Changing fuel lines

[sausage]

Hi,

Just wondering how easy it is to change the metal diesel supply/return lines? Brenda has developed a bit of a leak and the lines need changing unless anyone can suggest a 'quick fix'. I've recently moved house so don't have the luxury of off street parking at the moment so despite wanting to do it myself, unless it's a pretty straightforward job I'll have to pack her off to a garage.

Oh, on the garage topic can anyone recommend a bx friendly garage near Bolton (Westhoughton)?

Thanks, Simon

[Kevin B]

This is not a difficult job.

A lasting repair can be undertaken as follows:

You will need a length of 6mm and 8mm semi rigid nylon tube, and 4 stainless jubilee clips.

A hair dryer is also useful to produce the tight bends required on the fuel tank ends of both pipes. I have done this repair many times with complete success.

[DLM]

The pipes WERE available at GS & F a couple of years ago - whether that's the case now I don't know. I bought a pair some time back on the "just in case" principle but other things have broken or gone west on the BXs I've owned since, so I've not had need to use them. They're not the easiest of things to store due to the pre-bends...

I'd say the major pitfall to watch out for, using either original parts or a flexitube workaraound method, is the state of the rubber tubes which make the final connection at either end. The ones which go up to the pick-up at the top of the tank are prone to perish, so removal of old pipes may put them past use. I've seen these go, though admittedly on an '89 car.

On the other hand, if you can obtain the right kind of fuel hose from a factor, then threading down at the fuel tank end might be the most sensible way to go. If an all-through flexible connection is feasible, then perhaps that might be one way to go - any views welcome.

Erm.. a final pitfall does occur to me.

If you have any doubts about your filter diaphragm (earlier models) or in-line priming bulb (later models) then consider what you'd do if these fail. You WILL need to do some vigourous priming to complete the job. If the primer expires, then you may end up with air in the system and an erratic runner at best, or an immobile BX for a while at worst.

I'm not a pessimist really - just don't want to see anybody stranded by this as I saw how badly this can affect the running when I assisted Tom in collecting an Ebay BX with this problem (and had to tow it). A new filter assembly worked a power of good when the time came for debugging (ok - it was really a known-good secondhand unit, but it did the job). Before this, it was real touch and go whether the car would even move a few yards without stalling, assuming you could get it started in the first place.

[Brian]

I have removed, prepared, rustproofed and painted my Flow /Return diesel pipes. But I did wonder at the time, if it was possible to change them for a nylon/plastic type.

Where did you source the nylon ones Kevin?..

By the way:

As a get you home tip, if the bellows on the filter unit fails to provide bleed pressure.

Use one of those silicon or similar hand protection gloves, stretch the double thickness glove over the complete bleed button and diaphram housing. Twist the over lappng part of the glove and tie under the unit, tape in place.

This will then allow the bleed pump to function..

[DLM]

Now that's the kind of frugal tip I like! It could have saved a few dramatics when I was running-out a rusty BX and the diaphragm started to decay enough to make progress "interesting" - or possibly saved having to do the towing trip I described. Nice one, Brian.