Oil Leak On 1.9 Diesel From Main Bearing Cap?

[David]

Hi all,

As the title states, I've got an oil leak from somewhere on my 1.9 diesel engine. At first glance, it looks to be coming from the back of the sump, near the gearbox, however the engine is wet above the sump, and it's wet on the inside of the flywheel cover plate, which leads me to believe that it's not the sump, but the main bearing cap above it.

Just to add, that the sump was removed, cleaned and resealed a few months ago, but it's still leaking, which reinforces the belief again that it's the cap. The crankshaft oil seal has also been replaced when I last had the engine out.

So, How do I seal it up?

My initial thought is to remove the cap (and I assume that I might have to remove the gearbox and flywheel so I can see what I'm doing, as well as the sump), and try some instant gasket around it. I know that it's got two little rubbers down the sides of it and the crankshaft oil seal is above it.

Does it sound like it'll work? or am I overlooking something?

Any advice would be appreciated on this matter.

[Jaba]

You need to get some of the hockey stick type seals and use gasket silicone too when you fit them. Part # is 012707. You will need a new crank seal too.
And yes unfortunately its gearbox and flywheel off too.

[David]

Thanks for getting back to me.

I had a feeling that the gearbox would have to come out, so it's not really bad news; it's quite easy to get out anyway, I'll just have to sit the transfer box on something so I can remove the sump and gearbox together.

Do you have any idea where I can get the seals from? - My usual seal supplier is closed at the minute.

(On a side note, maybe the admins should add a section on the website where to get different parts from).

Also, do you know how to fit the seals down the sides of the cap? These are something that I haven't messed with before.

Regards.

[Kaapelimies]

Haynes manual gives good hints with pictures on installing the "boots".

[Jaba]

Try an online search for a supplier.
You just remove the cap and it will be obvious how to do it. You will need to trim off the length when in situ. I use RTV silicone too just to make sure its oiltight too.

[David]

Jaba, You was right.

I've completely pulled the car apart, and with everything out of the way it looks like it's the oil seal that's leaking and not the cap. I've also noticed that I've got leaks from the octopus, so I've removed the engine so I can get at it to fix it. I'm going to replace it all as it's impossible to get to with the engine in.

I've ordered an oil seal off ebay and I'm currently waiting for it to arrive. I'm also starting to question the quality of the seals from my usual supplier, as this isn't the first one that's failed prematurely. It might also explain why I couldn't get rid of the oil leaks from the rear diff and other transfer box.

Seems as I've got it apart this far, would you recommend removing and sealing the cap anyway just for peace of mind?

Thanks again for the advice.

[Jaba]

I most certainly would. I have had a failed newish oil seal too recently. I replaced it with one from a bearing seal supplier and got one with the correct depth size and their best quality too. Naturally I replaced the cap seals too just in case as the oil had wrecked the clutch too.

[Kaapelimies]

The round seals will take a lot of care to be installed the right way. You have to look that the inner lip of the seal poits out, and that the seal does NOT fit the possible groove that may be worn in the axle. It's good also to sand the axle with a 600-800 grit paper or so to smooth it out if there's any suspect wear. And the seal has to be pushed in STRAIGHT. If it is uneven, it WILL leak as the hole is not round anymore. Apply oil to all surfaces before fitting, or at least the inner axle if using glue on the outside.

[David]

Thanks again for the advice.

I'm still waiting for the parts so I can put the car back together, so I haven't managed to any more with it yet.

I think I've worked out why the rear diff seals kept leaking though, I think the supplier sold me the wrong size! (He measured the original ones up with a micrometer, and that's what he supplied). The size that was in the diff is a 45 x 62 x 10, and after measuring the shaft I think it needs a 44 x 62 x 10. Maybe he did the same with the others that have leaked?

Has anyone got any extra advice on how to fit these oil seals properly? - I think I've been doing it right, but any extra advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Jaba]

Crank seal size is 110x90x10. GSF always supplied one less deep at only 8mm so I got one as mentioned before from a different source with correct dimensions.
Fitting: I always lube with oil or usually silicone and then tap it in very gently and evenly with a thick piece of wood.

[David]

Thanks again for the advice.

I removed the cap, cleaned it all with brake cleaner and put a lot of sealant down the sides and underneath the cap, and underneath the seals too. I then bolted it all together and cleaned off the excess, so hopefully if it was leaking, it won't be now.

The seal arrived today and has now been fitted too. I went down the route of oiling it to fit it as I didn't want it to get stuck, twist and get damaged. I ended up knocking it in using the old seal as it wasn't far enough in after just using wood.

It looks to be in alright now; it fitted nicely anyway, but I need to replace the octopus pipes and steering coupling before I can put the engine back in and test it.

Oh, another quick question; there's a bolt on cap, right behind the injector pump at the top on the front of the engine head. It's held on with two Allen keys. What does it seal in? Water or oil?