16TZS starting well hot or cold and clutch sorted

maxgreenwood · Post by **maxgreenwood** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:39 am

Work on the new 16TZS is progressing, received the clutch cable and rear spheres yesterday which i'm hoping to fit in the next few days. I've got to the rust with rust converter as best as i can to slow it's progress while i do other mechanical stuff and work out whether this will become my day to day car. I'm even contemplating doing the rear arm bearings myself which will be a new adventure.

One big problem at the moment, and i'm wondering if i can avoid having to spend at the garage, is starting the thing

- It is clear from comments on the forum that the auto-choke gives problems - 'A nightmare' as my friendly Citroen garage guy dramatically remembers.

So mine starts absolutely fine when hot. But is it a nightmare when cold. I have to crank it solidly for literally a couple of minutes before anything happens. It's a good job it's got a strong BMW battery in there, prob the reason it was fitted to be honest. And once started it runs at a high idle, about 1500 rpm for a bit and then after a while sometimes a low idle, making it cut out at roundabouts, that sort of stuff! Once it's warmed up it's great.

Where do i begin?

The garage says about an hour to test and setup the carburettor + choke situation.

scarecrow · Post by **scarecrow** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:56 am

Well, if it's any consolation, the manual choke can be a nightmare if it malfunctions too - and they do! I know Carb. components are difficult to source. The garage that "fixed" my old Solex had to get a part from Germany (choke vacuum unit, I think). Could you not source a second hand Carb, get it serviced and then fit it yourself?

maxgreenwood · Post by **maxgreenwood** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:32 am

had a look in the carb and choke flap is nearly completely open when cold, must be the cause of the problem. There is fuel in the bottom corner of the filter so i suppose it's not draining back?

Should i try and adjust it back?.. i have some carb cleaner - is this a good idea - may free it up , maybe it's stuck? it's pretty dirty gungy black in there round the sides.

maxgreenwood · Post by **maxgreenwood** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:23 pm

I sorted the knack of starting from cold anyway, a few pumps of the throttle before starting and it springs into life pretty easily. I've no idea if the carb is set up right though. I'm taking it into the garage on Wednesday to get the clutch cable fitted and get an opinion on the car as a whole. Not sure how much work it's worth doing on it really.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:11 am

before trying to adjust/set up the choke butterfly, check the wax state is not stuck in the fully open position,

and whilst you have the cast alloy houseing off clear/clean the in and out water/coolant ways trough,

if they are blocked with build up of furr/corosion the coolant can not get to the wax state,

then if you end up haveing to adjust the butterfly make sure you it has a slight gap so not fully on/closed whilst stone cold,

regards malcolm

Post by **Tim Leech** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 9:54 am

Hi Max, when starting from cold DO NOT press the throttle at all, its normally the other way round with the solex carbs, being a pig when warm. Could be that the autochoke isnt working all?

maxgreenwood · Post by **maxgreenwood** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:02 am

Hi Tim,
if i don't press the throttle when starting it takes about 5 minutes of cranking the starter, which is a bit too much comedy for our neighborhood! I suspect fuel is draining back to the tank or something, the fuel filter certainly has very little left in it when left overnight, it's a small clear plastic thing on this so easy to see.

Also, the choke flap was completely open when cold when i looked under the air intake the other day, it should be closed with a slight gap according to my mechanic, so as to 'choke' the intake of air upon start up.

I suspect things have might been fiddled with so it runs ok - exhaust gases seem a light grey and economy ok - but the auto choke is kinda ineffective now, so you have to flood it a bit to start, maybe

Anyway i'm planning on having it in the garage for an hour tomorrow for the clutch cable and to get a verdict from the man with experience.

I'm really not sure how much it is worth pursuing getting this car right. I may well have to pass it on once i've done the few things i can do. I've still got my sights on a nice sorted Mk1 19RD which i'm looking at in a couple of weeks. And having to pay the Vehicle Registration Tax here on UK imports means I need one that's worth it!

I am selling the XM to fund all this, i'll post some info and pics up here somewhere.

sdelasal · Post by **sdelasal** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:15 am

max - are you sure you're following the correct start procedure when cold - as described in the owners manual? Some ask you to depress the accelerator pedal to the floor before crank and hold, others says don't touch it - for example. Steve

Post by **Tim Leech** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:19 am

Hi Max, i do have a spare carb, which I was saving for as a spare but if it means you not selling the TZS then I dont mind parting with it.

maxgreenwood · Post by **maxgreenwood** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:38 am

Tim,
Ok thanks for the offer, I'll bear that in mind. I'll see what the mechanic says tomorrow, and it may well be along the lines of 'what you could really do with is refurbing or replacing the carb'

thanks
Max

maxgreenwood · Post by **maxgreenwood** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 11:40 pm

I tried and failed to do the rear spheres so got her into the garage and they did them, lubricated the clutch fork / L-arm thing (was partially seized), checked gearbox oil level and had a look at the carb. He thought it looked like someone has slackened the spring controlling the choke flap so he tightened it, now in correct position cold, just a little open, and the thing starts great whether hot or cold, and they didn't charge me too much so that's good

It didn't need a new clutch cable. The clutch is alot lighter and is driveable now, but it does need a new one really. I can't afford that at the minute. I want to see what mpg i'm getting and make sure the carb is setup right. Cleaning the hoses around the waxstat as you said Citronut sounds like a good idea.

one of the struts is leaking, we thought it would be the return pipe not on properly but it's the strut, so i'll be looking for a good s/h pair, i don't think they're still available new. The other side has wear on the silver so i'd like to change them both. Why did i give away a good 70k pair with my last BX?

Really enjoying the car though. Much better than XMs!

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 12:10 am

There is a secondhand set for sale in North Wales (not mine) but I'll let the seller know you might be interested.

maxgreenwood · Post by **maxgreenwood** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 12:15 am

Hi Mat
yes do let me know, if they're a good set.
cheers

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:56 am

Glad you're getting the new BX sorted Max. New struts are still available from Citroen : a pair will set you back €1300 only. And they wonder why we call them 'stealers?'
When you have your first platinum disk you can invest in a pair!

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:28 am

here is price and part No., you had better sit down

Part Number Description Quantity Price excl. VAT Price incl. VAT Total incl. VAT Selection
95650942 SUSP CYL ONLY 566.62 GBP 679.94 GBP 679.94 GBP

what is the exchange rate for EURO's now then

regards malcolm