16TRS Auto doing 15mpg!!

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Mutz
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16TRS Auto doing 15mpg!!

Post by Mutz »

Afternoon chaps, this is my first post

Have a 16TRS Auto, 38K, full history from new. In the 1500 miles I've done since I bought it I've only been getting apx 140 miles to the tank. Also there is always a stong smell of fuel, it hesitates after taking sharp left or right turns & most annoyingly, if I accelerate hard & then brake hard, it stalls/cuts out.

Any pointers chaps?

cheers

Mutz
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

Does it smell all the time? - in which case look for a a leak somewhere - you may be able to see stains underneath the car.

Does it only smell when the engine is running - in which case is it just a smelly exhaust - suspect carburettor - or does the engine smell of raw petrol - in which case there's a leak somewhere.

Has it been serviced recently? - if not then its probably a good idea to check things like ignition leads which will deteriorate over time and won't show up on a service schedule. If you have a meter the resistance should be about 10K ohms - certainly more than 20K.

Stalling - may be combined with the above - otherwise does it run well? Is the idle slow?

Workshop manual for carb and other things can be downloaded here:

http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Must be a carby controlled XU specie then ?

I'm quite sure the carb will benefit a lot on a general overhaul job. There are still repair/overhaul kits around for both Weber & Solex carbs, covering a large range of carb variants in one kit. You simply discard non used items.
The autobox carb version will also be covered by one of these overhaul kits.

http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/Carburation/
- is a gold mine for carb overhaul & adjusting.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

:oops: ooops sorry J -
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
tim leech

Post by tim leech »

Welcome to the club MUTZ! Nice to have a new member onboard.
Mutz
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Post by Mutz »

thanx for replies chaps
Its an 1988 (E) 16TRS Auto

I remember Anders from years ago when I was trying to get a 19DTR Turbo back on the road... I lost patience then!

I've already been to a full Citroen dealer & they retuned it, fixed a split rubber vaccuum pipe & replaced dist cap & rotar arm. Surely they would have checked the HT leads? (won't tell you how much that all cost ... ouch!!) all this has made no difference.

Someone else said it may be over choking & I should get auto choke reset? Next step perhaps?

cheers
Mutz
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Post by Mutz »

forgot to ask

How do I find out what make & model of carb? & is autochoke part of it? Sorry, I'm not very technical :(

cheers
Mutz
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Post by Mutz »

Thanx Tim.

This is my French mistress:

1988 BX 16TRS Auto in white. 38,000 miles. FSH & MOTs back to new including PDI sheet. Only thing that lets appearance down are slightly tatty bumpers. Faults: Floppy drivers sun visor, floppy radio flap, front brake pad wear wires cut, heat temp knob seized and some pratt has put black sticky back plastic over the panels in the C pillar. Other than that I love it! apart from the 15mpg at present... grrrr
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

First rule of life in England is that from whatever walk of life someone comes from they are unlikely to do a good and thorough job. You have paid a dealer to sort out this car - and as you are on here he has failed - so is he likely to have checked the ignition leads?

Meters are about £5 from places like Maplins - and once you have one you'll find all sorts of other uses for it (paper weight . . .)

Full details of the carb and its applications and workings are in the workshop manual. There are also some pictures in a recent thread concerning a non-starting BX 16.
ellevie
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Post by ellevie »

You can check the basic operation of the autochoke as follows,

Remove the hood or air duct from the top of the carburettor.

With the engine completely cold the choke flap should be fully closed.
Image

Within about one second of starting the engine, the flap should open by as much as 6 mm to the so called "pull-down" position.
Image

As the engine warms up the flap should gradually move to the fully upright or fully open position. This could take about 15 minutes.
Image

For some background on the "pull-down" see http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1478
David

BX19TRS 118K E Reg 1992-2008
BX19TRS auto abs 96k F Reg
BX19TXD 150k K Reg
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stuart_hedges
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Post by stuart_hedges »

If I may begin with the obvious?

Most of the Citroens I've owned (including my own dearly departed 16TRS) have suffered from porous fuel lines. Trace all the fuel lines you can find under the bonnet and replace them. It'll cost you about a fiver and about an hour but give you peace of mind, better running, better mpg and no fires.
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Mutz wrote:... I remember Anders from years ago when I was trying to get a 19DTR Turbo back on the road... I lost patience then! ...
With me - or the DTR :oops: :?:
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
Mutz
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Post by Mutz »

lol Anders.. the project!
I still have that special tool for bottom ball joint ... oh dear
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Cheers Mutz :lol:

Hope ellevies nice pictures brings you a bit further on the problem this time :wink:


BTW : the side mounted plastic box on the carb - which is the vacuum cavity for the damper valve - tells wether its a Weber or Solex :
Weber has got a grey plastic box with a small dia rubber hose loop on top and the typical "W" weber logo on.
Solex is a black plastic box (as seen on ellevies pictures) - and sometimes have the "Solex" logo moulded in.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
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