can't tighten droplink to arm bolt...

themildbunch · Post by **themildbunch** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 9:05 am

hi - panic holiday problem....

removed both old droplinks... no problem... fitted new aep ones with new nylocs...

tops were easy but the bottom nut on one goes on so far and then the joint just spins... can't get it off or on any further now!! I've had the car up on one side to put pressure on the ARB but this doesn't really help...

the nut is on with about 5mm of thread out of it so the joint it on and it doesn't look like it'll come apart as it's a nyloc but I'd obviously like to tighten it up correctly...

BIG question is this safe??

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 9:15 am

Try tightening up with a plain nut, to seat the taper (if you can remove the nylock!) Then remove and replace with a nylock - which should now go on without the joint spinning.

Also, some droplinks have a 5(?)mm allen key hex in the end for you to hold whilst installing.

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 9:24 am

I once had a similar situation and solved it by making a "taper tightening tool" such as in the sketch below:

The tool consists of a nut welded to a bar with two threaded holes. The idea is to turn the central nut to the end of the joint thread, and then pull the joint taper tight with the two screws going through the threads. The nyloc can then be tighteded while the tool keeps the joint from spinning.

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 9:32 am

..and you can of course try to use some suitable wedge (e.g. a spanner) between the nut and the arm to pull the taper tight into the seat.

themildbunch · Post by **themildbunch** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 10:22 am

hey - thanks... all excellent panic free solutions...

I've solved it now by jacking the bottom of the droplink to hold it some more... was finally able to remove nyloc and remove new droplink and have a look...

The thread had stripped just before the tapered section of the new droplink!

I'd originally fitted it last night and used a new nyloc. It wouldn't get to the 32.5 lb torque quoted in Haynes and then went loose... Then I got half way through removing this nut and I got stuck....

I've had to end up fitting the original droplink back on which was actually OK - what a waste of time... I'm definately sending this one back - photo soon...

Adrian

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:59 pm

its been a long time since i have done BX drop links, but dont the swivle pins have a straight shank and not tapperd,

then two flats at the outter end to hold with a spanner,

regards malcolm

rmattila · Post by **rmattila** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 1:20 pm

citronut wrote:its been a long time since i have done BX drop links, but dont the swivle pins have a straight shank and not tapperd,

then two flats at the outter end to hold with a spanner,

That's the top end. The bottom end has a tapered shank:

http://www.rmattila.com/images/remontit ... 20035.html

-Riku