Rough Running

[kiwi]

Yesterday took the BX for a long run roughly 250 kms. Got to its destination no problems except some twotish driving but thats another story.

On the way back just before the big hills the water level warning light came on, now bit history on this I have had this problem fro some time replced the sensor yet still there. Strange thing is the Water level seems to be affected on shorter rather than longer journeys.
And sometimes you can check it and suddnly its ok 10 minutes later
You see the dilemma? Blockage or worse.

Well after stopping for a bite to eat topped up the rad with about 3rd litre of water right to the neck. Expansion would just push it out which I think is whats happening.

Got to the top on the big hill stopped for the view and a few photos starts down the hill blow me light on again. 30km to home so ignored it as have done on that short trip before.

Just to drive me nuts Barke Pad wear light flickers on and off well I know that to be untrue. New pads recently!

Some other symptoms though are making me worried although dont seem to affect performance but then the BX will run on 3 cylinders happy anyways.

Noticed when idle as stutter like a spak plug not firing, already replaced a spark lead that was faulty (end came off) anround the exhaust pipe a bit of black sooty residual on the pipe.

I really do miss a decent mechanic friend even the local mechanic is a bit cagey on these things prefering to take the piss out the car choice becaue its not a Holden, Ford or a japper.

Ideas on what to look for a actions to take to check most appreciated

[AndersDK]

The water level warning is made such that a disrupted senor wiring will also set the warning light.
If you then KNOW that the level is definately OK, you should lokk for bad/corroded wiring from sensor to the electronic relay unit. Quite often exactly these twin wires are completely rotten i.e. black corroded under the isolation. Only remedy is replacing with any sensible gauge twin wire you got at home. The level sensor is by no means polarised, so polarity on the wires is not an issue.

The brake pads wear warning light will give you false warnings, if you are just ever so slightly sloppy routing the sensor wire. The sensor wires are supposed to be fixated in location eyes of the front brake shoe anti-rattle springs - exactly for this reaon. If not they will be chafed by eiher the rim inner side - or the disc - causing intermittent chassis connection and thus the false warning readout.

A stuttering engine like a missing spark plug - may be exactly that - a truly missing spark plug
If you have no history on the plugs - replace them. Do so every 2-3 years or 20-36K miles at latest.
The bad plug cable may have clogged the offended plug with soot, making it a lottery sparker.
The plug wells have a tendency to catch any fluid throwed over the engine - being rinsing water, spraying coolant or leaking oils.
Clean out with rags while plugs still located, then finish off with a good blow from a pressure line. Finally remove plugs for cleaning and re-gapping.

[kiwi]

Hate to say this you just told me how to suck eggs with a simplistic response to the obvious thats been looked at.

Spark leads Replaced from a car that does/did not stutter

Spark Plugs New within last few weeks, but will regap and check one by one for a faulty one.

Water levels proving interesting as took for a short spin and on the return noted a overflow. Could be because put to much in or could be a back pressure (cause unknown)

Brake Pad light none issue.

Another noticed problem is a higher than normal ideal speed at 1200 rpm, thats with a 19TZS Air con version. Have not figured out where the ideal screw is to adjust.

[AlanS]

I really do miss a decent mechanic friend even the local mechanic is a bit cagey on these things prefering to take the piss out the car choice becaue its not a Holden, Ford or a japper.

Ideas on what to look for a actions to take to check most appreciated

First thing I'd be trying in your hilly neck of the woods is a new radiator cap; not expensive and causes more problems than most would admit to.
Second, look at the pipe that runs from the radiator to the intake of the pump; they get soft at the elbow particularly if the inner CV boot has ever split and sprayed it in grease; they then suck in particularly under load giving a false impression to the system that it's overfilled and pumping it out all over the road.

Lastly, as for the local mechanic, give him this link and tell him go take the piss out of the new car owners instead.


http://www.motorsm.com/AUS/cars/complaints_corner_q.asp


That usually makes their hair stand on end, particularly if they own one themselves.


Alan S

[kiwi]

I really do miss a decent mechanic friend even the local mechanic is a bit cagey on these things prefering to take the piss out the car choice becaue its not a Holden, Ford or a japper.

Ideas on what to look for a actions to take to check most appreciated

First thing I'd be trying in your hilly neck of the woods is a new radiator cap; not expensive and causes more problems than most would admit to.
Second, look at the pipe that runs from the radiator to the intake of the pump; they get soft at the elbow particularly if the inner CV boot has ever split and sprayed it in grease; they then suck in particularly under load giving a false impression to the system that it's overfilled and pumping it out all over the road.

