I think i need the following parts.
1) The nest of rubber pipes that run from the lhm reservoir. UNLESS there is some compound that can be used to repair a small split in one of the larger rubber pipes running to the regulator area.
lhm seems soften/dissolve most conventional rubber repair compounds.
I made a temporary repair by wrapping heat shrink tubing around the split and tying it up with cable ties, it seems to work for now, mostly, and the car passed its mot.
2) The crossways link that connects one of the gear change rods into the engine. The nylon ball joint seems to have disapeared/worn away. Again temporary fix done using cable ties.
3) I believe a kit is available for renewing the timing belt pulley bearings, and the water pump.
Where can I get one?
Can this job be done with the engine in situ, or must it come out of the car?
I replaced the timing belt some years ago, on a hot summers day. I was utterly exhausted at the end of it all. I recall access to the belt tensioner was very difficult, although not impossible. There is only a couple of inches or so clearance between the side of the car body and the engine.
Thanks, Jim.
bits needed
bits needed
Regards Jim
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Re: bits needed
I got my timing belt kit from Malcolm Lockwood. Ordered the water pump on Ebay I think.
It can be done in-situ, but as you recall, access is very tight! With the top mount undone, you can at least use a jack to alter the position of the engine in the bay to improve access, but it's still not a joyous job.
It can be done in-situ, but as you recall, access is very tight! With the top mount undone, you can at least use a jack to alter the position of the engine in the bay to improve access, but it's still not a joyous job.
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Re: bits needed
yes not a pleasant job but certainly do-able, i got a quality belt kit with tensioners from GSF about £100 prob best to change water pump at same time, removing the top engine mount will allow a little more room, i also put a block of wood between engine and bulkhead to move it forward a bit more, be careful of the radiator tho, a short 3/8 extension bar and ratchet will help to hold the tensioner, when timing up u will need to fit the belt on cam then the fuel pump then the bottom pulley with no slack, u may need to slightly turn the fuel pump pulley to take out the slack, some 8mm thread bolts will be needed 2 on the cam 2 on the pump and also u will need to lock the flywheel thru the hole under the starter motor behind the flywheel, i use a drill bit for this think 7mm, be prepared for some cursing and grazed knuckles. a flywheel locking tool for PSA diesel engines is available and a very useful bit of kit for a few quid it bolts to the bell housing and makes undoing the bottom pulley a lot easier u will have to remove the bottom inspection cover to fit it, turn engine over slowly by hand once its all fitted 2 full revolutions and re check belt tension before starting up, first time i did mine it was a tooth out it did run but very clattery and no damage caused, check check and triple check your timing is correct, allow a couple of hours for this job good luck.
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Re: bits needed
Changing the water pump is actually quite easy. If you're doing the job in your garage, do drain the coolant before you drive the car in to save a lot of mess! I didn't want to run the engine very long at all with no coolant in it, so I ran the car to get it on full height with the bottom hose clip already loose, then engine off, hose off, lots of water over the driveway, then drive into garage.
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Re: bits needed
Or 6 hours if you do everything slowly and methodically cleaning every component as you go along.rutter123 wrote: allow a couple of hours for this job good luck.
Kevan
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