Need help to find or make hydraulic pipe

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overehere2
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Need help to find or make hydraulic pipe

Post by overehere2 »

My 1905 gxd 1993 station wagon has a failed hydraulic pipe. It runs from the rear axle 1/3 of a way in on passenger side all the way to the front passenger side then inboard to terminate at a casting approximatly under the sterring wheel. I've removed and measured it at 134 inches/3409mm which coinsides with citroen dealers part number 96093534 at 3409 mm. Citroen dealer has none,none on ebay, none on gsf web site. From the forum I'll try Malcolm Lockwood on 01274 640590 tomorrow.
I've just found this on ebay and it could be the answer http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Citroen-hydraulic ... 3a6015dce3
I would be greatful for any further help and will post my findings as others may benefit. Many thanks.
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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold »

Where abouts are you?
overehere2
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Post by overehere2 »

ken newbold wrote:Where abouts are you?
Wow,thanks fo swift reply Ken; I'm in Holywell North Wales .
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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold »

Where has the pipe burst through?

The usual place for them to go is up alongside the fuel tank just forward of the nearside rear wheel. If this is the case I think you'll find you need to replace all four front to rear pipes. They usually all rust together.
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Post by Stinkwheel »

Is it 3.5mm pipe thats gone?

If you can tell me the length im happy to make one up for you and stick in the post (i have the 3.5mm tubing, ends and tool - just not the other sizes)
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overehere2
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Post by overehere2 »

ken newbold wrote:Where has the pipe burst through?

The usual place for them to go is up alongside the fuel tank just forward of the nearside rear wheel. If this is the case I think you'll find you need to replace all four front to rear pipes. They usually all rust together.
Hi Ken. Rust? I've told rust to keep away its not wanted -not needed-and BX's don't rust . Seriously though this station wagon is relitively rust free and a fine example. On examination the pipe failed due to wear rubbing against something which I now need to find out (to cold today). The rest of the pipe is rust free and its a pity a jointing piece could not be made to form a repair. I take your point though and will inspect the remaining pipes. Cheers.
overehere2
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Post by overehere2 »

Stinkwheel wrote:Is it 3.5mm pipe thats gone?

If you can tell me the length im happy to make one up for you and stick in the post (i have the 3.5mm tubing, ends and tool - just not the other sizes)
Thank you 'Stinkwheel. The pipe is 3.5mm (are they all that size?). and 3409 in length. Please let me know the price, include the post and I may request it slightly longer as the car is on axle stands and may be difficult to fit as origional. My email is overehere2@hotmail.com and thank you.
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Post by Linegeist »

overehere2 wrote:The rest of the pipe is rust free and its a pity a jointing piece could not be made to form a repair.
That's an interesting point. I've had a standard brake pipe flaring kit for years, and I've often made up short lengths of pipe on other cars I've owned, to replace corroded or damaged sections when the rest of the run's been in otherwise excellent condition.

Has anyone investigated a splicing method to replace runs of the Citröen stuff with more normal, available, kit?
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mat_fenwick
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Post by mat_fenwick »

I know it can be done, as Doc did a patch repair on Tim Leech's valver at the National a few years back. While it was in the parade ring! Very amusing...
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overehere2
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Post by overehere2 »

mat_fenwick wrote:I know it can be done, as Doc did a patch repair on Tim Leech's valver at the National a few years back. While it was in the parade ring! Very amusing...
It may have been a lower pressure return pipe which presummable may have been an easier fix than a high pressure pipe. if it was high pressure pipe I wunder how it was done?
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Post by overehere2 »

Linegeist wrote:
overehere2 wrote:The rest of the pipe is rust free and its a pity a jointing piece could not be made to form a repair.
That's an interesting point. I've had a standard brake pipe flaring kit for years, and I've often made up short lengths of pipe on other cars I've owned, to replace corroded or damaged sections when the rest of the run's been in otherwise excellent condition.

Has anyone investigated a splicing method to replace runs of the Citröen stuff with more normal, available, kit?
I was thinking a bx type joint using a splice connection with female fixing either end; then both ends of origional pipe would be offered up to this-the problem being swaging the ends of the origional pipe. Your idea of using a "normal flaring tool" definatley has merrit. I would assume that any added repair pipe would need to be the same small diameter to cope with the pressure and importantly the pipe has to be sufficiently gripped and not be able to dejoint. -So lets start thinking- why are the citroen pipes joined as they are?-would a regular flare joint suffice? ect-ect.-what does the citroen tool look like? and how does it work.
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Post by Defender110 »

Can ordinary modern push in speed couplings not be used? Thet are used all the time in commercial vehicle fuel systems and the high pressure air braking systems.
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Post by overehere2 »

Defender110 wrote:Can ordinary modern push in speed couplings not be used? Thet are used all the time in commercial vehicle fuel systems and the high pressure air braking systems.
I'm not formiliar with them but the idea must be sound, is this similar to house plumbing?
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Post by ken newbold »

I've spliced repair pipes in lots of times, either by just using a hexagonal connector or putting a new piece of pipe in the shortest half of the damaged pipe.
But you'd still need the pipe tool and some ends.
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Post by overehere2 »

ken newbold wrote:I've spliced repair pipes in lots of times, either by just using a hexagonal connector or putting a new piece of pipe in the shortest half of the damaged pipe.
But you'd still need the pipe tool and some ends.
So Plan B would be to buy a tool; what do you call them?
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