Hi all first off Hi all am new the the site and too the BX (ive upgraded from a AX )
Am the very happy owner of a BX 17 TZD '94 and WoW i love it (never thought i would say that)
also my question is or questions as ive thought of some more while am typing
No. 1 Ive got a leak on the OSR LHM i think its a O ring easy to replace?
No. 2 How do you blead the LHM ? It makes a noise and its not smoot whe the car rise's up
No. 3 How do you change the wheels? what hight do you put it in/leave it in ?
thanks all
Jon
Hello and quick Q from new member
- surrey_man
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Hi Jon.
Glad to hear you like new "new" BX, but it's sounds like you've got a problem here.
The rear LHM leak, it's highly unlikely to be an O ring. We'd need you to be a bit more precise where it's coming from.
Secondly, you don't need to bleed the LHM, the suspension system is self bleeding as it recirculates through the system, only the brakes would need bleeding in more or less conventional manner. Your problem here sounds like the struts are a bit dry, but if the car rides OK I wouldn't worry about it.
To change the wheels, put the suspension up on the highest setting.
Now just the usual safety warning. DON'T GO LOOKING UNDER THE CAR FOR LEAKS OR ANYTHING ELSE FOR THAT MATTER UNLESS THE CAR IS SUPPORTED ON AXLE STANDS OR SIMILAR.
THEY CAN AND DO DROP SOMETIMES WITHOUT WARNING.
Glad to hear you like new "new" BX, but it's sounds like you've got a problem here.
The rear LHM leak, it's highly unlikely to be an O ring. We'd need you to be a bit more precise where it's coming from.
Secondly, you don't need to bleed the LHM, the suspension system is self bleeding as it recirculates through the system, only the brakes would need bleeding in more or less conventional manner. Your problem here sounds like the struts are a bit dry, but if the car rides OK I wouldn't worry about it.
To change the wheels, put the suspension up on the highest setting.
Now just the usual safety warning. DON'T GO LOOKING UNDER THE CAR FOR LEAKS OR ANYTHING ELSE FOR THAT MATTER UNLESS THE CAR IS SUPPORTED ON AXLE STANDS OR SIMILAR.
THEY CAN AND DO DROP SOMETIMES WITHOUT WARNING.
They think it's all over, it is now!
- surrey_man
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right going realy tech now lol
on the rear theres some black rubber thing by the back wheel theres a slight leak from there from what i can see
ive not gone under the car nor taken wheel off yet to double check only had car 4 days now and cant stop driving it am so loving it and the power of turbo
the car rides fine in normal mode but had a bit of junk in the back and it was heavy stuff so i moved the lever up a level and it was bouncing all over the place any ideas? does this all make sence?
Am new to LHM cars so i dont realy have any ideas on what the bits are called sorry
on the rear theres some black rubber thing by the back wheel theres a slight leak from there from what i can see
ive not gone under the car nor taken wheel off yet to double check only had car 4 days now and cant stop driving it am so loving it and the power of turbo
the car rides fine in normal mode but had a bit of junk in the back and it was heavy stuff so i moved the lever up a level and it was bouncing all over the place any ideas? does this all make sence?
Am new to LHM cars so i dont realy have any ideas on what the bits are called sorry
Jon MISSING hes BX 17 TZD
and the Smasshed up Escort est
and the Smasshed up Escort est
- ken newbold
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The black rubber thing you describe, I think is the rear suspension gaiter, if it's leaking from the bottom end (nearest front of car) it may be split and need a new one, or it might not be just fitted correctly.
Check the metal bar that crosses underneath it, is not bent upwards as this can cut the rubber gaiter when the suspension is at the bottom.
No need to put the suspension on anything higher than normal setting, even if you were towing a caravan. The system should level itself no matter what you've got in the boot. The higher settings are really only used for getting over very uneven ground and changing wheels.
Check the metal bar that crosses underneath it, is not bent upwards as this can cut the rubber gaiter when the suspension is at the bottom.
No need to put the suspension on anything higher than normal setting, even if you were towing a caravan. The system should level itself no matter what you've got in the boot. The higher settings are really only used for getting over very uneven ground and changing wheels.
They think it's all over, it is now!
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Ken speaks truth - I'd add that the ride quality will suffer in anything but normal mode. It'll bounce a bit in intermediate, and a LOT in high!
I always rive hydraulic Citroens in normal mode, but we have a lot of those annoying speed humps in the middle of the lane round here, so I tend to use intermediate to negotiate those. You shouldn't ever drive about in High.
I always rive hydraulic Citroens in normal mode, but we have a lot of those annoying speed humps in the middle of the lane round here, so I tend to use intermediate to negotiate those. You shouldn't ever drive about in High.
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When you put the suspension on high you are basically subjecting parts of the suspension to the full force available from the regulator.
Max height means that the height corrector is open. This in turn means that full regulator pressure is delivered to the struts and spheres. The struts extend fully and then the thing tries to compress the gas in the spheres. It can obviously do this for a while as the LHM level will continue to drop for a while.
Max height means that the height corrector is open. This in turn means that full regulator pressure is delivered to the struts and spheres. The struts extend fully and then the thing tries to compress the gas in the spheres. It can obviously do this for a while as the LHM level will continue to drop for a while.