I 've become aware of a drive line noise when travelling straight ahead above about 60 mph.
The noise will go if the car is deviated left or right and then return as soon as we travel in a straight line.
I am thinking wheel bearing / c.v 's or perhaps diff.
There is a slightly harsh sensation through the steering as well.
Anyone any thoughts ?
Tim.
BX 17 Turbo D. Estate.
Drive line noise
Hi,
It could be a wheel bearing, but in the past I have noticed that when they start to beak up slightly, the noise tends to increase when deviating from the direct ahead position...
It is quite difficult to decide which wheel is causing the problem when in the early stages, best to run it a while to see if the noise gets any worse, then you stand a better chance locating the offender...
Best of luck.
It could be a wheel bearing, but in the past I have noticed that when they start to beak up slightly, the noise tends to increase when deviating from the direct ahead position...
It is quite difficult to decide which wheel is causing the problem when in the early stages, best to run it a while to see if the noise gets any worse, then you stand a better chance locating the offender...
Best of luck.
-
ken newbold
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It could be any of the things you've mentioned. First option and cheapest, change the tyres round, fronts to rear. This will prove or eliminate your tyres, also try pulling the handbrake on slightly to see if the noise goes, it could be just a pad thats trailing or a worn disc.
If it's still there you'll need to look a bit deeper, visual and manual inspection of the hubs and drive shafts.
If it's still there you'll need to look a bit deeper, visual and manual inspection of the hubs and drive shafts.
Funny how things seem to go in numbers.
On another forum there's a guy with a 16V having the same problem.
We had it on our series one 16V (a UK import) and found it was caused by the water shield behind the rear wheel bearing & seal being eaten out with the salt allowing water to access the rear wheel bearing.
To remove, I grabbed a piece of solid steel bar about 4/5mm thick and about 50 mm wide by around a foot long, drilled two holes to match up with the holes for the wheel studs, slackened the big nut on the rear stub axle and fitted the two wheel studs. Tightened, gave the steel a hit directly in line with the end of the stub and had the lot off in a couple of seconds.
Replaced the rusty metal and fitted a known good bearing and problem solved.
To see if this is the problem, jack the car up side at a time and spin the wheel. If it's the problem, you'll soon hear it.
Alan S
On another forum there's a guy with a 16V having the same problem.
We had it on our series one 16V (a UK import) and found it was caused by the water shield behind the rear wheel bearing & seal being eaten out with the salt allowing water to access the rear wheel bearing.
To remove, I grabbed a piece of solid steel bar about 4/5mm thick and about 50 mm wide by around a foot long, drilled two holes to match up with the holes for the wheel studs, slackened the big nut on the rear stub axle and fitted the two wheel studs. Tightened, gave the steel a hit directly in line with the end of the stub and had the lot off in a couple of seconds.
Replaced the rusty metal and fitted a known good bearing and problem solved.
To see if this is the problem, jack the car up side at a time and spin the wheel. If it's the problem, you'll soon hear it.
Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.