Heater seal

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 10:54 am

As it's getting a bit cooler I thought it was time to get my heater going. I disconnected it in May because it was leaking.
Upon removing the actual mini-radiator thing ( matrix?) through which the hot water runs I realised there's nothing wrong with it. The problem is with the rubber seal that interfaces between the matrix and the plastic water inlet - it's completely perished.
It doesn't seem this thing is available anymore from Citroen so I've got to improvise. Anyone got any ideas, had similar problems?
It's a rubber seal with ten or so holes for the tubing of the matrix which seals with a push fit. I've tried silicone but to no avail because the pressure of manoeuvering the thing into place always breaks the seal

Cheers

CitroXim · Post by **CitroXim** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 11:46 am

Can you pop up a picture of it Todd?

Do you mean the plastic top part of the matrix that joins onto the aluminium part with folded-over tabs? If so, this is where Xantia Matrixes always go (I've just replaced one of mine) and a repair will be fraught with all sorts of difficulty.

GSF still list the BX matrix as being available. Part No. N17832 at £36.30

Given the tedium of pulling the dash apart to replace it, I'd be very tempted to get and fit a new one and have it over and done with...

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:19 pm

Thanks for reply Jim, I will try to take a photo today. Problem is perhaps the Mk.1 set-up is different from the later ones. As far as I can tell the matrix itself is not leaking and it doesn't actually have any plastic elements.
There is a rubber piece that goes over the ten or so tubes that enter/ exit from the matrix and this forms a seal with the plastic inlet/outlet and it is this that has degraded. Yes, a picture is needed I suppose..

As my car is left hand drive access is actually quite simple: just remove the panel below the glove box plus the bass speaker unit and there it is.

CitroXim · Post by **CitroXim** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:10 pm

toddao wrote: As my car is left hand drive access is actually quite simple: just remove the panel below the glove box plus the bass speaker unit and there it is.

That's so easy, just like in a Pug 205 wherre you can swap a matrix before breakfast...

Not like a Xantia then

In those, the heater matrix is dangled from a piece of string and the entire rest of the car built around it. The whole dash and heater box has to come out to get at it

A full days work to change it.

It might be worth tapping up GSF to see if they still have any BX matrixes in stock. I presume there is no difference between the early/late or RHD/LHD cars as far as the matrix is concerned.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 3:12 pm

Here's the photo that everyone's been hanging on the edges of their seats to see, showing the degraded rubber.

I went to see my mate who works in a scrapyard and he pronounced the thing dead and sent me to a proper old fashioned radiator factory. They seconded the verdict so I ordered a complete new unit which wasn't too dear.
While I was down the scrappers I got my mate to weld up the rear exhaust hanger while the boss was at lunch. Hence this fetching scene of two flying 80s estates ( I was going to buy one of those Mercs before I found the yellow BX)

CitroXim · Post by **CitroXim** » Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:22 pm

Ahh, all now becomes clear Todd

Pleased you've decided to renew the matrix. Best in the long run!

Your yellow one is looking very smart Todd

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:51 am

Todd, I do like your photo - has a strangely surreal quality to it (especially after a bit of wine!)

Jim, your comments on the Xantia heater matrix remind me of the time when I did a similar job on my Alfa 75 - the non functioning fan had been diagnosed as a siezed fan by the previous owner. I managed to find the complete motor/matrix/flap assembly in a scrapyard and after about 3 hours of pulling the dash off (none too carefully) it was out.
It took me about 10 hours to carefully remove the assembly from my car and fit the 'new' one, including drilling out the rivets(!) holding the dash in place and re-riveting. It was only then that I discovered the although the new motor spun perfectly (as I had already checked), the flaps for directing airflow were completely seized and inaccessible.
"Bugger", thought I, and to make matters worse, not only did my original assemble have perfectly working flaps, but the motor was fine and the problem was simply a problem with the resistor board. Which could be changed in situ, in about 5 minutes. So, back with the original set up - this time in about 6 hours as I was getting more practice than I wanted...