Brake Compensator Valve LHM Leak

[Brian]

Hi Folks,

I have a leak from the bottom leak back return of the BCV on my Tizzy D, it was difficult to locate.

The car is up on ramps, and I have syphoned most of the LHM from the reservoir, as it started to rain, so I retired for a cup of tea.

Has any one worked on this valve with the engine insitu, if so I would appreciate any tips in order to repair the leak.



View in Mirror



General view

Thanks in advance.

[themildbunch]

MM, tricky access on the TD - the upper return hose leaked badly on mine some years ago and it was cut down and a cable tie used as access for anything else was tricky... this fix has held leak free so far.

The engine could be pulled forward with the mounts removed to make access easier.

Good luck

[citronut]

i usually un/bolt the dosure vavle from the bulkhead, then you can move it away and gently tilt it upwards to give better access,

regards malcolm

[BX Bandit]

A common problem. You try to tighten the clip but I found it impossible. Basically you a steel pipe with a bulbous/flared end. If you can find a small jubilee clip and a suitably sized inch length of hose (o.d. To match jubilee clip, I.d. To match o.d. of rubber tube) then that will work well.

[Brian]

Well, I made up an extension with a threaded rod, and attached a small grinding wheel on the end, this allowed me to slowly and carefully, grind off the existing split pin type clamp, and remove it together with the short outer rubber tube.

The tube is fixed solidly on the stub, and no matter how I pulled/twisted it would not budge.
Just lack of room down there, could not get any real pressure on it.

Then I gave up.

Will continue today, weather permitting, and remove the valve as Malcolm suggests.


Thanks for all the info folks, appreciated.

[Jaba]

I did this very job on my estate in 2006.I enjoyed the challenge !
I managed from underneath the car to remove the old hose. I think I used a very long screwdriver as a sort of chisel to cut the hose to enable it to be prised off from above.
I then prestretched a new piece of hose (using a spare doseur for testing) to be fitted from above having removed the fixing bolts to twist the doseur to improve access I found it better to refit the bolts after having got the hose started so that sufficient force could be applied to push it on fully with a lot of difficulty. I then used a tiny hose clip with a 4 or 5mm tightening nut. I clamped it up from underneath with a 1/4 socket and long extension.
I then made a joint up near the reservoir. It has been fine ever since.
Good luck Brian.

[rutter123]

you will need the fingers of a wizard to access this, prob best to remove top engine mount and tilt engine forward, this will give you just enough room to get in and pull the old pipe off and refit a new bit with a jubilee clip or sprung wire clip, think i used a piece of 5 or 6mm bore fuel pipe about 3 inches long, then push the plastic pipe in as far as it will go. seems to be a permanent cure for many.

[Brian]

Update, just to confirm the leak in question is the lower one, the upper has been repaired before and was a doddle compared to the bottom one.

Well, all completed and seems leak free at the moment, will try a longer drive today.

In the end I managed to complete the repair without moving the valve or engine.

I had to select a rubber tube that just slipped over the bulge in the stub, modify the screw on the new cilp by welding a long bolt onto it (actually it was a 3.5 mm 8mm connector), so as to get 1/4" socket to tighten.
Then another join to the existing pipe, now accessible on the bulkhead.

Yippee ...

[Brian]

This landed on the door mat on fathers day.

I though it was spot on and appropriate, I had to share.