Kiwis BX is Terminally Sick

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:56 am

Shes been parked up in the Garage for the Last two weeks not in use at the moment, So out I go to start her up today and she dont want to start. Called out the AA and my worst suspicion was confirmed 2nd cylinder is full of water. Last two weeks the phantom water leak has been filling the cylinder. Blown Head Gasket

So guys what are my options, scrapping is one I do not want to consider.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:05 am

If the engine's turning over and the car won't start yet the 2nd cylinder is full of water, this means presumably you've broken something too in the bottom end because you can't compress water!

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 2:13 am

I will rephrase! 2nd cylinder is showing signs of water, the assumption made is that being parked up for two weeks its allowed for to much water to flow into the cylinder.

Noted this before over 3 or days no use but obviously two weeks was to lng to leave it standing. It fires and runs without a plug in! But yes the Head Gasket is the cause after all these many months of topping up every few days and ironically it behaving the last few thousand ks.

Possibilities which I would like to run through the experianced members we have.

Firstly any one coming to NZ who can help or In NZ?

Option 1,
Buy another BX which is an unknown of the quality.

Option 2,
Buy another BX just for it Engine?

Option 3,
I have sitting in the corner of the Garage a BX16 Engine, which according to the guy I got the car off said "engine is good with 3 cylinders registering 170 psi and one on 80 psi, could be big, could just be rings?
We drove this car back over a few step hills to get it home (160kms) and it used a bit of Oil but had the power still there. So possibly just a oil gasket?
Is it possible though to use the head of a BX16 for a BX19, if the head of the 19 is shagged? And would the compressions make a differance as to the 16 being also shagged?

To be honest even though cash is strapped...err none existant...I what to get this car back on the road, actually got to get it back on the road surviving with just the reliable Pontiac is not realy an option considering where we live and a bitch if I get some work.

Damn I hate bein a BX owner in the middle of nowhere.

Post by **docchevron** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:23 am

Just change the head gasket, and get the head skimmed whilst it's off.
It's not rocket science on an XU lump.

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:03 am

Cheers Doc, its being stripped down by moi as we speak (sort of Coffee Break

)

The Garage who happens to be the AA and my Fire Chief reckons it wont cost to much and should be expected from a 1990s car. Now he hates citreons but he did conceed it was in good nick and worth while.

But cant tell until we whip the head off, so to get the labour bill down stripping out the ancillerys before hand. Will keep you updated but the BX may live.

Well it better friggin do Im not driving asian crap again:evil:

Disclaimer! Even though I hate asian imported cars I am reluctant to admit the Korean Pontiac has been vert reliable and cheap to run.

DLM · Post by **DLM** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:52 pm

Look at it optimistically, Kiwi: if you're doing the head then you can spend a very small amount on a new set of valve guides, replace the old ones while the head's off, and save yourself any blue-smoke worries for at least another 60,000 miles. It's what I'd choose do on a standard petrol XU of any mileage where the head had to come off.

If the head is FUBARed through warping and can't be skimmed, then fear not. I'll dig out the old Car mechanics article I have on overhauling, modding and weaking the petrol XU, and check whether a 1580 head is OK on a 1905 block. I suspect it might be, as the major difference between the two is a deeper block/sump and hence stroke AFAIR - not a question of a bored-out block. There may be some differences up top, but you'll be in the ideal position to do whatever's needed if it comes to that.

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 11:04 pm

Thanks DLM, the engine has 180,000kms on it (113,000 miles) so will be weighing up the price of valves into it. She has run all here life on 95 Unleaded hopefully 91 octane shite didnt go in to often although if there was a way of getting it to run on 91 my wallet would thank me.

She goes in on Monday for her head removal, my fingers are crossed no corrosion on the head. One thing is for sure she has not been fried, never had the little orange overheating lights on.

Another thing to get out of the way whilst the cooling system is out will be to get that Heater Tap freed. Any hints on the easiest nd best way ddiscovered on how to do that without dismantling the heater matrix? Always open on an easy life for that.

Post by **docchevron** » Thu May 01, 2008 2:53 am

DLM wrote:check whether a 1580 head is OK on a 1905 block. I suspect it might be,

You suspect correctley sir!

DLM · Post by **DLM** » Thu May 01, 2008 11:58 am

]Another thing to get out of the way whilst the cooling system is out will be to get that Heater Tap freed. Any hints on the easiest nd best way ddiscovered on how to do that without dismantling the heater matrix? Always open on an easy life for that.

