Cleaning carb jets

[maxgreenwood]

What is the best way ? Do I need to take off carb or do they unscrew or something?

Then I use carb cleaner and blow through with air?




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[maxgreenwood]

(Solex)


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[demag]

Yes air Max. Don't use wire or pins. I dare say you could blast them through with brake cleaner or contact cleaner from an aerosol. What are the symptoms Max, what's happening? Or probably more accurate, what's not happening?

[citronut]

i usually remove the car lid ( bit more fiddly on a Solex to a Webber ) as you need to remove the black plastic bit out the straddles the throttle cam (the off white canistery this with the big spring coiled ( throttle return ) around it,

then you will see the end of a spindle which you need to grip hold of and pill on it, this wll release an arm of the trhottle linkage that stays with the main carb body when you lift the lid away,

then unscrew all the jets and emulsion tubes and give them a good blow out with air

regards malcolm

[maxgreenwood]

Thanks Malcolm I'll plan to do that. Dave, it's just running really rough (the 19trs - your old 16 is running great), I think at least one cylinder was out. Anyway have removed plugs, they were black but not oily, think I need new dist cap, silver ends of the 4 triangular things(!) worn. Just thought jets would be good but maybe I should do in steps after this little lot.


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[demag]

If it's only been run briefly now and again the plugs will be sooty because it's on choke all the time. Will it run until the fan cuts in? You know the engine's upto temperature then. Once it's warm if you take the plastic top from the air filter off the carb the choke flap should be vertical so as to get maximum air into the engine. If it's at an angle and obstructing the venturi there is a problem with the choke mechanism which will need sorting.
Also when starting from cold it should run at about 1500rpm for a few minutes until it starts warming up then slow down to about 750rpm.

Here's an interesting post. http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1478" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


These are all the jets looking down from above with the top of the carb removed. If you can get a can of carb cleaner or brake/electrical cleaner blast some down each one to make sure they are clean. The biggest problem is removing the top of the carb which is a pita.

[maxgreenwood]

Thanks Dave, that is really useful! And that post link should enable me to get to the bottom of it. The 16TXS is running really well now, had to adjust the choke as it wasn't opening the few mm it needs just after start up. Will check on that for a vacuum leak as well though. Seems to be running economically. It's a solid car, although the boot is very rusty and crusty with holes, shouldn't be too bad a weld at some point in the future. Be great if I can get the 19trs running right. Need to change coolant too, the swampiest rustyist I've ever seen!


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[citronut]

usually rough running is down to either the choke not set up or opening fully/at all,

the choke should open quite fast on starting the engine, feel the two hose's at the carb/choke stat, if they do not heat up quickly either the coolant level is low, or the alloy choke stat housing has closed down with corrosion/fur,

or the crank breather is blocked/obstructed ( collapsed filler neck or one of the two ( yes two ) gauze filters clogged with carbon,

this cause's moisture droplets to build up on the underside of the rubber carb hood, and drop straight down into the two emulsion tube's/jets ( these are the two in the center of the picy above, between the two veturi's ),

remove them and tap them onto a clean surface and you will almost certainly see beads of water,

regards malcolm

[electrokid]

Need to change coolant too, the swampiest rustyist I've ever seen!

If the coolant is a rusty brown (and the hoses are likely to be crunchy when squeezed as well) then a previous owner has been using tapwater instead of de-ionised water. That's one of the quickest ways to kill a car engine.

It's very unlikely that you'll get consistent auto-choke operation until you've fixed the coolant problem by chemical flushing and fill with de-ionised water + antifreeze (blue).

If you're servicing the carb then it's a good idea to get a carb service kit and if you're not sure what might be going wrong with the carb then just fit everything that the service kit contains - the selection of parts in the service kit is there for a reason - they are the parts most likely to cause problems.