Getting Speedlines onto rear wheels?

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Mon May 14, 2007 9:42 pm

Evenin' chaps!

Could anyone advise me on the 'magic spell' (a la Harry Potter!) needed, to get my luvverly new alloys onto the back end of my TXD hatch?

The fronts went on nicely, using the correct (new) wheelbolts, see here:

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i134/ ... G_0008.jpg

Problem arrived when I tried to get the rears on. Suspension in "high", axle stand under a solid bit at the back, smallish trolley jack lifted rear enough to have the original 14" steels with a 2" clearance off the ground.
When I offered up the Speedline (with 195/60/14, 6J rim), I wiggled it, fiddled it, shoved it, pulled it......but the bugger just wouldn't get through the gap between the caliper and rear body arch.

Is there a special 'knack' to get these on?

Cheers
Dave

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Mon May 14, 2007 9:46 pm

Dean had the same problem with his today.

I suggested simply get the hub into the centre of the wheel and lift.

Dont try pushing the tyre under the wheel arch first.

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Mon May 14, 2007 9:52 pm

Hmmmm....maybe a bigger jack would get more clearance off the floor, but really could do with getting the rear arm to drop lower!

Also...how about the locating peg fitted to the hub? Do I need to get rid of it (and how's best?). Before anyone suggests a quick blast with an angle grinder....the thought's already crossed my mind!

Cheers

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Mon May 14, 2007 10:52 pm

The locating pin is simply an extended version of the disc locating screw opposite - and unscrews - indeed it should have a small hexagon head. It can be replaced by a normal countersunk headed screw - which is a common part stocked by accessory shops etc.

Try putting the suspension on high then jack it a little further to get the wheel off. If you work quickly before it starts to drop the arm will be at its lowest. The problem may be that as the car drops the anti-roll bar pulls the trailing arm upwards.

Post by **docchevron** » Mon May 14, 2007 11:04 pm

Yeah they can be a pig! Get the car on high then jack both sides clear of the deck, as Jeremy said, the ARB keeps the arm from dropping as far as it can with one wheel on the floor.
The peg in the hub shouldn't be an issue really, the speedlines have 4 slots so they should fit at any point on the hub, as long as the bolts holes line up obviousley!

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Tue May 15, 2007 12:25 am

I normally just angle the wheel so it goes under the top lip first & then it slots in nicely, so you would need to get a bit of height with the jack.

roscoe · Post by **roscoe** » Tue May 15, 2007 2:43 am

I angle mine as well to get the top in first - a bit of wiggling and they slide up into the wheel well and then bolt on - and only have to jack one side up at a time. Failing that, let some air out of the tyre to decrease the width of it, put it on and then inflate back up. Won't be a problem this way if you have a flat either as the spare fits on no problem (unless you're using an alloy spare as well?).

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Tue May 15, 2007 6:11 am

Get the car on high then jack both sides clear of the deck, as Jeremy said, the ARB keeps the arm from dropping as far as it can with one wheel on the floor.

That makes a lot of sense. Thanks jeremy & Doc!

let some air out of the tyre to decrease the width of it, put it on and then inflate back up. Won't be a problem this way if you have a flat either as the spare fits on no problem (unless you're using an alloy spare as well?).

Ahhhhhhh! Now THAT sounds like the kind of "magic" that will do the trick!! Cheers Roscoe!

A combination of both should have Monica sitting pretty on her new boots later. I think she really looks the dogs danglies with these Speedlines!

No more trims for me!

Thanks guys for all the helpful advice...as always on this Forum!

Dave

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Tue May 15, 2007 8:36 am

You might find that you have to 'adjust' the bodywork once the wheels are on to stop them buzzing. I had to do this on my estate - more so on one side than the other so it may just be a question of tolerances.

I simply used a claw hammer resting on the tyre, with a strip of wood between the claw and the bodywork lip to spread the load and protect the paintwork. Good luck!