My BX14 RE- Sold.

[panky]

I'm confident........ish

[Fumbler]

I'm confident........ish

Of course if it continues to be a pig to start tomorrow I'm hightailing it to the unit to replace it with the Micra for the week as I've got to commute to work for Monday-Wednesday. During that time it can reflect on its ineptitude to work while I buzz about in a shoebox of Japanese reliability.

[Fumbler]

News flash: wasn't a pig to start.

I also attempted to change the starter motor today, only that the replacement was for something that wasn't a 1.4 TU engine. Same motor and everything apart from the end piece that bolts onto the engine, so that was a waste of a morning. Fortunately, Citroen C3 1.4 starter motors are very plentiful and very cheap. Once I do get it replaced, I'll have some fun combining the old starter motor with the new one and create some Frankenstein's Motor kind of thing.

[panky]

I hope that's it

[Fumbler]

Certainly seems like it. With my mind sort of put at ease, I'm going to move onto other stuff now.

[Fumbler]

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This is the rear wiper switch's plug. To activate the rear wiper, I have to also activate the washer pump which is incredibly annoying in the wet.

I'd like to add a discreet switch that piggybacks off this plug so that I can operate the rear wiper without also activating the washer pump. Has anyone done this before, and, what pins on the connector switch the wiper motor? Is it the top two?

[white exec]

Just a late, late thought: How strong is the spark while actually cranking?
Cronky starter motors can take a lot of current, and that could affect the output of the ignition module to the plugs.

In that vein, are the main battery connections clean and sound, and not getting warm when cranking?
Again, a small resistance there can cause system voltage to dip badly when cranking.

Afterthoughts only.

Rear wiper:
You could also make your added switch an 'interrupt' one, so that the washer didn't operate unless on. That would retain the handy positioning of the rear just-wipe switch.
The circuit for the switch is in Haynes. Lots of pages for BX14 circuits.

[Fumbler]

Just a late, late thought: How strong is the spark while actually cranking?
Cronky starter motors can take a lot of current, and that could affect the output of the ignition module to the plugs.

In that vein, are the main battery connections clean and sound, and not getting warm when cranking?
Again, a small resistance there can cause system voltage to dip badly when cranking.

Afterthoughts only.

That's all fine. I did check the condition of the spark at the coil and distributor when I initially had these problems. The nature of the fault I was experiencing made weak spark unlikely, especially as components such as the HT leads, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor were replaced by the PO earlier this year.

[white exec]

However new all those IGN/HT items, an excessive voltage dip on the system - when cranking, as opposed to running - could cause difficult starting.
System voltage will be 14.4-ish with engine running, but dive to 10+ during cranking (even with good kit), and 8-9v with a thirsty starter motor (or inadequate battery). Not all ignition systems can cope with that.
Just telling you, ol' friend.

[Fumbler]

However new all those IGN/HT items, an excessive voltage dip on the system - when cranking, as opposed to running - could cause difficult starting.
System voltage will be 14.4-ish with engine running, but dive to 10+ during cranking (even with good kit), and 8-9v with a thirsty starter motor (or inadequate battery). Not all ignition systems can cope with that.
Just telling you, ol' friend.

Perhaps something like this is happening, but I don't know why it would manifest itself after I replace the carburettor.

What you've said about the starter motor is rather interesting. The wire from the battery has definitely got hot as it's melted its conduit on the solenoid end. It's definitely on the "replace" list. The motor itself is tired- the front bearing has worn very thin and ir rattles when spinning down and the solenoid contacts have welded themselves together a few times, so I'll be happy to get it gone next weekend. I managed to find a starter motor that would fit this time, and I'll have fun trying to combine the misfitting unit and the old one to make a good working spare.

[Fumbler]

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Sussed the wash-wipe switch connections. This is a sort of side project as it isn't really necessary, but it's convenient. I hope to put a switch where the front foglight switch would go, so I need to find a backlit SPDT switch the same size from somewhere.

[white exec]

Good that you've tracked down a main cable that has overheated. This is usually because of a dirty connection, or sometimes just age, where what were once clean metal surfaces become oxidised. As soon as that starts, resistance builds up, and heat is then generated - which in turn oxidises the metal further, producing even more of a hot-spot. Any high-current connection is vulnerable, such as 30-40A headlight, blower, HRW, radiator fan(s), and their fuses, and certainly the main battery and starter connections, carrying 200-300A.

Interesting that you have the rear wash-wipe separation on your to-do list. I have the same here: regularly want to wipe, but not wash. Interval-wipe is also on the list for it, to cope with drizzle and spray.

[Fumbler]

Car worked so well yesterday that I took it to work. Performed faultlessly.

[white exec]

[panky]

Excellent