Engine mountings and synchromesh

[Dollywobbler]

The Mk1 is getting very clonky at the front end. Some of that is probably a worn track rod end (on the to do list) though I'm hoping the clonk I can generate by thumping a lifted wheel is not rack...

However, I'm also suspecting the engine mountings. With so much oil leaking, the rubber is bound to deteriorate. There's a cross bar (front to rear) that goes underneath the engine. The sump is almost catching this and releasing the clutch sharply induces a thunk and plenty of engine movement. So, I know about the top mounting. Where are the others and are they simple to replace? Remember it's a Mk2 engine in a Mk1. Not sure if that makes a difference.

[Vanny]

In quick summary,
1) Engine top mount
2) 2 engine top mount buffers (i'm making an assumption that the Mk1 has these)
3) Gearbox mount (on the top, under the battery)
4) Lower engine mount in drive shaft retainer (not sure if these are found on petrols), big, round, obvious, linked to;
5) Lower engine mount from subframe (bit like a lollipop, sort of, if you squint).

For a diesel, these can all be bought in a more modern GroupN rubber type which is more resistant to oil and potentially will outlive the owner.

[Dollywobbler]

Thanks Vanny. Looks like more shopping in order! Hopefully it'll cure the clutch judder or at least make it feel less like the engine is about drive off without me!

[citronut]

here is the price and part No. from service citroen for the lower engine mount/stabilizer bush

Part Number Description Quantity Price excl. VAT Price incl. VAT Total incl. VAT Selection
0000180921 FLEXIBLE BUSH 21.01 GBP 25.21 GBP 25.21 GBP

GSF used to sell this bush for around £6 squid,

regards malcolm

[KevR]

For a diesel, these can all be bought in a more modern GroupN rubber type which is more resistant to oil and potentially will outlive the owner.

Got a link to a supplier...?

[Dollywobbler]

Aye. Haven't found 'owt by searching. Sounds like the way to go.

[Vanny]

http://www.bakerbm.com/205.php?data=engkitn205

I've had rather too much stuff from Stuart (Baker), coolant hoses, oil hoses, AFM hose, buffers, all of which I'm perfectly happy with.


The buffers need some small modification of the CAR to fit (they are a perfect match for the 205, but the BX is a little different);
http://www.bxproject.co.uk/news.php?item.19.10

[Dollywobbler]

Thanks. Another query - related. Is it possible to repair a gearbox with broken first gear synchro? I could just drop another 'box in, but we'll soon reach the stage where we'll have to fix what we've got. Seems fine otherwise but try as I might, I can't double-declutch around the problem.

[Vanny]

It's a diesel, start in second!

I've not yet pulled a cog box apart, but you can change the mesh and it is often done to extend gearbox life. Have a look in the Haynes, cry when you see how many parts there are, put the haynes down, and go on ebay for a new cog box!

[Dollywobbler]

I can't start in second. See engine mounting issue! It really doesn't like it. I need to talk the 2CV Gearbox Guru into tackling transverse 5-speed units. He changed the synchro hub on my 2CV and made it look horribly easy.

I need to be a bit careful about turning this into a mammoth job. If the gearbox has to come out, so does the engine. No point putting a leaky, feeble, incorrect-for-year engine back in, so might as well replace that too. (not sure where I could get a correct-for-year gearbox mind). With the power unit out, all sorts of jobs become a good idea! Clutch, octopus, any necessary welding...

[Vanny]

engine most certainly does not HAVE to come out with the gearbox. In fact the BX is the easiest car to get the gearbox out of that i've ever come across (yeah so my range is limited, but still).

Your right though, its a slippery slope, three years ago i wanted to tackle a pin hole over the wing. Ended up replacing the front of the car!