Hydraulic pump belt noise
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Hydraulic pump belt noise
Hi, I'm new to the forum.
Having just bought myself a BX TZD (1991) I was fully aware that 'things' would need doing.
The one thing that's annoying me the most is that I can hear a regular squeaking type of noise, which I believe is coming from the hydraulic pump belt, as it seems to do it more when the pump ticks.
How often do these belts need to be replaced and is it a easy job?
The car has done 81k.
Thanks
Colin
Having just bought myself a BX TZD (1991) I was fully aware that 'things' would need doing.
The one thing that's annoying me the most is that I can hear a regular squeaking type of noise, which I believe is coming from the hydraulic pump belt, as it seems to do it more when the pump ticks.
How often do these belts need to be replaced and is it a easy job?
The car has done 81k.
Thanks
Colin
1991 Citroen BX TZD Turbo
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Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
A very easy job, and cheap maybe it just needs tightening.
They think it's all over, it is now!
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Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
If your belt looks a little glazed change it. They need to be very tight.
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Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
Ok thanks for your replies.
I guess my main worry is that if it snaps and I'm left with no brakes, steering or suspension!
I guess my main worry is that if it snaps and I'm left with no brakes, steering or suspension!
1991 Citroen BX TZD Turbo
Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
Trust me if it breaks the brakes will be the last thing to go because it will become a pig long before then to drive.
1991 BX19 TZS 04/01/91 (Deceased)
1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
1992 BX19 TXD (Ex UK - K 744 SDF) 15/06/92
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Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
For what they cost always carry a spare.
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Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
Best to change the belt - they are cheap insurance. If there is any cracking whatsoever, it is past best. They need to be pretty tight. Also with a new one expect it to 'stretch' slightly so if you hear a squealing - it's slipping - so re tension it then it will stay good for a long time. Probably do the alternator belt too?
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Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
And use a decent brand belt, dunnoname had plastic reinforcement inside the rubber, it just kept stretching and squealing after every 200 miles or so after retightening. Contitech & others with fabric reinforcement will do the job!
BX 4x4 estate, several BX Van's and some more normal estates in Finland.
Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
Seconded, the decent brands are usually best Gates, Dayco etc.
As for ease of doing. fairly straightforward. First remove o/s front wheel with car jacked up and stopped from rolling. Remove the wheel arch protective trim(s) - just grommets you work gently out. Loosen alternator and hydraulic belt and remove both. You should just be able to get a new belt over the crank pulley and the two others - one fixed the other adjustable - 2 X 13mm across flats bolts. You might need to gently guide the edge of the belt over with the flat face of a screwdriver. Best if done on the arc adjustable pulley which allows you to tension the belt later. If it really will not go, you need to undo the crank end bolt and remove the pulley, then put belt on the three together and reassemble. This is dead easy. The crank end bolt can be pretty tight, but may be 'cracked' with the starter motor working against a carefully wedged on ground socket. If your not happy doing this, get a mate or garage with an impact driver to loosen it.
The crank pulley might be pretty tight and the pulley may need to be very gently persuaded off the shaft. If this is the case do not damage any timing belt covers, but thin wedges of hard timber, aluminium or even steel can be very gently tapped in against the crankcase to get it off. Rotate frequently and do not stress any surface of the crankcase, indeed protect it with a flat piece of steel. I've only done petrols but I can't see (other than diesel crankase is cast iron) why it should be any different.
As for ease of doing. fairly straightforward. First remove o/s front wheel with car jacked up and stopped from rolling. Remove the wheel arch protective trim(s) - just grommets you work gently out. Loosen alternator and hydraulic belt and remove both. You should just be able to get a new belt over the crank pulley and the two others - one fixed the other adjustable - 2 X 13mm across flats bolts. You might need to gently guide the edge of the belt over with the flat face of a screwdriver. Best if done on the arc adjustable pulley which allows you to tension the belt later. If it really will not go, you need to undo the crank end bolt and remove the pulley, then put belt on the three together and reassemble. This is dead easy. The crank end bolt can be pretty tight, but may be 'cracked' with the starter motor working against a carefully wedged on ground socket. If your not happy doing this, get a mate or garage with an impact driver to loosen it.
The crank pulley might be pretty tight and the pulley may need to be very gently persuaded off the shaft. If this is the case do not damage any timing belt covers, but thin wedges of hard timber, aluminium or even steel can be very gently tapped in against the crankcase to get it off. Rotate frequently and do not stress any surface of the crankcase, indeed protect it with a flat piece of steel. I've only done petrols but I can't see (other than diesel crankase is cast iron) why it should be any different.
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Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
Good advice there /\, but not applicable to diesels...
They have the pump driven from the camshaft, and the pump sits on top of the gearbox. You can see what you're doing a lot more easily if you take the battery out, but it's certainly not necessary. I just pop the breather flame trap off the intercooler (assuming a TZD Turbo in the OP's case), slacken off the 11(?)mm nut on the slotted tensioner bracket, lever the pump to tension the belt and then tighten to lock in position.
They have the pump driven from the camshaft, and the pump sits on top of the gearbox. You can see what you're doing a lot more easily if you take the battery out, but it's certainly not necessary. I just pop the breather flame trap off the intercooler (assuming a TZD Turbo in the OP's case), slacken off the 11(?)mm nut on the slotted tensioner bracket, lever the pump to tension the belt and then tighten to lock in position.
Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
Thanks Mat, but none of my manuals cover the diesel engines..... and I've hardly touched them (diesels) other than driving....
Glad you were able to point the OP in the right direction.
Glad you were able to point the OP in the right direction.
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Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
Thanks for your help guys, some really useful information there!
1991 Citroen BX TZD Turbo
Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
My pump's pulley broke off recently, can't be repaired. So make sure you're not over-tightening old belts!
A new belt is just a few dollars every 5 or 10 years.
Please excuse the video orientation.
A new belt is just a few dollars every 5 or 10 years.
Please excuse the video orientation.
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Re: Hydraulic pump belt noise
Yes, I've never understood it when I read people saying the belts "have to be really tight". A good, correctly adjusted belt does not. I never have mine "really tight" and they don't slip. Any belt that is too tight can cause untold damage to bearings and shafts.frog wrote:My pump's pulley broke off recently, can't be repaired. So make sure you're not over-tightening old belts!
A new belt is just a few dollars every 5 or 10 years.
Please excuse the video orientation.
Kevan
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1997 Mercedes C230 W202
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1993 Land Rover Discovery 200tdi Series 1 3 door - in need of TLC
2020 Fiat Panda 4x4 Cross Twin Air.