TZD Alternator Belt Size

roscoe · Post by **roscoe** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 12:30 pm

Hi all
I snapped the alternator belt on my TZD today and need to know what size it is as they didn't bring the diesels into Australia. It's a 5 rib belt but I don't know the length other than it is pretty short (no A/C). Anyone have part numbers (Gates, Bosch, etc) for these things they can share?
One other problem I have is the alternator was changed a few years back to a Bosch 'universal fit' jobbie and it isn't exactly the same as the original in the mountings - so I need to be make sure whatever belt I get will fit - it's likely the original alternator mounting point was slightly different meaning the belt may have been longer or shorter...not sure which

tim leech · Post by **tim leech** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 12:41 pm

Have you tried gsf? wonder if they will send you one?

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 1:52 pm

You can download a full catalogue covering most applications from this site:

http://www2.qha.com/catalogues.asp

Dimensions are listed in the product code - its something like the number of ribs (4, 5 or 6) and the length in mm.

If its not in this format its a V belt.

So QBR61132 is
QB
Ribbed - 6
1132 long.

If you look carefully at your old belt you may be able to see the length marked on it - which could save some guessing or give re-assurance.

roscoe · Post by **roscoe** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 8:58 pm

The old one was a Gates K050290 if I can read the markings correctly - their catalogue shows it for an Onan industrial engine only... 5 ribs, 18 mm wide, 740 mm long.
I'll try the local parts store for a 5 rib belt - something between 700-740 mm long should fit according to the QH catalogue and the Gates reference for the existing one.
Over the Christmas break, I'm going to pull the rad and replace that alternator with the one from my 16V parts car that has the correct mounting bolts - should solve the problem as well as allowing me to fit the A/C compressor and idler pulley.

tom · Post by **tom** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:05 pm

I have always removed the alternator from the top (and have indeed become well practised in the art

). It is not difficult, even with aircon fitted.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:47 pm

The production tolerances in the engine bay must be enormous on the TD - I first changed an alternator on my 89 TD Estate a few years ago on a camping holiday when I lost my nerve due to the effects of it chucking out 18 volts or something. Old boy who sold it to me kindly offered to let me off the deposit if I changed it in the road outside his shop (out of kindness - not his potential amusement I think) - but I thought I was better doing it back on the camp site.

I could not get it out - I had the oil filter off, thought about removing its bracket from the engine - and everything else - and removed some rubber hydraulic hoses in an attempt to get more room.

Eventually I removed the radiator top plastic mount, lifted the radiator off its mounts and just managed to get it out and the recon one back in.

I subsequently think I have removed and re-fitted one by pulling it towards the hydraulic tank and twisting. No guarantees - but if it works its easy! ( only 2 or 3 skinned knuckles)

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:02 pm

Brian,

I've found that providing you know how many ribs there are on the belt, just run a piece of string around the track the belt takes and measure it.
You'll find if you then go to the nearest SuperCheap store, they'll have a range of Bosch belts and are sure to have one within the range you need.
We've found on our 16Vs that there has been as much as 40mm difference between the smallest to the largest, so I don't know whether thius is common or if perhaps the adjustments are such that the measurement doesn't have to be within a millmetre.
Your interpretation of the belt size sounds about right, but with a Bosch that they sell it would be that say a 5 tooth belt that was 1070 around the circumference, a Bosch 5PK1070 will be the way it will show up in the Bosch catalogue, therefore if they don't have that but have say a belt showing 5PK1075, that will do the job.
Bit confusing to put into words, but as soon as you get there, you'll probably follow it when they're all laid out in front of you.