Have you been trying to free it manually from the footwell end on the tap itself? Much the better way to do it (apologies to eggs/grandmothers if that's already been tried). Assume you may already be familiar with the aussiefrog lawnmower mod too - Alan S has details.

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Tue May 06, 2008 10:09 am

well it finally went in to the Garage for fixing today! (Tuesday) didnt get time to look at the Heater Tap before it went in. Weekend was dominated by MVC training (Motor Vehicle Collision) Training. Five differant scenarios in 8 hours was no fun espeically the last two in pooring cold rain and a temperature that never got out of single digits all day. Yes Kiwi Summer has ended with a cold slam. Monday we ended up taking the Pontiac up the mountain into the snow zone which was quite fun on the last couple of Kms as couldnt be bothered with snow chains. Damn I missed the BX

not really had the opportunity to run her in those conditions.

Guess a week or more before she is fixed.

Bazza · Post by **Bazza** » Tue May 06, 2008 10:31 pm

Fingers crossed for you kiwi. The ones that arent frozen off of course... Is it YOU thats sending those cold airwaves this way...???

Hope the old bomb isnt too costly to get right but just think what it will be like when its done. Actually, there are at least 9 BX's for sale on TradeMe at the moment.. most of 'em under what your repair bill is going to be. but I wont mention that.

Good luck with the BX

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Wed May 07, 2008 7:11 am

Yea Bazza I have seen them! Couple wont touch with a barge pole knowing the reputation of the sellers. Missed a lovely one just over a week ago would have got for $350 but the cheeky prick that brought it wacked it in again for $795 and sold it less than a week later.

Theres another one in Hamilton but Sunroof and Aurtomatic dont appeal to me for $1200 when I weigh up what its going to cost for my repair.

State of Play is as follows!

The head is off and the Gasket is well stuffed due to years of proble typical Jafaland (auckland ) neglect in the attitude dont need anti freeze because its dont get that cold

Bit of blow by was detected on the Exhaust manifold,not major.

Heads of to the shop to get skimmed and valve compressions checked.

One thing may not need replacing is the QH Tensioner and Timing Tensioner if we can get away with it save nearly $400 for that job.

The Estimate stands like this (remember $2.5 to the quid) so this will still be shocking.
Head Gasket Set $198.22
Head Bolts $83.55
Timing Belt $69.32
Qh Tensioner $148.44
Timing Tensioner $198.22
Water Pump $92.44
Radiator Clean $84

The Auto Engineer cost to vacuum test, plane cylinder head and Exhaust manifold $235

Add the Ancillerys like Oil, anti freeze, Filter Freight&Tollls and other cleaning expendables plus 8 hours labour and GST (VAT kiwi style)

Comes to not far off $1900 about 760 Quid

Yea could get another car for that but better the devil you know!

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Wed May 07, 2008 11:09 pm

Blimey, that lot is rather expensive, do those prices include the labour?? if not, wouldnt it work out cheaper to buy the parts & get them shipped over?

E.g. i purchased a timing belt for £6 inc p&p over in blighty, cant be that much to ship???

I guess if your'e in a hurry to get your car back on the road & cant wait, then you'll have to swallow those prices....

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Wed May 07, 2008 11:50 pm

Doesn't look like they do include the labour, that's listed seperately at 8 hours. The the prices really are that bad!

I recently paid £30 a head for skimming and vacuum testing on a couple of Rover V8 heads. Still, I can't comment on the cost of living/wages etc over there but I thought we lived in rip off Britain.

(Surely it would be cheaper to fly Doc out with a good second hand head and all the bits required, pay him for his time to fit it and "jobs a good 'un"...mind you if you're paying to keep him in beer it might be cheaper to pay the garage

)

Post by **docchevron** » Thu May 08, 2008 3:00 am

I'm almost tea total these days mate, really, not much time for getting bladdered

But I shall be rectifying that this weekend! My mates getting married (stupid sod!) and I've been given the task of conveying his bride and ALL the bridesmaids to the wedding ina vintage bus, needless to say since he is also a real ale drinker there will be a selection of

in stock, and I intend to drink the place dry!

Could do with a holiday, so a trip to NZ probably wouldn't have been out of the question, although Todd's first in the list, but finding the time is proving rather difficult....

I'm thinking of cloning myself (but the clones would have more hair!)