Kickdown cable

[Philip Chidlow]

I have a problem with the car idling in 'D'. (Auto).

The vibration's quite bad and has, in the past, encouraged me to put it into 'N' at lights etc. This is not good apparently so need to sort this out.
I've set the idle speed a bit higher, but it hasn't worked.

Doc amongst others has suggested it is possibly down to a badly adjusted kick down cable. How hard is this to do for a DIY numpty like me? (But the will is there)....

And what exactly needs adjusting and how would it cause this symptom?

[Way2go]

Are you sure that you're attributing the fault to the right area?

From what you've said it sounds like the injectors need cleaning and if you haven't done it I would start there.

You will need to take them off the car and take/send them to an equipped cleaner. Besides smooth idling, you will be surprised at how responsive overall the car then becomes even if you think it is good now.

[Philip Chidlow]

Thing is the idling is smooth and the engine is running fine. It's something to do with the combination of being stationary - foot on brake - in 'D'. Switch it to 'N' and it's sweet as a nut.

I was half planning to have the injectors cleaned before long in an effort to make sure I was getting the best out of the engine, but something tells me (like other members have) that it's not the root of the problem.

I would be happy if it was (two birds, one stone)...

[Way2go]

Thing is the idling is smooth and the engine is running fine. It's something to do with the combination of being stationary - foot on brake - in 'D'. Switch it to 'N' and it's sweet as a nut.

I was half planning to have the injectors cleaned before long in an effort to make sure I was getting the best out of the engine, but something tells me (like other members have) that it's not the root of the problem.

I would be happy if it was (two birds, one stone)...

Well we've had this conversation before haven't we? I've got the same car, had the same problem and sorted it by injector cleaning. It's up to you whose advice you choose to disregard.

The difference between idling in N and D(under brake) is that there a load imposed via the torque converter. If you have upped the idling rpm then you have increased this load too. So I do not understand why you want to disregard what is essentially an easy way to sort the problem or at least a good starting point.

[Philip Chidlow]

I really am not disregarding the advice, Way2go. No disrespect either. But be honest, you do tend to be (as a sort of BX panacea )an injector-cleaning evangelist. I should listen!

After all as it has worked for you I could be considered somewhat silly not to do it (especially as I was considering it anyway).

No need to twist your knickers, sir

Thanks, unreservedly, for the advice. Cheers.

[Jaba]

These people are good for injector cleaning : http://www.injectorcleaning.co.uk/txt.htm
You get a good report and quick return service.
I would expect other symptoms though if the injectors are imbalanced and in need of cleaning, not just vibration at idle in D.
The kickdown cable adjustment looks easy enough to do in the BOL for a quick no cost check.

[Tim Leech]

Geez Way2go chill out, people get far too hot under the collar on this forum at times.

[docchevron]

The kickdown cable is often misunderstood really.
It does a whole heap more than tell the box when the throttle is on the floor.

"idle" pressure in the box can and does have a massive effect on all sorts of variables.

Equally, what the BOL fails to describe fully is that not only must the free length of the cable be correct with the throttle butterfly at idle, it must also be the correct length at full throttle, and indeed, at any point inbetwixt.

[B-Hive]

The kickdown cable is often misunderstood really.
It does a whole heap more than tell the box when the throttle is on the floor.

"idle" pressure in the box can and does have a massive effect on all sorts of variables.

Equally, what the BOL fails to describe fully is that not only must the free length of the cable be correct with the throttle butterfly at idle, it must also be the correct length at full throttle, and indeed, at any point inbetwixt.

I guess i always thought the kickdown cable was just that. I have a glorious MK1 auto but seems to like to swap to higher gears too soon (resulting in tiresomely slow progress) unless i then kick her down with a full boot, which them sends the overall fuel consumption berserk.

Can anyone tell me the the most accurate way to adjust the "kickdown" cable for a petrol 16 auto

Thanks