Lastly, as for the local mechanic, give him this link and tell him go take the piss out of the new car owners instead.


http://www.motorsm.com/AUS/cars/complaints_corner_q.asp


That usually makes their hair stand on end, particularly if they own one themselves.


Alan S

Firstly, Radiator cap was the first thing I changed.

secondly, That hose I checked it after reading your tip and then against the 16RS.
The hose is extremely soft right through I squezed it and if it sucks in judging by the amount of water it displaced with the Rad cap off I would be confident its the cause. The 16RS was much firmer just hope its the same size (hard to tell in the dark).
Now you jogged my memory I noted a small leak on a cold day from the clip connecting it to the Radiator it was one of the must do items one day, but leak was insignificant.

Well my local mechanic mainly deals in trucks and farm vheicles give them a complex car and they probably be screwed.

Also swaped the spark leads with the 16rs and well now the red has got the lumpy running

I got another car lined up soon as well so see how that goes.

[AlanS]

Don't lose sight of the fact that if the hose between the radiator and pump has even a pin hole sized leak in it, that's the hose most prone to sucking air in as it cools down and force feeding it into the cooling system.


Alan S

[kiwi]

Ok so day spent swapping pipes and flushing the system.

Result, One lost bleed screw by thermostat housing Located and replaced the Jubilee clip that was the sign of a possible leakage.
Noted that the thermostat housing on the 16RS was angled 20o differant to the 19TZS, hence a differant shaped hose which has been replaced before but was also showing signs of deteriation anyways.

Went for a drive after getting the speedo cable to work again, somehow slight movement affected it.(yes another job to look at).

Bugger me the Water warning light came on checked the level only 1/4 litre water replaced. So now I think there is problem with the wiring as the sensor is new anyways.

Why do I own a BX? Guess to keep my hands dirty

[ellevie]

When I bought my 19TXD about 6 months ago, it had a low water warning light fault where the light would sometimes come on even though the water level was ok. I applied some WD40 to the contacts of the sensor connector and pushed it on and off a few times to clean the contacts. The problem has not come back so it might be worth while you trying this if you have not done so already.

[kiwi]

Its going in for its 6 monthly MOT aka the WOF over here on Monday so I asked to have the engine pressure tested. Once and for all to locate this problem I hope.
If its the head Gasket well have to live it.

Since its going to be a warm day today (heck 6 nights now with out lighting the Woodburner ) will crank up the AC see if that makes a differance.

[kiwi]

It came home on a car transporter today

Took my Daughter into Kindy in town stopped a couple of over places then it happened. Gets in the car turns the key and nothing.............I mean nothing minute of so later a indication of life from the CD being ejected and dashboard lights then turned the key and nothing..........

WTF, AA called for recovery to home spends all of 15 minutes pawing over the 16RS figuring out what wire to pull to replcate the problem and bingo. It was as I thought the battery, not flat just the classic square peg in round hole scenarion. The pegs on the battery were square and come loose enough to cause a short. That also explains the starter motor issue a few weeks back to

[DavidRutherford]

PSA Lead battery clamps are utter utter rubbish. Every car I have has now had them cut off, and brass ones fitted. I even go to the length of soldering the cables into the clamp rather than just doing up the two clamping screws (if you take the screws out, that's a great place to poke the solder in)

In an emergency with a stretched clamp that won't hold on to the battery terminal, I've seen them turned over (so that the taper is now the wrong way around) and belted on with whatever's handy. (The jack last time!)

My advice to everyone would be to invest £5 in a pair of brass clamps, and bin the lead ones. They truly are rubbish.

[Doz]

PSA Lead battery clamps are utter utter rubbish. Every car I have has now had them cut off, and brass ones fitted. I even go to the length of soldering the cables into the clamp rather than just doing up the two clamping screws (if you take the screws out, that's a great place to poke the solder in)

In an emergency with a stretched clamp that won't hold on to the battery terminal, I've seen them turned over (so that the taper is now the wrong way around) and belted on with whatever's handy. (The jack last time!)

My advice to everyone would be to invest £5 in a pair of brass clamps, and bin the lead ones. They truly are rubbish.

... and they're still 100 times better than those splay-apart renault ones!!!

[Geoffrey Gould]

Hello shades of BMC or British Leyland or Morris or whatever they were called at the time with there awful lead 'top hat' clamps held in place by a self tapping screw, down through into the post, I have seen them with wood screws, silver foil, nails, washers and anything that would attempt to tighten them up when they went black and high resistant . Minor to Mini and they still used the Bl++dy things.
Sorry a bit OT But I used to hate them.

Cheers.
Geoff.