My BX14 RE- Sold.

[xantia_v6]

It should never be necessary to adjust the timing to compensate for mixture, unless the engine is significantly modified (e.g. camshaft profile or compression ratio).

Ignition timing is very unlikely to cause poor cold starting if the engine runs when warm. Lack of spark while cranking is another story.

[jamescarruthers]

Does it not seem that you adjusted the valve clearances as we saw in your video and then it has became difficult to start again?

Maybe recheck your work and turn the engine by hand to set or check the clearances, rather than using the starter? I found it hard to see how you were getting the valves in the right place before adjusting things in the video.

I had a J5R engine in my Renault Master and that was awful to start until the valve clearances were redone. It started instantly and purred magnificently after that.



After my experience with the lovely old Master, I am now a huge advocate of having valve clearances dead on.

[white exec]

You can safely use the square turning point on the camshaft, to accurately position the cams, and see exactly what you're doing.
If you want to get rid of the compression, just undo the spark plugs.

[Fumbler]

Does it not seem that you adjusted the valve clearances as we saw in your video and then it has became difficult to start again?

Maybe recheck your work and turn the engine by hand to set or check the clearances, rather than using the starter? I found it hard to see how you were getting the valves in the right place before adjusting things in the video.

I had a J5R engine in my Renault Master and that was awful to start until the valve clearances were redone. It started instantly and purred magnificently after that.



After my experience with the lovely old Master, I am now a huge advocate of having valve clearances dead on.

It's just as difficult to start the engine before as it was after. I've been suffering this problem all of the time I was at college last month. The unreliable starting is preventing me from using it to commute to work, go shopping etc. Looks like I'm whipping the carburettor off again!

What I'll do next time with the valve clearances is to remove the sparkplugs and turn the camshaft. Unfortunately all the spark plug stuff is 10 miles away in an industrial unit at the moment. I feel the whole experience was a bit botched but that's learning, innit.

[jamescarruthers]

Yes, and learning is fun with these, but it would be nice to go to the shops in it without wondering if it will start! Fingers crossed you can get this sorted. It is a simple old thing and you will get there with it and it will be incredibly satisfying. I think everyone is rooting for you on this one!

I also changed the carb on the Master for a generic thing from the Carburettor Hospital but after proper valve clearances I could put the original back on abs it ran fine.

I tuned it with one of those Gunson glass spark plugs and then had a garage check the CO content with their calibrated probe. All was good.

Also, I added in a Malpassi fuel filter and regulator to finish the job off and it never idled so well as with this fantastic thing installed in place of the original fuel filter. This was because the mechanical fuel pump had a slightly worn out push actuator (not that I really noticed before, but the Carburettor Hospital recommended it abs they were right about the smooth idle!)

I’m not saying my course action will cure it, but worth bearing some of it in mind.

[Fumbler]

Yes, and learning is fun with these, but it would be nice to go to the shops in it without wondering if it will start! Fingers crossed you can get this sorted. It is a simple old thing and you will get there with it and it will be incredibly satisfying. I think everyone is rooting for you on this one!

I also changed the carb on the Master for a generic thing from the Carburettor Hospital but after proper valve clearances I could put the original back on abs it ran fine.

I tuned it with one of those Gunson glass spark plugs and then had a garage check the CO content with their calibrated probe. All was good.

Also, I added in a Malpassi fuel filter and regulator to finish the job off and it never idled so well as with this fantastic thing installed in place of the original fuel filter. This was because the mechanical fuel pump had a slightly worn out push actuator (not that I really noticed before, but the Carburettor Hospital recommended it abs they were right about the smooth idle!)

I’m not saying my course action will cure it, but worth bearing some of it in mind.

Indeed, I investigated the fuel pump and I'm satisfied with the rate of flow it produces so the issues still lie with the fuel-make-it-happener. I'll film my adventure as well so I can document any success/failure.

I found some nuts to tighten down the studs for the rocker cover. I've also temporarily swapped over the original capped nuts with blind holes for regular ones so I can diagnose why the gasket isn't sealing correctly.

[Fumbler]

So the rocker cover leak was found. The 32-year-old plastic spacers which clamp the rocker cover baffle to the cylinder head finally let go and disintegrated when I bolted down the rocker cover after the gasket replacement. It's a good job they were plastic and not something cast out of metal, or I'd have condemned the engine.

EDIT: Calipers show they're 15.32mm tall so that's what I've got to make out of some high temperature plastic or something. Heck, hardwood would work but I have a feeling it'll suffer from the same issues. It's not like I can just remove the baffle plate in its entirety, either: it helps direct oil onto the camshaft and rocker assembly.

[panky]

I did notice when you were setting the valve clearances you were checking a rocker and saying it was open, because it was rocking, and adjusting another valve in your sequence, the valve you said was open was actually shut, the rocker has to be fully depressed for the valve to be open. If you use the rule of 9 then say if No1 is fully open (depressed) then adjust No8 - No2 fully open adjust No7 etc. Sorry if I've misheard you in the vid but I thought I better mention it.

[Fumbler]

I did notice when you were setting the valve clearances you were checking a rocker and saying it was open, because it was rocking, and adjusting another valve in your sequence, the valve you said was open was actually shut, the rocker has to be fully depressed for the valve to be open. If you use the rule of 9 then say if No1 is fully open (depressed) then adjust No8 - No2 fully open adjust No7 etc. Sorry if I've misheard you in the vid but I thought I better mention it.

May have misspoke. I was using the guide in the Haynes manual which uses the exhaust valve opening order (1-3-4-2) to check and adjust the closed valves.

[Fumbler]

I also let the sun warm up the engine for the most of the morning and the car started up with no problems. The block requires heat to start with theis carburettor fitted. What does this mean? Incorrect jets supplying not enough fuel for the engine? Timing? The PSA gods inflicting endless pain and suffering?

[Fumbler]

OK- small victory. I remade the baffle spacers out of some copper pipe. Let the engine run for 5 minutes and BOOM! No leaks thus far. When everything is complete and I make a run to get petrol, I'll investigate again. I'll need to top the engine up a bit with some oil- it doesn't matter what I throw in so long as it'sof the correct viscosity as I'll be changing the oil very shortly.

[panky]

I've had a similar problem on my Commer camper lately, it was very difficult to start especially when hot. I've been going through things today and found the vacuum line from the carb to the dizzy had split on the carb end so giving a weak mixture. Fitted a new one and boom starts perfectly. I'm not familiar with the carb set up an your car but worth checking for air leaks on vac lines, if there are any, and other joints. Start the engine and spray carb or brake cleaner around the joints, if the engine picks up speed then you've got a leak.

[Fumbler]

I've had a similar problem on my Commer camper lately, it was very difficult to start especially when hot. I've been going through things today and found the vacuum line from the carb to the dizzy had split on the carb end so giving a weak mixture. Fitted a new one and boom starts perfectly. I'm not familiar with the carb set up an your car but worth checking for air leaks on vac lines, if there are any, and other joints. Start the engine and spray carb or brake cleaner around the joints, if the engine picks up speed then you've got a leak.

I did that a couple days ago using the method you've described. No leaks found which was annoying as I was hoping for a quick fix. What's weird is that the engine starts better when the block is warm. Anyway, I'm off to film changing some jets over and get done what I was hoping to have started in the morning.

[rutter123]

Yes Panky the rule of 9 is great, been long time since I used it, prob on my mk1 suitcase engine 20yr ago, but the camshaft was soooo worn it really made no difference to the rattling, rip B267KPE ven red bx14re

[white exec]

I wince each time you guys say BOOM!