Removing rear suspension cylinder

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 11:04 am

In my pipe changing odyssey one of the pipe unions to the rear cylinder has - despite all caution - sheared off half way down in its thread. It started moving and then..
Anyway, I've got to remove the cylinder so I can get the b'std into the workshop and attack it there. Sphere is already off and I've followed all Haynes instructions : leak off/back pipes disconected, clip removed. Then it's almost meant to fall out according to Haynes, just a slight tease of the rod around the sub-frame.
But.. I can't make it move anywhere let alone free. I don't even know what's going on behind the boot having never seen one of these 'naked' and there's no pics anywhere that I can find. The club archives going back five years offer no joy.I'm sure it's straightforward. What's to do and what are the possible snags/pitfalls considering how corroded the pipe union was?

Cheers

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 11:23 am

Is the cylinder loose in the holder? There's nothing actually holding it there other than hydraulic pressure so if it isn't rattling around it sounds like it has corroded into position.
Or do you mean you can't remove the rod from the suspension arm. Sorry if I'm sounding daft but not 100% sure what you mean...

I can take a photo tonight of a spare strut (minus boot) but not sure if that will be of any help.

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 11:32 am

Yes, it's rattling around in there, so not corroded into place. I can't remove the rod from the arm. Probably later I'll wonder what the problem was but I just can't visualise it right now myself!

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 11:41 am

Have you got the pin out from the arm (bit like a man sized safety pin...)?

The end of the rod (snapped off in my photo!) fits into a cup on the arm and rusts in very well. If you can apply an impact to the end of the rod that should hopefully shock it loose. Copper grease or similar will help when putting it back to together (notice I said 'when' not 'if' - you have to think positively with old cars!)

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 11:47 am

Cheers Mat, I'll give that a try when I return to 'the ice cave' ( just thawing out). That broken bit doesn't fill me with seasonal cheer. Then got to work out how to shift that fractured union next. Winter sports for masochists!

And, yes the clip out as advised by messr. Haynes

Gibbo2286 · Post by **Gibbo2286** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 12:10 pm

This any help?

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 12:17 pm

Gibbo, that's bloody marvellous. Thanks. I didn't think of looking there. How can you link directly to the service Citroen site to post pics? Whenever I try to post pics from there they disappear as soon as my 'session has timed out.'

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 4:41 pm

As you suggested Mat, impact with a hammer freed the rod and now it all seems so simple! Unfortunately the seized pipe union was not.
I was forced to drill it out and tap it which the alu casing didn't go for. Eventually I teased out the remains of the old union with a screwdriver so there was still some thread remaining. Its all back together and only when I pressurize will I find out whether its sealed or not and whether I'll have to fit another strut.

KevR · Post by **KevR** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 6:30 pm

Could you helicoil the thread...?

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 6:45 pm

I don't think that the alu would take the helicoil. Or I don't have the 'technology' or the skill to make it work really. The only other rear strut that I could get hold of is on that wrecker GTI sat in a friend's field buried in a metre of snow! But I'll cross that bridge when I know if the 'repair' works or not which won't be for a few days as its missing so many pipes right now.

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 7:23 pm

I think you'll be OK as it's actually the rubber that makes the seal and the union nut isn't supposed to be that tight anyway.
I've done in the past the same as you and it's always been OK.

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 8:09 pm

You can use xantia rear struts if they are more plentiful, i believe you just need to file down a section of the strut so that it'll fit just like a bx one would. Might save a bundle of dosh as well?

Post by **docchevron** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 11:30 pm

toddao wrote:I don't think that the alu would take the helicoil.

It will ya know.

Mulley is right, you have to file the union port down, and use the BX pushrod though.