Hello everyone
Can anyone say why the dieselengine has such an ugly turn in the mornings? its like its just before it is going to stop, shaking alot, and the exhaust is always unclean white and foggy
I also can not manage to get the headrests out of the back seats, how the ¤%# do i get them out? or are they welded on??
I also need to change to winter tyres about now, but the rims on the wheels that came with the car doesnt have that little hole to put the pin from the brake disc through, if you know what i mean, and i was wondering if its a bad thing to grind it away?
thanks
quarrelsome dieselengine after a damp or cold night
- ken newbold
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Your starting problem could be due to a faulty wax-stat, this is supposed to give excess fuel to the pump for cold starting, as the engine coolant warms up, the wax-stat releases slowly and allows the pump to slow down.
New ones only cost about £10-15 GBP
The rear headrests should just pull up out of the seat back
And the rear wheel locating peg should just pull out with mole grips or unscrew depends which one it is.
New ones only cost about £10-15 GBP
The rear headrests should just pull up out of the seat back
And the rear wheel locating peg should just pull out with mole grips or unscrew depends which one it is.
- ken newbold
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First I'd check that the wax-stat is faulty. When the engine is cold, the cable should be very tight, pulling the lever on the fuel pump over. If it's already tight, your problem could be something else, maybe your fuel draining back to the tank caused by an air leak somewhere, or even a glow plug failure.
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Glow plug failure is a common problem. Try giving the plugs two bursts, and wait for the relay to click off rather than just the light going out. If that cures it, you probably need to fit new plugs. I've got two diesels (BX and Range Rover) and they're both quite crap at starting cleanly at the moment.
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Don't grind the disc peg off or you'll have trouble when you go to change the discs.Unscrew it and replace it with a countersunk screw if you must. Or drill the wheels to suit. One thing to check though - some Peugeot wheels which are the same stud pattern have a different offset as well as not having the peg hole and you may find no clearance in the rear arches if you fit those. I had the same problem a while back.
If you want to check the glow plugs, remove the connecting strip from all four and disconnect the feed from the control box. Then check for continuity on each one separately using a multi-meter or just a bulb and battery (one side of the bulb to car's battery positive terminal, the other to the terminal on the glow plug - if it lights, there's continuity). If there's continuity, it's probably ok, if there isn't, it's definitely not. No point changing all four if only one (or more likely two by the sound of it) are bad.
If you want to check the glow plugs, remove the connecting strip from all four and disconnect the feed from the control box. Then check for continuity on each one separately using a multi-meter or just a bulb and battery (one side of the bulb to car's battery positive terminal, the other to the terminal on the glow plug - if it lights, there's continuity). If there's continuity, it's probably ok, if there isn't, it's definitely not. No point changing all four if only one (or more likely two by the sound of it) are bad.
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!