CV Boot destroyed by Handbrake support

[kiwi]

Much to my horror while I was doing a quick repait to the strut return hose.

One the Ties that holds the Handbrake cable to the strut snapped off and was left dangling at the end of the handbarke cable. Only one thing for it to do and that was act like a knife to the CV Boot. Not content with that I noticed a few shiny grooves carved at the end probably a result of the CV Joint itself now grease free. How long it been like that I don know the wife drives it but no more than 3 months since I stole her 4 season tyres

Never done a CV boot replacement before (time to learn) what tools do I need beyond what the Haynes recommends of a special tool? I know you can get the wrap around cheapos but not in this country you cant so real boots it is. Also I am hoping that the joint has not been dry for to long.

[tim]

Answer is that the job is fairly simple and you don't need special tools. But you didn't say which side; the driver's side has an outrigger bearing on the driveshaft that may need decent access from underneath and a drift. The boot itself is cheaply available from any motor factor. Once the drive shaft is off it's a fairly quick job on the workbench. The ONLY thing is, I've done two now, i.e. knocking off the outer part in order to fit the new boot. In both cases the driveshaft didn't like this very much and packed up soon afterwards. And no, I didn't animal it. It may have been just coincidence but I merely point it out.

[mat_fenwick]

If you're doing the long driveshaft an 11 mm ratchet spanner or deep socket is useful to speed up loosening the intermediate bearing retaining nuts. Some people suggest mole grips on the shaft braced against the drop link in order to knock the outer joint off, but I prefer to take the shaft off and hold it in a (copper jawed) vice.

Check CV boot for fouling on full lock - I only recently realised that pattern CV boots are simply a range of generic sizes, and whoever compiles the parts catalogue simply selects the one that most closely matches the application. I ended up with one that was a little on the large side, and wore a hole through shortly after fitting.

If the gearbox oil seal has been in there a while I replace them, but I'm probably erring on the side of caution as a lot of people leave it and don't have leaks.

[kiwi]

You guys lost me with what you just said.

The CV boot is the outer CV boot on the Drivers Side (offside), I did not realise that you had to completely remove the shaft to replace the boot????? If thats the case I will just whip off the shaft off the other car or the one I have spare provided the boots intact.

As for price last time had one done it was quite cheap and labour cheap so it did not sound that big a job.

[Way2go]

I did not realise that you had to completely remove the shaft to replace the boot?????

If you use a stretchy boot it can be done without removing the shaft (apart from disconnecting from the hub). Unipart are a good source of quality stretchy boots.
Just remember to turn it inside out before you slide it over the cone..............

[Geoffrey Gould]

Hello it seems that some pattern hand brake cables are so hard and stiff that they fracture the cable supports very quickly. Trying to find a cable that is more flexible is the answer. FIRST LINE (FKB 1003 ) cables seem reasonable. They do drop links and suspension joints etc.
Cheers.
G.

[kiwi]

Geoffrey thats interesting and valuable information there. Something I think many of us would not give a second thought to.