MOT DAY 16TRS
- Tim Leech
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MOT DAY 16TRS
WTF is in for her annual inspection, oil change, a pair of drop links and ball joints to cure the "clattery" front end.
Its done about 400 miles since last year so I cant imagine much to be wrong!
Its done about 400 miles since last year so I cant imagine much to be wrong!
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
- rayfenwick
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Good luck Tim!
Ray
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)
1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)
www.citroencarclub.co.uk
- ken newbold
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- x 5
- mat_fenwick
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- Location: North Wales
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Funnily enough I've just woken the 205 from its winter rest for an MOT today. Happily enough it's passed with only a couple of advisories, but again, it's only done about 2k miles since last year so I wasn't too worried. Cost has gone up a fiver to £40 though.
I'm a bit puzzled though - if you've just ordered the knuckles then which did you order? Of if they're ordered them you'll find out soon enough. I don't think we can tell from here!
It's probably just a pre-selected option on the MOT system that doesn't let the tester be any more specific on the fail sheet.
I'm a bit puzzled though - if you've just ordered the knuckles then which did you order? Of if they're ordered them you'll find out soon enough. I don't think we can tell from here!
It's probably just a pre-selected option on the MOT system that doesn't let the tester be any more specific on the fail sheet.
- Tim Leech
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It had new steering arms/track rods last year so its the steering rack inner ball joints this time!ken newbold wrote:Think we've just had this one on another thread
Does he mean "track rod ends" or "steering rack inner joints"
Ive sent the balljoint and drop links back as they are fine.
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
Roverman wrote:.........................
Right what does he mean by these knuckles then lol (already ordered £12 each)
Tim, As Ken has stated /\ , read thro' that thread (LINK) because in my experience (When changing the N/S knuckle/joint) on PAS models you will also need the Steering Protector (Rubber Boot):- 91 507 343 as described in the linked/thread !ken newbold wrote:Think we've just had this one on another thread
Does he mean "track rod ends" or "steering rack inner joints"
The Citroen tool to remove/change the knuckle joint is '8.0707-T' if you can borrow one, or alternatively I've used a large plumbers wrench to remove/change them in past with no problems !
You can see what the tool looks like in this PDF which also shows you how to get to the knuckle joints from under the gaiter and the steering protector (Rubber boot) which normal gets Fubared (fig. ref. '82-2147 & 82-2146' ) in the PDF (Note that the PDF is for a LHD model) !
If your getting your workshop/mechanics to change them for you I'd print off the PDF to show them what the job/task involves !
Also check that a new washer lock/plate comes with the knuckle joint's !
These fit between the end of the inner rack and the knuckle joints (See fig. ref. '86-1228' of the PDF) if there after market ones they maybe supplied, as the washer lock/plate were NLA by the main Citroen dealer many many moons ago !
If the washer lock/plate are not supplied with the new/replacement knuckles give me a call and I'll explain to you what you'll need to do, to enable to re-use the old ones !
I hope this is of help to you/others.
Last edited by RxBX on Wed May 11, 2011 10:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
Tim,Roverman wrote:Parts are here, they are mid way in stripping the steering rack out, he cant get at the offending parts with it in situ and we cant get a tool from anywhere so its a case of take the rack out and then get the joints off wich wont be cheap .
Who's he ?
Is it one of the mechanics where you work doing the work in your workshops ?
As I had no problems replacing the knuckle joint's with the rack in situ on my drive at home !
I replaced them on a DTR Turbo (Which I had at the time) lying on my back with the car supported on axle stand's, so if it is your workplace with all the best facilities available to them (I.E. the choice of every type of hydraulic lift/ramp) what the hell are they faffing around at
As regards to the removal tool I used to remove the knuckle joints, as already stated in my previous posting I used a plumbers wrench to to unscrew them !
.
- Tim Leech
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Yes its my friendly mechanic, who has tried to get at the joints on the car but cant get a wrench at them as things are in the way. Im kinda stuck as its failed its MOT, which has expired so will need to get it done and I cant do it myself!RxBX wrote:Tim,Roverman wrote:Parts are here, they are mid way in stripping the steering rack out, he cant get at the offending parts with it in situ and we cant get a tool from anywhere so its a case of take the rack out and then get the joints off wich wont be cheap .
Who's he ?
Is it one of the mechanics where you work doing the work in your workshops ?
As I had no problems replacing the knuckle joint's with the rack in situ on my drive at home !
I replaced them on a DTR Turbo (Which I had at the time) lying on my back with the car supported on axle stand's, so if it is your workplace with all the best facilities available to them (I.E. the choice of every type of hydraulic lift/ramp) what the hell are they faffing around at
As regards to the removal tool I used to remove the knuckle joints, as already stated in my previous posting I used a plumbers wrench to to unscrew them !
.
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
Now I'm pretty adventurous when it comes to doing my own work on the cars.
So when I needed to replace the axial ball joints I was keen to do so with everything in situ...but as hard as I looked and tried there was no way that I could see getting a wrench of any sort in the space provided to remove these parts....
Eventually I had to remove the whole rack.. certainly no walk in the park but did allow me to clean everything up and ensured i replaced a very tired the hardi disk as well. Whilst it was off the gaitors were a snap.
So ..I'd agree I cant see the job possible with the rack in situ..but at the same time acknowledge that if it has been done it must be possible ..and props to those who manage to do it.
So when I needed to replace the axial ball joints I was keen to do so with everything in situ...but as hard as I looked and tried there was no way that I could see getting a wrench of any sort in the space provided to remove these parts....
Eventually I had to remove the whole rack.. certainly no walk in the park but did allow me to clean everything up and ensured i replaced a very tired the hardi disk as well. Whilst it was off the gaitors were a snap.
So ..I'd agree I cant see the job possible with the rack in situ..but at the same time acknowledge that if it has been done it must be possible ..and props to those who manage to do it.
Current
85 BX GT Mk1..
86 BX TRS Mk1
87 BX TRi
Gone
85 BX TRS mk1 auto... SOLD
90 BX TRi..parts....cubed
85 BX GT Mk1..
86 BX TRS Mk1
87 BX TRi
Gone
85 BX TRS mk1 auto... SOLD
90 BX TRi..parts....cubed
You obviously, didn't try hard enough2BXORNOT2BX wrote:................
So when I needed to replace the axial ball joints I was keen to do so with everything in situ...but as hard as I looked and tried there was no way that I could see getting a wrench of any sort in the space provided to remove these parts....
So for the third and final time, I'll state that I DID change the knuckle joints on my BX DTR Turbo with the rack in situ, on a vehicle that had only done approx 53k and with a fresh MOT which was only 14 day's old prior to me buying the car (In fact my first BX) !
If I'd had the use of a proper workshop with lifts/ramps I'm sure I could have done the job in halve the time (Rather than lying on my back with the car supported on axle stands) !
Last edited by RxBX on Thu May 12, 2011 9:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Tim Leech
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Good for you.RxBX wrote:[So for the third and final time, I'll state that I DID change the knuckle joints on my BX DTR Turbo with the rack in situ, on a vehicle that had only done approx 53k and with a fresh MOT which was only 14 day's old prior to me buying the the car (In fact my first BX) !
Well volunteered for the next lot!
The TRS hasnt done 44000 mils yet, but is 22 years old this year.
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....