My BX14 RE- Sold.

[Fumbler]

Radio.PNG

Found one that suited my needs!

Full write-up here.

[white exec]

And it came with the right sort of paperwork, underneath! Nice job.

[Fumbler]

[panky]

Nice vid.
A good way of turning the engine over on a front wheel drive is to lift one of the front wheels off the floor, engage third or forth gear (take the handbrake off on a BX) and turn the wheel that's off the ground. Because one wheel is fixed the engine will turn over as you turn the free wheel and you have good control over positioning the rockers to set the valve clearances.

[white exec]

Wasn't there a square casting along the rocker shaft, which allows a spanner to turn the shaft accurately?

[Fumbler]

Nice vid.
A good way of turning the engine over on a front wheel drive is to lift one of the front wheels off the floor, engage third or forth gear (take the handbrake off on a BX) and turn the wheel that's off the ground. Because one wheel is fixed the engine will turn over as you turn the free wheel and you have good control over positioning the rockers to set the valve clearances.

Indeed, the HBOL has that as a method, however the car's jack and spare wheel is at the unit while I wait until I can collect a spare wheel carrier from a breaker.

Wasn't there a square casting along the rocker shaft, which allows a spanner to turn the shaft accurately?

Ah, that's what the flat edges were for! Perhaps I could have used those but I was fighting against the compression of the engine as well, as I didn't have a plug socket to hand. I didn't fancy putting lots of strain on the cambelt so I ended up bumping the starter which somehow worked rather well.

[Fumbler]

Copied from a question I put on AS:
...As for the starting issue, I'm a bit stumped. I deliberately let the fuel bowl run out of fuel, stalling the engine. I hooked the fuel pump back up, spun the engine over and, within a few cranks, it was purring away. I did the same thing and let the engine cool down for an hour and it started up as if it never had an issue. Two things are at play here: Residual fuel and residual heat in the block. My brother and I smashed our brains together and have come up with a couple of possible factors causing it to not start. The first is that I'm getting a lot of false results from not letting the engine cool down enough. The second is that the only issue with the engine running is getting it to start from cold. Any, and I mean any, fuel/air mixture I set won't get it to fire unless I hold the accelerator open and crank the engine for a good 30 seconds - 1 minute. That's with the choke on, with the mixture screw wound fully in, out, in the missle and anything in between. Nothing affects that behaviour. I am almost certain that the jet sizes have changed meaning the AFR and fuel delivery rates have changed. This, coupled with the fact fuel backfires through the carb even when it's set to very rich running, suggests ignition timing is at fault here. It's literally the only thing I haven't checked or interfered with on the ignition and fuel system. If the timing isn't set correctly the engine will have a hard time starting and when running it could also knock. I'm not experiencing knock so the timing isn't over-advanced; I'm wondering if it isn't advanced enough for the new carburettor that's been installed.

Indeed, I've got starting issues again... except they're the same starting issues I've always had with this new carburettor. Is my thinking correct?

[rutter123]

Does a 14 have a pre-heater? I remember my 16 had one and when it packed up it was a pig to start.

[Fumbler]

Does a 14 have a pre-heater? I remember my 16 had one and when it packed up it was a pig to start.

No block heater here. It started fine with the old carburettor installed but not this one.
EDIT: the old one wouldn't backfire either no matter the setting. I do wonder if the timing is off but I lack a timing light. That being said, I can do it by ear but not very well.

[Kaapelimies]

Didi you check that the new carebburator has the same nozzles as the old one? If it's not original, it might have whatever.

[Fumbler]

Didi you check that the new carebburator has the same nozzles as the old one? If it's not original, it might have whatever.

It probably does have different jets which I could probably swap over from the old one. The different AFM this one is giving the engine is probably requiring a timing change. If timing is at fault, I'd rather adjust that than take the carb off the engine (it's design requires it to swap the main jet) and tear it apart again.

[white exec]

Swap all the jets from old to new.
The jets will likely he marked with identity numbers.
Make notes as you go, in case there is a problem.

[Fumbler]

I don't fancy doing that but I may tomorrow. Would it be a better choice to swap the jets over as opposed to changing the ignition timing?

[white exec]

If the engine ran better on the original jets, then it's a simple (and easily reversible) change to do, involving not too much 'tuning'.
Important that you only change one thing at a time, or you'll never know what made the improvement or otherwise.

[Fumbler]

Trouble is, I have to remove the carb to access the main jet and I don't particularly fancy dancing that dance again if it mightn't fix the problem. Then again, I might fundamentally ruin the timing as well. I hate being torn on things like this.