24mm socket and spanner,13, 14 & 17mm sockets, Large hammers, various sockets, drifts. Optional: Mig Welder
1 x Rear Arm Bearing Kit per side, 1 x spacer per side. Rear Arm Kit available from GSF Car Parts part number N42358. 514327 shim set is only availabe from Citroen..
Please note, these part numbers and instructions do NOT apply to the BX 4x4.
Method
NB: If car has ABS, unclip sensor wire connector under rear sear, and push rubber bung and wire through bulkhead.
Jack up the rear of the car, remove rear wheels, and place axle stands under the rear suspension beam. Loosen 2 x 13mm bolts securing anti roll bar to the arm.
Place height lever in the LOW position to remove suspension pressure. Ensure all pressure is gone from rear suspension before further dismantling. Note that the car will change position on the axle stands slightly as the front drops.
Undo rear caliper (2 x 17mm bolts) and unclip brake pipe from arm. Tie caliper out of the way in order that brake pipe is not damaged. (Do not remove or loosen the long 8mm nut and bolt that holds that pads in, leaving this in place will prevent caliper from leaking fluid)
Remove U-clip that secures rear suspension arm pin to arm using pliers. Pull the long metal rod from the suspension cylinder back, keeping it inside the rubber gaiter.
Remove the 2 x 13mm bolts securing anti roll bar to the arm.
Using long bar/ratchet, undo the 24mm nut and bolt securing the arm. Remove the arm from car.
Mount arm in vice.
Using suitable socket (I used a long 14mm socket) and hammer, knock through the metal spacer tube..
The remains of the arm seals, bearing cage and spacers usually fall out, if not prise them out with a pry bar or large screwdriver..
Remove the pivot protector (plastic inner tube) . (sometime they come out easily, other times you have to resort to bashing them out)
Knock off the bearing outer-ring using something like a hard metal pipe or drift. If it does not shift I suggest Mig welding round the remains of the bearing collar inside the arm. If you do not have a welder, clean carefully inside the arm with WD40, sandpaper, then attempt to hit them out once you can see where they are. Clean inside arm with oil and a cloth, ensuring all dirt and rust is removed. Lightly grease inside the arm.
Insert new arm bearing shells at both ends, greasing them thinly and tap into place using 24mm socket and hammer. Fit and grease new bearings.
Assemble the metal spacer tube and roller-bearing, plus the oil seal thrust bush at one side.
Don't forget to insert the shim (See diagram, 514327) between bearing and thrust bush. Fit this part to the outer side of rear arm.
Then fully grease the new bearings. Fill plastic spacer tube with oil/grease.
Insert half assembled spacer and bearing into arm, and build up the bearing, seal etc on the other side.
Refitting the rebuilt rear arm in reverse procedure to dismantling.
13kgf/m is the suggested torque for the 24mm bolt.
Don't forget to bleed the rear brakes if you have split the rear caliper
Thanks for Jon Wood for the write up.
Gibbo.
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- See? English again!! Now if we all used a proper language on here (like German) this kind of misinterprewossname couldn't happen see ............... ? 