Alan S

roscoe · Post by **roscoe** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 10:03 am

Thanks all - the saga continues. Couldn't get a 5pk700 to 5pk740 belt at the three autopart places I went to, but could get a 4pk725 which I fitted with no problems and it works OK. I did some careful studying of the engine compartment and can't see how the alternator will come out the rhs headlight hole even with the bracket off - either the Bosch alternator I have is much bigger than normal or my engine/rad clearance is smaller. I think I'll have to at least pull the top rad bracket and try and move the rad somewhat to get it out. However, that is now the least of my worries - at work today I noticed a lovely green river leading from the car down the parking garage floor....two return hoses on my octopus have cracked through - probably when the old belt let go it smacked them one....One is the return from the brake valve - which I just happen to have a new one for, and the other is the one next to it - that has two small hoses tapped into it right next to the tank - think they are the front strut returns. Two small problems - one I can't even see the brake valve outlet where the hose connects to - either from the top or bottom - bloody turbo!; and the other is going to be fixing the other hose. Think I'll try splicing the cracked ones onto a 'Y' plastic fitting and that onto a 'T' into the old hose with a new bit from the 'T' to the tank fitting...at least that sounds like a plan.

Will be a nice job for Sunday - at least it's raining and cool here, not 40C and stinking hot. For the brake valve one, unless I undo the RHS engine mount and move the engine forward to get access, I think the easiest way will be to splice the new and old hoses together with a plastic connector on the inner fender - anyone got any better/easier ways to do this?

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 10:21 am

I ahve a 4 rib belt on my TD - sold to me as correct - It works OK but tends to be noisy which is a touch of slip - as I proved to myself when I made a replacement of the tensioner that a previous owner had lost/broken.

So if it sounds like a rattle from that end of the engine don't assume its serious - have a look at the belt.

Ian_Fearn · Post by **Ian_Fearn** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 5:37 pm

I've got a 4 rib on mine too, no issues with it. GSF sell these as standard fitment.

roscoe · Post by **roscoe** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:44 pm

Sorted all the leaks on the weekend - spliced my new doseur valve return line into the old one on the inner fender - used the new part on the reservoir as that is where it was leaking. Also the third return hose that has two small return lines tapped into it at the reservoir was leaking from both of them - cut them off and used two small plastic right angle joiners to connect the smaller return hoses into the rubber fitting - was a nice snug press fit and sorted that problem. After a major degreasing under it to clean everything up - no more leaks - and I still have plenty of assorted plastic Tees, straight and right angle joiners, and old bits of octopus for the future

The 4pk belt is working fine - no noise or squeals but I'm still planning on changing the alternator over the holidays to the one from the 16V as it has the correct bottom mounting bolt/fitting whereas the Bosch 'universal' jobbie in there now doesn't - and the alternator is twisting slightly on the bottom mounting due to an undersize bolt in it. That is what is causing the belt to run off center and likely buggered the previous one. But it's still a rad-out job to change it - I don't want to mess around trying to move return lines/pump inlet hose to get the alternator out the top - much easier to pull the rad as far as I'm concerned!

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:02 pm

I think you'll just be able to grab it by the pulley face and with a bit of twisting it'ss come out without removing any hoses.

Jon manages to get them out through the headlight hole - and the light just pops off its mounts that is easy too.

roscoe · Post by **roscoe** » Wed Dec 27, 2006 8:45 pm

Jobs all done - did remove the rad as no amount of twisting would get it past the end of the rad and top mount - and the rad is easier to remove than the top mount (I can R&R it in 30 minutes). Put the one from the 16V parts car in, used the 4pk725 belt and it fits a charm. While there, I retightened the sump bolts as it was seeping a bit from the back, did an oil/filter/gearbox oil/Nulon change on it, and rerouted the wiring from the starter solenoid relay I put in some time back. Car is dry underneath after my degreasing job last week, so it looks like all my LHM leaks are fixed

Next job is the oil temp gauge/sensor when it arrives in the post - then the OSR cylinder boot needs changing...more fun for the holidays.

Post by **docchevron** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 2:34 am

hhmm, this is getting worrying mate, thats over two weeks getting to you, even allowing for xmas I'd have thought it would have reached you by now????

If it doesn't arrive by the end of the week I'll fire another out, this time I'll take it to the main sorting office, I've had a lot of things "go missing" from the local Post office lately, I think a call to the GPO is called for...

Cheers
Chris G