One of the problems with the bearings is that they don't fully rotate, and only operate over a small arc, so have to put up with the loading being repeatedly taken by a small part of the track and likely only a very few of the rollers. (The small needle rollers used on the Mini, would be an even worse case, and the toll taken by water ingress/rust on these would be quite serious.)
I think you're right: given 'open' bearings, and if some added lubricant could be 'mobile' (eg oil+grease, or very heavy oil), some regular Citrobics would help move the rollers around a bit more than usual, and hopefully move some of the lubricant around.
Replacing Rear Arm Bearings
-
- BXpert
- Posts: 681
- Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2020 4:04 pm
- Location: Sayalonga, Malaga
- My Cars: 1992 BX19D Millesime
- LHD, NA, AC, RP_5800
1996 XM 2.5TD Exclusive - x 73
-
- Merseyside resident
- Posts: 3592
- Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 11:48 pm
- Location: BXProject
- My Cars: BX 16v Ph2 - Jazz
BX 16v Ph2 - XPO - x 90
Re: Replacing Rear Arm Bearings
The bearings don't need lubrication. They only ever rotate through what, 30 degrees? The point of greasing is to keep moisture out.
Every fully shagged arm I've ever taken apart has had the rollers rusted to hell. This rust, coupled with standing, is what eventually causes a roller to bind, twist and start eating the housing. So the lube/grease is to keep the moisture out rather than some how minimise friction like a normal rotating bearing.
I've strong views on the idea of needing continual lubrication, most are previously documented in the forum. There are some frankly Ill thought 'solutions'. I don't see the point. Fitting them correctly in the first place, and regularly using the car, keeps the bearings in final fettle for a long long time. I think my current ones have been in around 20 years, not showing any issues yet.
Every fully shagged arm I've ever taken apart has had the rollers rusted to hell. This rust, coupled with standing, is what eventually causes a roller to bind, twist and start eating the housing. So the lube/grease is to keep the moisture out rather than some how minimise friction like a normal rotating bearing.
I've strong views on the idea of needing continual lubrication, most are previously documented in the forum. There are some frankly Ill thought 'solutions'. I don't see the point. Fitting them correctly in the first place, and regularly using the car, keeps the bearings in final fettle for a long long time. I think my current ones have been in around 20 years, not showing any issues yet.
-
- BXpert
- Posts: 681
- Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2020 4:04 pm
- Location: Sayalonga, Malaga
- My Cars: 1992 BX19D Millesime
- LHD, NA, AC, RP_5800
1996 XM 2.5TD Exclusive - x 73
Re: Replacing Rear Arm Bearings
Agree about the rusting. When ours failed on our previous '89 19D (failure occurred around 1995), the OE bearings were found to be rusty and dry. This was despite the car being used more or less daily for its entire life.
I think you're right about the principal need is to keep water and off the bearings.
Sealed ones would be nice, but not sure whether anyone has managed to identify any.
Does anyone have a new set available, which they could provide exact dimensions for?
I think you're right about the principal need is to keep water and off the bearings.
Sealed ones would be nice, but not sure whether anyone has managed to identify any.
Does anyone have a new set available, which they could provide exact dimensions for?
Chris
-
- Merseyside resident
- Posts: 3592
- Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 11:48 pm
- Location: BXProject
- My Cars: BX 16v Ph2 - Jazz
BX 16v Ph2 - XPO - x 90
Re: Replacing Rear Arm Bearings
I've many sets, and planned to measure and upgrade next time I'm doing rear arm bearings. Just hasn't happened yet
If I find an SKF kit while I'm tidying the garage, I'll dig the part numbers out
If I find an SKF kit while I'm tidying the garage, I'll dig the part numbers out
-
- New Member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2022 11:04 pm
- Location: Burnley Lancs
- My Cars: BMW E36 TOURING 1998, CITROEN XANTIA N/A DIESEL 1993, PEUGEOT 306 N/A XUD 1.9 DIESEL 1998, NISSAN MICRA 2008, Suzuki A100 1969 and a small museum of about 50 'Valuable' Engines including a new Evinrude 1.3 litre Two-Stroke with direct fuel injection to power a kit car and various stationary engines.
- x 2
Re: Replacing Rear Arm Bearings
Weirdly enough, there's a common model of Fiat that used the exact same set up. I found this out whilst looking to buy parts for my Xantia.
I was confirmed that this is so by a motor-factor rep a few years ago.
Even the QH part number at the time the same. I have not seen the parts side by side, and as my eyesight is rubbish, decide for yourself, but at eleven-quid, must be worth looking into...
Don't believe me?
Currently listed eBay references for you to decide:
134133999216
143361463741
I was confirmed that this is so by a motor-factor rep a few years ago.
Even the QH part number at the time the same. I have not seen the parts side by side, and as my eyesight is rubbish, decide for yourself, but at eleven-quid, must be worth looking into...
Don't believe me?
Currently listed eBay references for you to decide:
134133999216
143361463741
-
- New Member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2022 11:04 pm
- Location: Burnley Lancs
- My Cars: BMW E36 TOURING 1998, CITROEN XANTIA N/A DIESEL 1993, PEUGEOT 306 N/A XUD 1.9 DIESEL 1998, NISSAN MICRA 2008, Suzuki A100 1969 and a small museum of about 50 'Valuable' Engines including a new Evinrude 1.3 litre Two-Stroke with direct fuel injection to power a kit car and various stationary engines.
- x 2
Re: Replacing Rear Arm Bearings
Confirmed: 193828475585 all C5 Xantia C15 BX are the same kit as a nine quid (cheapest on eBay at the moment) Fiat kit of bits.
-
- 1K Away
- Posts: 1933
- Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 7:54 am
- Location: Usually in the garage
- My Cars: BX GTi, C3 Auto
- x 87
Re: Replacing Rear Arm Bearings
You could very well be right as they do look remarkably similar. You have to wonder about the quality of the bearings though at that price. Thanks for opening our eyes to their suitability.
The Joy of BX with just one Citroën BX to my name now. Will I sing Bye Bye to my GTI or will it be Till death us do part.
-
- Over 2k
- Posts: 2695
- Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:54 pm
- Location: South Lincs
- My Cars: 90 Bx Tzd turbo ven red 295k
74 D Super 5 black
05 Volvo V50 2.0d 180k
65 Peugeot Boxer work van 280k - x 137
Re: Replacing Rear Arm Bearings
Don't do cheapie, they'll last you a few years and fall apart, been there done that, last sets I brought from GSF were surprisingly skf kits (for a C15) at £30 a side that was a few years ago.
The cheapie I got on ebay for £20 a side came unbranded in a plastic bag with the taper bearings in a separate box fitted OK but didn't last long.
I agree packing the whole tube with a good stodgy grease saves them, and a repack every 5 years should see you right.
The cheapie I got on ebay for £20 a side came unbranded in a plastic bag with the taper bearings in a separate box fitted OK but didn't last long.
I agree packing the whole tube with a good stodgy grease saves them, and a repack every 5 years should see you right.
90 BX Tzd turbo 294k SORN undergoing major surgery
90 BX Tzd turbo estate 46k awaiting surgery
65 Peugeot Boxer Van the new workhorse
52 Toyota Rav4 180k Bulletproof Jap reliability
90 BX Tzd turbo estate 46k awaiting surgery
65 Peugeot Boxer Van the new workhorse
52 Toyota Rav4 180k Bulletproof Jap reliability