the normal way.
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Re: TX Models

Post by saintjamesy89 »

You must have read my mind smiffy :) I also need to have the speedo panel off to investigate the wailing/groaning speedo cable and non working tacho, there's a few bulbs out here too.

Chuffed so far, done more than 200 miles on just less than the first quarter of a tank - not sure how accurate the fuel gauge is mind!
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mat_fenwick
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Re: TX Models

Post by mat_fenwick »

Assuming it has the extra tank you'll do 150 miles or so before the gauge starts moving, as this simply feeds into the main tank where the sender unit is. Hopefully the rear brakes will just have sticky pads rather than piston, but you'll see when you have a look.
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Re: TX Models

Post by Dollywobbler »

Yup. Is very odd having a car where the fuel gauge doesn't move for 150+ miles!
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Re: TX Models

Post by citsncycles »

Are you sure your slow acceleration isn't down to the nature of the beast. I've not had a TD BX, but the Montego TDi I had from the same era would really bog down when pulling away. You either had to rev the engine then almost spin the wheels to keep the boost up, or live with it being really sluggish in 1st up to 10 or 15mph before the turbo came in and (if you weren't careful) launched you into the car in front as you had your foot hard down trying to pull away.

I'm planning to change the back box on Timex over the new year - I have an estate box to go on that I need to weld a hanger to, and the one coming off is a hatch box that had been welded up along the side seam but is still useable. You're welcome to it if we can work out a way of getting it to you that doesn't cost the same as a new box.
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Re: TX Models

Post by saintjamesy89 »

It's by no means slow now, just slower than when I picked it up. When I picked it up it was phenomenally quick when on boost :D now it's just quite quick, and you can almost feel the back end being dragged. Done 290 miles, and the gauge reads just under 3/4 full :)

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Re: TX Models

Post by MULLEY »

I'd recommend you do the following to ensure that it's got the performance that its supposed to:

1) Oil & filter change
2) Air filter change
3) Fuel filter change
4) Try some injector cleaner
5) Replace backbox, a knackered one will reduce performance

If all of those don't change anything or reduce the smoke output, then let us know, except for checking the brakes.

If the brakes are dragging, its very easy to tell which one's it is, go for a drive, the car will feel less sprightly depending upon how seized the calipers are. Park up after a few miles & see how hot the wheels are, the hot one's will indicate seized calipers. Try not using the handbrake, the cables might be knackered & therefore not releasing properly.

Give those a try before worrying about anything else. I wouldn't be surprised if it is a sticky caliper, it can radically reduce acceleration. I've had smoke pouring off a sticking caliper before, it was quite exciting, the smell was rather nasty.
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Re: TX Models

Post by saintjamesy89 »

Nice list, thanks Mat. I've drawn up something similar for myself, but forgot the fuel filter! Keep forgetting to feel up the wheels too to see if they're hot. It now only smokes a little bit when you're booting it, it was stood for a few weeks apparently.
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smiffy1071
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Re: TX Models

Post by smiffy1071 »

The rev counter not working is I think more likely the pickup down the back of the engine. It could have moved, been unplugged, or just failed.
It's very unlikely to be the head itself, but they are not hard to find should this be the case
The rear calipers especially don't do very much if there is no weight in the boot, so they can get a bit sticky.
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