I am wondering if it is possible to retrofit a one touch electric window switch for the use of the passenger, instead of the existing switch.
Taking it a step further how about fitting the same one touch switch to the passenger window remote switch located on the drivers door.
Any comments to the possibility of either of the above, or both of the above.
Thanks in anticipation.[/quote]
One touch electric window switch modification.
- Vanny
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fitting drivers side is easy, you need the switch, the magic black box, and the short wiring loom. Disconnect the the old 'manual' switches and plug wiring loom in for auto switches, mount box, mount switch! There is no wiring to change or modify, it really is a plug and play modification.
As for fitting to the passenger side, again not too difficult, requires a bit of jiggling with the wiring (moving connectors within the multiway connector block). If you then want one up one down control of the passenger window from the drivers side then you'll need to add two wires from switch to switch, and add a little cut and paste to the wiring!
Just to show you how simple it is, i did most of mine in a field this weekend
As for fitting to the passenger side, again not too difficult, requires a bit of jiggling with the wiring (moving connectors within the multiway connector block). If you then want one up one down control of the passenger window from the drivers side then you'll need to add two wires from switch to switch, and add a little cut and paste to the wiring!
Just to show you how simple it is, i did most of mine in a field this weekend
So it is possible then .
I should have made my post a bit clearer, the car in question already has a one touch switch for the drivers side window.
I am looking to replace /upgrade the switches on the passenger side with a one touch switch, and if possible also the remote passenger window winder switch located on the drivers door.
Could you supply a little more information on what wiring connections need swapping / moving, and what terminals on the switches the additional wires need to be run to and from.
Thanks in anticipation.
I should have made my post a bit clearer, the car in question already has a one touch switch for the drivers side window.
I am looking to replace /upgrade the switches on the passenger side with a one touch switch, and if possible also the remote passenger window winder switch located on the drivers door.
Could you supply a little more information on what wiring connections need swapping / moving, and what terminals on the switches the additional wires need to be run to and from.
Thanks in anticipation.
I think there are instructions on the Citroen DIY site for doing the drivers window.
http://www.tramontana.co.hu/citroen/
The diagram is in Haynes - easier to read when you realise that they have left the diagram labelled for LHD - ie wiring for off side door looks simple and nearside looks complicated.
The passenger door will simply be a copy of the drivers door. For the door on the other side of the car - I think you simply wire each terminal on that switch to the same one on the door switch.
http://www.tramontana.co.hu/citroen/
The diagram is in Haynes - easier to read when you realise that they have left the diagram labelled for LHD - ie wiring for off side door looks simple and nearside looks complicated.
The passenger door will simply be a copy of the drivers door. For the door on the other side of the car - I think you simply wire each terminal on that switch to the same one on the door switch.
- Vanny
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jeremy wrote:I think there are instructions on the Citroen DIY site for doing the drivers window.
http://www.tramontana.co.hu/citroen/
The diagram is in Haynes - easier to read when you realise that they have left the diagram labelled for LHD - ie wiring for off side door looks simple and nearside looks complicated.
The passenger door will simply be a copy of the drivers door. For the door on the other side of the car - I think you simply wire each terminal on that switch to the same one on the door switch.
erm, you can't fit two control boxes to the same side, and unless you want to run all kinds of new feeds then it isn't a case of simply fitting the LHD version. The passenger side window is fed from the drivers side, so you have to be very careful when fitting (or you will blow lots of pretty little fuses, like me!)
Use the link to the haynes and it should be reasonably clear if you have some basic electronic understanding. You should find you have coming from the drivers side loom, a live, a neg and two 'switch' wires, connect these up to the magic control box to give you auto and normal windows from the passenger side, and normal control from the drivers side, then add two addition wires to the loom (from side to side) to mimic the 'auto' control!
It really is quite easy, not that i've made it sound easy!
An alternative is to completely re-build the wiring and contol for the EW's.
I did that to one of my BX'es.
This includes having only 2 heavy gauge wires for the motorpower in each door, emanating from a control unit build up by dual changeover relays - for each motor.
The door control switches are modified to only carry a +12V signal current using small gauge wires - to control the relevant relay coils. Remember to use a smaller fuse rating accordingly for the smaller control wires.
Reason for using a +12V for controlling is a burnt fuse in case of wire chafing - instead of a false ground signal on chafing if using ground potiential for control.
The motor control relays should be wired to feed out a ground potiential on each motor wire, when at rest.
Wether you keep the standard EW operating control - or you upgrade to one touch - its still the same wiring using this approach.
If you are the type of diy'er who wants to minimise component count, you can get away with only a single central relay control for one EW motor.
Then using one extra switchover relay to switch between windows, you have saved at least one relay
You can still build out this to include the rear EW's. Now you can save up to 4 relays in total.
But thats for the advanced home designer ...
The snag is that only one EW can be operated at a time.
But that could be considered a safety advantage
I did that to one of my BX'es.
This includes having only 2 heavy gauge wires for the motorpower in each door, emanating from a control unit build up by dual changeover relays - for each motor.
The door control switches are modified to only carry a +12V signal current using small gauge wires - to control the relevant relay coils. Remember to use a smaller fuse rating accordingly for the smaller control wires.
Reason for using a +12V for controlling is a burnt fuse in case of wire chafing - instead of a false ground signal on chafing if using ground potiential for control.
The motor control relays should be wired to feed out a ground potiential on each motor wire, when at rest.
Wether you keep the standard EW operating control - or you upgrade to one touch - its still the same wiring using this approach.
If you are the type of diy'er who wants to minimise component count, you can get away with only a single central relay control for one EW motor.
Then using one extra switchover relay to switch between windows, you have saved at least one relay
You can still build out this to include the rear EW's. Now you can save up to 4 relays in total.
But thats for the advanced home designer ...
The snag is that only one EW can be operated at a time.
But that could be considered a safety advantage
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